Centre diff or gearbox busted?!?
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Centre diff or gearbox busted?!?
I seriously need some help, let me explain:
I picked my car up today only to return it after about 3 miles driving. What happened was that as I was driving after acceöerating hard and coming off the throttle, i.e. slowing down a little bit, there's a very loud metallic rattle with the whole car vibrating. This didn't happen all the time, but three times in about 10 minutes of driving. The weird thing was that the vibrations continued for about 3 seconds although the car was stopped with clutch disengaged. The sound is very loud, what could it be? Maybe the clutch? The reason why I think it could be either the centre diff or gearbox is that the garage changed both oils right before it happened, is there something that should be checked or done when changing the oils? Or could it be the AYC, haven't changed the oil in that for about 11k miles, but the vibrations definetely came from the centre diff-gearbox block.... This might be very bad I suspect........
I picked my car up today only to return it after about 3 miles driving. What happened was that as I was driving after acceöerating hard and coming off the throttle, i.e. slowing down a little bit, there's a very loud metallic rattle with the whole car vibrating. This didn't happen all the time, but three times in about 10 minutes of driving. The weird thing was that the vibrations continued for about 3 seconds although the car was stopped with clutch disengaged. The sound is very loud, what could it be? Maybe the clutch? The reason why I think it could be either the centre diff or gearbox is that the garage changed both oils right before it happened, is there something that should be checked or done when changing the oils? Or could it be the AYC, haven't changed the oil in that for about 11k miles, but the vibrations definetely came from the centre diff-gearbox block.... This might be very bad I suspect........
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Oh my God!
Just logged onto here just to hear about that...
How does the gearbox feel? As usual? I guess because you didnt say otherwise. In that case, it could be the clutch. Change it together with the flywheel.
What happens when you go with full weight on one side through a corner? Does it rattle on one side and not the other? In that case it could be a transmission arm. This happened to Dario 2 days ago. He changed it and now it's fine. They also checked out his front diff, replaced a few discs in it (used) but it was fine.
Given your mileage I would think it is the clutch.
Just logged onto here just to hear about that...
How does the gearbox feel? As usual? I guess because you didnt say otherwise. In that case, it could be the clutch. Change it together with the flywheel.
What happens when you go with full weight on one side through a corner? Does it rattle on one side and not the other? In that case it could be a transmission arm. This happened to Dario 2 days ago. He changed it and now it's fine. They also checked out his front diff, replaced a few discs in it (used) but it was fine.
Given your mileage I would think it is the clutch.
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Yep, we start to think it's the clutch too, cause the vibrations continued as the car was standing still with a disengaged clutch, but then stopped. I'm still quite dubious about that as it doesn't happen all the time though... The guy at the garage said he cained the car after I returned it and said he couldn't hear anything.... What oil goes into the centre diff? He was told by Mitsu the same as in the gearbox 75W/90 fully synthetic. Or maybe the propeller shaft? The rattling started when driving strait and coming of load, i.e. when I slowed down for a red light. The AYC could be an option too, cause before the noise started it engaged quite hard as it was raining and I drifted a little bit
Last edited by Michaelk; Nov 29, 2001 at 08:44 AM.
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Don't worry, the problem was found!! Seems that someone,(probably the TÜV man) pushed against the exhaust so hard that the mounts bent a little bit, meaning that at certain revs, the exhaust hit the propeller shaft. We bent it right, just drove my car for 30 minutes, no problem!! The funniest thing of all is that the TÜV man gave my car EURO-2 G norm for the cat!! Now we thought that we'd need to use a few tricks to make the car pass the norm, but it made it by itself, don't ask how.... Anyway, I'm very happy now!!
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Yep, just going to insure the sucker first and get it registered Also need to find someone who can help me with the mapping. I think my shopping list looks as follows:
1. GEMS + new fuel pump (ASAP)
2. AP organic clutch (Q1)
3. Movit brakes front (Q1/Q2 '02) + OZ Superleggeras + Yokos
4. Movit brakes rear (Q2/Q3 '02) not sure on this one though
5. uprated internals (???)
6. New Exhaust (Fujitsubo Titanium) (???)
7. New turbo + manifold (prob. HKS 2835 with Bozz Speed mani) (???)
1.-2. 100% sure
3. 90%
4.-7. 50%
Now was this an organised posting or what
1. GEMS + new fuel pump (ASAP)
2. AP organic clutch (Q1)
3. Movit brakes front (Q1/Q2 '02) + OZ Superleggeras + Yokos
4. Movit brakes rear (Q2/Q3 '02) not sure on this one though
5. uprated internals (???)
6. New Exhaust (Fujitsubo Titanium) (???)
7. New turbo + manifold (prob. HKS 2835 with Bozz Speed mani) (???)
1.-2. 100% sure
3. 90%
4.-7. 50%
Now was this an organised posting or what
#9
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Michael, I just love the way you move your lips when you laugh!
I am getting a JUN light flywheel (USD 420) and a CUSCO sinle plate CARBON clutch. Should enable to clutch in pretty high (5,000 rpms) given that the AP is already better and this one is even better, but only USD 50 more than AP. SHould have it for X-mas. will let you know how it is. Costs USD 280.
I am getting a JUN light flywheel (USD 420) and a CUSCO sinle plate CARBON clutch. Should enable to clutch in pretty high (5,000 rpms) given that the AP is already better and this one is even better, but only USD 50 more than AP. SHould have it for X-mas. will let you know how it is. Costs USD 280.
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Now THAT sounds interesting.... Carbon, hmmm, could be a biatch to drive I think. I don't think I'll get a lighter flywheel just yet, does the Cusco clutch work with the standard flywheel? I think I'll stick to AP though. AP will be about 350 pounds I think, so more expensive.
#11
Mike....why do you assume carbon=undrivable? I drove one of the Mine's demo cars with a carbon clutch and it was smooth as anything! The torque rating is way up there with some of the best triples.
Go for the flywheel!! Since you are having the clutch done it makes sense....whats the saying...killing 2 birds with 1 stone....
Try kakimoto or amuse for a good titanium exhaust for the EVO. fujitsubo is really good for the GTR(bloody expensive too!!) but not so for evos...
Go for the flywheel!! Since you are having the clutch done it makes sense....whats the saying...killing 2 birds with 1 stone....
Try kakimoto or amuse for a good titanium exhaust for the EVO. fujitsubo is really good for the GTR(bloody expensive too!!) but not so for evos...
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