Factory Boost Control VS upgraded boost assembly (pill)
I really wish the aftermarket would do a "pill assembly and drop in filter" map... I don't want to turn my X into a rice rocket with exhaust and downpipes... I just want the car to be tuned the way it SHOULD have come from the factory while keeping it as stock as possible. (Make it a USDM FQ360
)
If such a map exists for the accessport will someone PLEASE direct me to it. And if it doesn't will someone out there PLEASE make one!
If such a map exists for the accessport will someone PLEASE direct me to it. And if it doesn't will someone out there PLEASE make one!
I really wish the aftermarket would do a "pill assembly and drop in filter" map... I don't want to turn my X into a rice rocket with exhaust and downpipes... I just want the car to be tuned the way it SHOULD have come from the factory while keeping it as stock as possible. (Make it a USDM FQ360
)
If such a map exists for the accessport will someone PLEASE direct me to it. And if it doesn't will someone out there PLEASE make one!
If such a map exists for the accessport will someone PLEASE direct me to it. And if it doesn't will someone out there PLEASE make one!
flash
I don't think much people will be using accessport since the Ecuflash is now out for the Evo X.
About the wgdc, why not do a test with just increasing the gate pressure from 11 to 15 or so psi?
About the wgdc, why not do a test with just increasing the gate pressure from 11 to 15 or so psi?
Last edited by awddyno; Feb 4, 2009 at 11:05 AM.
Hey brian,
Care to share the BDEL settings that you used for your pill? If not, could you share the rough percent increase in BDEL settings that you used for the boost that was used?
Thanks
Care to share the BDEL settings that you used for your pill? If not, could you share the rough percent increase in BDEL settings that you used for the boost that was used?
Thanks
1,000x easier than installing it on a 8/9. 
All you need are:
short needle nose pliers
4-5" long phillips screwdriver or punch
Two hands
I'll write up a more informative how-to once I am back in town.
10mins tops. It's so easy I don't even charge to install it.

All you need are:
short needle nose pliers
4-5" long phillips screwdriver or punch
Two hands
I'll write up a more informative how-to once I am back in town.
10mins tops. It's so easy I don't even charge to install it.
im confused on this boost pill. so for my cobb AP stage 2 i had to take a pill out. is this the same pill u guys replace? i just want to know which pill i need to replace, because i want to buy one and dont know which pill to swap out?
We upgrade (replace) the pressure side pill, which is the pill in the hose off the T that goes to the compressor housing outlet (black pipe). We keep the other OEM pills intact.
We upgrade (replace) the pressure side pill, which is the pill in the hose off the T that goes to the compressor housing outlet (black pipe). We keep the other OEM pills intact.
Hello Bryan,
Once when i was working on a rally IX group N, i was concerned about the destruction of the turbos in the rally environment - not from ALS - (here in Romania all the rally cars are using a 0.3 mm restrictor on the turbo side and that's all).
So i tested the metal pop-off valve.
And i made a rig to see at what pressure the pop-off is cracking open. So i found out that at exactly 1.5 bars, the pop off is opening.
The plastic one is opening at 1.2 bars.
So i changed that with a pop-off valve from HJS England which has a screw to set the preload. I set it up to crack open at 1.7 bars and the car had a better top-end and it kept more pressure after the peak.
After that i tried to incorporate this on a street car but where are some downside problems. When you drive the car normally, the car is stuttering because of the opening and closing very rapidly of the pop-off. So after 4 types of pop-off, i didn't found one that has the same neutral comportament like the oem one.
Maybe when you have time, you can check this on your dyno to see if there are some improvements of power and boost when using different pop-off.
Once when i was working on a rally IX group N, i was concerned about the destruction of the turbos in the rally environment - not from ALS - (here in Romania all the rally cars are using a 0.3 mm restrictor on the turbo side and that's all).
So i tested the metal pop-off valve.
And i made a rig to see at what pressure the pop-off is cracking open. So i found out that at exactly 1.5 bars, the pop off is opening.
The plastic one is opening at 1.2 bars.
So i changed that with a pop-off valve from HJS England which has a screw to set the preload. I set it up to crack open at 1.7 bars and the car had a better top-end and it kept more pressure after the peak.
After that i tried to incorporate this on a street car but where are some downside problems. When you drive the car normally, the car is stuttering because of the opening and closing very rapidly of the pop-off. So after 4 types of pop-off, i didn't found one that has the same neutral comportament like the oem one.
Maybe when you have time, you can check this on your dyno to see if there are some improvements of power and boost when using different pop-off.






