Resurfacing Brake Rotors
Dec 10, 2006, 02:22 PM
#91
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I'm not entirely convinced heat is the only cause here, I'm inclined to think it's pad material unevenly distributed on the rotor surface.
If you are correct, some sort of air management would be the solution. I haven't tried any yet but perhaps I should.
If you are correct, some sort of air management would be the solution. I haven't tried any yet but perhaps I should.
Mar 20, 2007, 07:12 PM
#93
I bought one of the earliest 03 evos and have been frustrated with this problem like everyone in this thread since the car had only a few thousand miles on it. Even when I first bought the car, I properly bedded the original brakes, always hand torque the wheels, dry the brakes after washing etc.... I have tried Hawk HPS pads, which didn't help and recently, changed the front rotors to Racing Brake 2 pc slotted rotors and Ferodo DS 2500 pads front and rear. Going on the supposition that the rears were less of an issue, I left the rear rotors alone. Felt great for about 5,000 miles but now, the shimmy has come back.
I have not heard any success stories here yet. Should I change the rear rotors (car has 34,000 miles), resurface the rotors, sell the car? This is a very annoying issue to me. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks.
I have not heard any success stories here yet. Should I change the rear rotors (car has 34,000 miles), resurface the rotors, sell the car? This is a very annoying issue to me. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks.
Apr 6, 2007, 06:26 PM
#94
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wow looks like i'm in for a bumpy ride. Bout 4 or 5 mnths ago i notice the shimmy on the steering wheel, at my next oil change i asked the tech to check it out ..... guess what warpped rotors. I know i need new pads too. So they quoted me 900 for resurfacing and new pads.... thats insane. So i ordered hawk hps bout 180 for front and rear (good deal) and i was thinking bout just putting the pads on and thats it. I really havent felt the shimmy lately maybe cause i havent really done a hard stop from 80mph recently. I'm gonna check later do a lil hard break see if it vibrates still. If it does should i resurface the rotors??????
Apr 6, 2007, 06:58 PM
#95
It seems that you shouldn't keep resurfacing them. Despite my attempts with multiple pads and two different rotors, the ultimate problem is one of pad transfer. I had a long talk with Racing Brake who make my rotors and he said the deposits can be removed with a can of brake kleen and steel wool. I am going to do that soon and then I bought a set of THEIR pads (now my fourth type) to see if I have any better luck.
-John
PS- If you want a set of hawk HPS pads, I have a set of all pads front and back, they look like they have hardly any wear on them (actually about 7,000 street miles, no track, maybe a few auto-xs). You can have them for half price of whatever the best price you can find is. Let me know.
-John
PS- If you want a set of hawk HPS pads, I have a set of all pads front and back, they look like they have hardly any wear on them (actually about 7,000 street miles, no track, maybe a few auto-xs). You can have them for half price of whatever the best price you can find is. Let me know.
Apr 26, 2007, 10:30 PM
#97
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How do I know it is time to resurface my rotors? I have 49k miles on the 03. I have the 3rd pads on now, which is ferodo 2500. I track the cars about 10 times already now. I can only feel light grooves on the rotors.
May 6, 2007, 07:31 PM
#98
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mitsubishi brakes
i ve had my evo since 05 right out the showroom.i ve only experienced brake rotor pulsation once. the remedy was to replace the rotors and pads.the rotors were purchased from ebay (drilled and slotted). i then purchased hawk pads and have never had a problem EVER since. i drive my car very hard and i brutalize my brakes. the main thing is proper heat release from the rotor which the stock rotors don t do.
May 7, 2007, 02:38 AM
#99
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Normally, I'd advocate having the rotors turned each time you replace your pads but with these brakes I'm wondering if that's such a good idea. I'm thinking that in our case, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
I'm under the impression that what evolcomes says is correct. I have pretty much the same setup he does and, while it's only been a few thousand miles, so far no problems.
May 23, 2007, 03:54 PM
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Since I am constantly reading posts where this question is asked I thought I would make a post devoted to it.
DO NOT resurface brake rotors just because you are replacing the pads. There is absolutely no reason. You shorten the rotor life, make it thinner so it does not hand the heat as well and spend money you should not be spending.
Almost every auto manufacturer has now come out and confimed that all of thier dealers should not be resurfacing rotors when brakes are done. It is only done to make money for the dealer.
Reasons for a rotor to be resurfaced.
1. Parallelism. The rotor is not true as it relates to the hub when it is on the vehicle. This is why they all recommend on car resurfacing.
2. Rotor scoring due to poor pad formulation, etc. Even then, GM's recommendation is to check the depth with a penny and if you can still see the top of Lincolns head then they are okay (believe it or not!)
If you would like to remove old pad transfer material from a rotor surface then you can use a 120 grit sandpaper to scuff up the surface. Excess pad transfer buildup can be removed without resurfacing. Many times it can be done by rebedding the pads. Roll-loc discs is also an option to clean up the surface of a rotor for pad transfer but even then I would go with a red (aluminum) disk, browns are just a bit to heavy.
I can honestly say that in the last 15 years I have never resurfaced a rotor on any of my 7 or so cars from all different manufacturers. Reason? Wheels should always be torqued with a torque wrench with no exceptions. I worked in a dealership for years and NO I didn't use one on customer cars because A) thatisn't the fast way when your flat rate B) If they start to pulsate I can just cut or replace them later (not my money but I make money doing it)
That is just the way it is. Don't think for a second that wheels get properly torqued at a dealership. Torque sticks only worked in a controlled situation in which the impact gun only puts out 250 ft lbs of torque. I've seen sticks broken by Impact guns because they are capable of a lot more then 250!
If you must have the wheels removed by a delaer or anyshop for that matter, request they use a torque wrench to reinstall the lugs and then when you get home, loosen all the lugs and retorque anyway.
DO NOT resurface brake rotors just because you are replacing the pads. There is absolutely no reason. You shorten the rotor life, make it thinner so it does not hand the heat as well and spend money you should not be spending.
Almost every auto manufacturer has now come out and confimed that all of thier dealers should not be resurfacing rotors when brakes are done. It is only done to make money for the dealer.
Reasons for a rotor to be resurfaced.
1. Parallelism. The rotor is not true as it relates to the hub when it is on the vehicle. This is why they all recommend on car resurfacing.
2. Rotor scoring due to poor pad formulation, etc. Even then, GM's recommendation is to check the depth with a penny and if you can still see the top of Lincolns head then they are okay (believe it or not!)
If you would like to remove old pad transfer material from a rotor surface then you can use a 120 grit sandpaper to scuff up the surface. Excess pad transfer buildup can be removed without resurfacing. Many times it can be done by rebedding the pads. Roll-loc discs is also an option to clean up the surface of a rotor for pad transfer but even then I would go with a red (aluminum) disk, browns are just a bit to heavy.
I can honestly say that in the last 15 years I have never resurfaced a rotor on any of my 7 or so cars from all different manufacturers. Reason? Wheels should always be torqued with a torque wrench with no exceptions. I worked in a dealership for years and NO I didn't use one on customer cars because A) thatisn't the fast way when your flat rate B) If they start to pulsate I can just cut or replace them later (not my money but I make money doing it)
That is just the way it is. Don't think for a second that wheels get properly torqued at a dealership. Torque sticks only worked in a controlled situation in which the impact gun only puts out 250 ft lbs of torque. I've seen sticks broken by Impact guns because they are capable of a lot more then 250!
If you must have the wheels removed by a delaer or anyshop for that matter, request they use a torque wrench to reinstall the lugs and then when you get home, loosen all the lugs and retorque anyway.
PAGID Instructions for race pad bedding
Basic bedding in
5-8 stops with light to medium brake pressure from approximately 90 MPH to 65 MPH. Distance between each brake stop approximately 300 to 400 yards. The pads should not reach temperatures above 300 - 400°C (550 - 750°F) during bedding in. No dragging!
Blocking of the air ducts might be helpful to reach appropriate temperatures quicker.
Immediately after basic bedding in at high speed
One stop with medium to heavy brake pressure, without allowing brakes to lock from approximately 110 MPH to approximately 65 MPH. Recovery stops with light brake pressure 3-4 times. Repeat the high speed stops, including recovery stops, 2-3 times. Allow a cooling-off distance of approximately 500 yards between high speed stops.
Brake disks
PAGID brake pad material can be used either on solid, grooved or cross-drilled discs
Mounting new pads on used discs
Edges of pad surface should be filed roughly 45° to ensure that the pad carries fully and evenly and is not touching the edge of the disc. Do not use discs, which are pre-bedded, or have been used with friction material other than PAGID.
Jun 4, 2007, 03:16 PM
#101
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im so sick of my steering wheel shake that im about to take off my brembos, throw them in the ocean, and get like 4 different drum brake setups on each corner to keep the brembo performance without the headache!
H E L P
H E L P
Jun 6, 2007, 08:48 AM
#102
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05 EVO VII. It is definitely how you drive. I am still on my stock Brembo pads and rotors with 50000+ miles. Taking it in this weekend to replace pads with Ferodos DS2500. I only flet pulsation a few times. But other than that they have been great. The deal quoted me $330 to install and resurface. Hopefully it will have another 50
Jun 21, 2007, 03:31 PM
#103
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i dont understand why certain cars have it. I drive my car hard, they have gotten hott but always with a proper cooldown. My buddy is equally hard on them, sits at stoplights with his foot buried on the pedal, and has never had a problem. i have had my problem since 6k and now i have 25k on it.
why do some cars have it, and some don't?
i dont understand, and i am extremely frusterated.
i have tried re-bedding, and it helped a little but it came right back. i cant rebed them right now because my pads are shot, but once i get my new pads in i am going to absolutely rape them in the the bedding process. 90-10 as hard as possible without ABS, and if i have to i'll do it 30 times. I'm pretty mechanically inclided and understand the uneven deposits theroy, im just confused on why some cars have it, and some dont.
I A M S O F R U S T R A T E D S O M E O N E P L E A S E H E L P M E.
why do some cars have it, and some don't?
i dont understand, and i am extremely frusterated.
i have tried re-bedding, and it helped a little but it came right back. i cant rebed them right now because my pads are shot, but once i get my new pads in i am going to absolutely rape them in the the bedding process. 90-10 as hard as possible without ABS, and if i have to i'll do it 30 times. I'm pretty mechanically inclided and understand the uneven deposits theroy, im just confused on why some cars have it, and some dont.
I A M S O F R U S T R A T E D S O M E O N E P L E A S E H E L P M E.
Jun 24, 2007, 03:41 AM
#104
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i dont understand why certain cars have it. I drive my car hard, they have gotten hott but always with a proper cooldown. My buddy is equally hard on them, sits at stoplights with his foot buried on the pedal, and has never had a problem. i have had my problem since 6k and now i have 25k on it.
why do some cars have it, and some don't?
i dont understand, and i am extremely frusterated.
why do some cars have it, and some don't?
i dont understand, and i am extremely frusterated.
We must consider mainly 2 points to inspect this judder(or shimmy) issue.
1)run-out of disc rotors(especially front rotors)
2)run-out of hub bearing
I assume that 2) will be coveraged to some extent by replacing of disc rotors, because of new genuine rotor has less than 0.02mm of run-out. But no way to continue the correct value for ever. This is the main reason of piece-to-piece differences. First of all, you should check hub-bearing run-out, we should not replace rotors&pads easily without checking of it...
Last edited by pokopokobanzai; Jun 24, 2007 at 03:44 AM.
