Has anyone seen anything like this before? I'm using Ferodo DS2500s.

 

Yep, this is pretty common on the evo's and certain pads are worse than others.

 

just for the info, how long have the f 2500s been on?
how hot do you think you got the rotors?
did you hold the pedal down when the brakes were hot?

I'm interested in the information, and from your response a brighter bulb might have an answer.

 

I put the pads on about 2-3 weeks before a track day at Mid-Ohio. I had no issues with them before the track day. How hot did they get? I'm not sure about a number, but I'd say they got fairly hot. It was my first track day, so I wasn't as hard on them as a seasoned track vet would have been. I am aware of the problem of holding the brake on a stopped car with hot rotors/pads. I was easy on the brakes on the cool down lap and coasted to a stop in the paddock(parked in 1st gear with no E-brake).

I don't have that much steering wheel shake when braking. Am I being overly concerned?

 

I think your problems are all diagnosed in this last post. You shouldn't be using the 2500s on the track. Switch up to the 3000s. Just because it was your first track day doesn't mean you weren't hard on the brakes. Some first timers could be harder on the brakes then experienced people...a lot of uneccesary dragging usually occurs (habits from the street).
I got horrid pad transfer my first time out, but that was with the OEM pads. I bet it could still happen with other pads designed for the street. It sounds like you've got a good cool down method, but when the pads get too hot, they get too hot.
Get those rotors turned put your 2500s back on and next time out go with a more track duty pad. You'll be alright.

 

Is turning the only solution? I've been told that having them turned is not good for performance or rotor life. Is there another method?

The rears look fine. Should I worry about them?

As easy as they are to change, I'll definately be swapping in track pads when I swap in my track rubber/rims.

 

Your discs are fine - pad transfer is a good thing (pad deposits work into the discs to create a better friction bed for the pad to bite on). It is normal to see those spots. As long as you dont have the "pulsing" feeling you are fine.

 

2500's work fine on the track provided that you cool them well. Look into a set of brake cooling guides to help. 3000's are better for track but are more abrasive to the disc.

side note: I have a track only set of floating 2 piece discs that will be ready for sale by the time you read this

 

ogvw, PM me about the rotors. I may be interested.

I've been using 2500's on the track all year (well 3 days so far, 2 more coming up). I've been getting progressively more aggressive with my braking, and at the last event I was going in pretty late on the brakes. Most every session I would have smoke coming from the pads(?) when I pulled in, and after the day was over there was noticeable pad transfer on the rotors. I had very little shake because of it, but the pedal did feel 'gritty' (for lack of a better word) for most of the trip home. The pedal feel is now fine and there is no shaking. The 2500's are good, but I may switch up to the 3000's next year just to try them out.

On the plus side, I don't think you can turn the Brembos brown with the 2500's. I've been trying...

 

IMHO, the DS2500s are fine. Easy use of the brakes for an extended period may lead to the removal of the transfer layer (the thin film on the rotor that is the by-product of a properly bedded-in pad/disc) on the discs by the abrasive action of the pads. When we are going to track our Evo, which sees easy brake use between track events, a partial re-bedding process helps prevent uneven pick up/pad material transfer.

 

man i got some pulsing alright, how the hell am i supposed to get rid of this pulsing? This is the second time I've had it, got the rotors resurfaced once, which i think was overkill. Someone help me out here haha

 

Before you get the rotors resurfaced, check out this thread by Timzcat:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=81487

 

That thread is extremely useful if one is only swapping pads, however, it unfortunately doesn't apply when dealing with uneven pad deposits on a rotor's surface from a set of race pads. Therefore, rigorous scrubbing with garnet paper or resurfacing may be required to prevent the high spots from becoming hot spots--which can change the metallurgy of the rotor, thus affecting the brakes effectiveness.

Note: if you do decide to resurface the rotors, don't forget to re-bed the pads, and remember ro re-bed--to maintain a proper transfer layer--before your next event.