AVIC-D3 on EVO-X
Thanks Chris for the in depth info of options this unit has.
Ipod cable is $20 bucks and its a real ipod cable,I cant believe Mitsu can
call their $50 cable an Ipod cable, when you can get that same rca wire at walmart for 5 bucks. 1 more thing,the $200 factory rebate is only good until April 30.
For juntion and a few others;
Some of your Negatives shouldn't be a negative at all. I think you and many people is mislead by Mitsu's claim of 650watt system. Maybe its 650 MAX but it's not RMS power for sure, I dear any Mitsu rep to come here and discredit my claim. Who knows what ohm load they are claiming these numbers at. It could be 2 ohm load with a max of 650. I'm not going say im some kind of master when it comes to these thing, but I was a MECP certified Installer for 3 years back in the days, So I can say I do know a little about these things.
If you ever uninstalled the OEM Amp and picked it up, and look at the wires they used, see what components is inside the amp, and what it weight. You can tell this is not a good amp. I would say the OEM amp is 100-150watt rms max. And the way it looks, the OEM amp is split into 7 channel, meaning each channel has very little power,and most is going to the Sub woofer.
Its almost like Sony claiming their Explode line of amp 1200watt and cost only $150 and that amp is only really 200watt rms @ 4 ohm load.
Listen to someone's aftermarket Head unit and hear it for yourself. Keeping you OEM speakers stocks. Just by changing out the head unit with an aftermarket one, using just the speaker output from the aftermarket head unit,(in my case avic-d3 50wattx4 or 22wattx4 RMS) Its sound 2x louder and better sound quality then the OEM Headunit+ OEM AMP, This leads me to believe the Factory speaker is not all that bad. The OEM Amp is just crap.
Ipod cable is $20 bucks and its a real ipod cable,I cant believe Mitsu can
call their $50 cable an Ipod cable, when you can get that same rca wire at walmart for 5 bucks. 1 more thing,the $200 factory rebate is only good until April 30.
For juntion and a few others;
Some of your Negatives shouldn't be a negative at all. I think you and many people is mislead by Mitsu's claim of 650watt system. Maybe its 650 MAX but it's not RMS power for sure, I dear any Mitsu rep to come here and discredit my claim. Who knows what ohm load they are claiming these numbers at. It could be 2 ohm load with a max of 650. I'm not going say im some kind of master when it comes to these thing, but I was a MECP certified Installer for 3 years back in the days, So I can say I do know a little about these things.
If you ever uninstalled the OEM Amp and picked it up, and look at the wires they used, see what components is inside the amp, and what it weight. You can tell this is not a good amp. I would say the OEM amp is 100-150watt rms max. And the way it looks, the OEM amp is split into 7 channel, meaning each channel has very little power,and most is going to the Sub woofer.
Its almost like Sony claiming their Explode line of amp 1200watt and cost only $150 and that amp is only really 200watt rms @ 4 ohm load.
Listen to someone's aftermarket Head unit and hear it for yourself. Keeping you OEM speakers stocks. Just by changing out the head unit with an aftermarket one, using just the speaker output from the aftermarket head unit,(in my case avic-d3 50wattx4 or 22wattx4 RMS) Its sound 2x louder and better sound quality then the OEM Headunit+ OEM AMP, This leads me to believe the Factory speaker is not all that bad. The OEM Amp is just crap.
To be clear.
This thread could have been misleading initially to people that think the system, as is, is satisfactory and only want a NAV to compliment it. They would be best served to wait for a better wiring harness to make use of the system as it stands rather than disabling it and running wires to 4 speakers, losing the amp and sub in the process.
So for those people the negatives would in fact be negatives.
IMHO the shiny black surface of the Pioneer looks cheap. I am not Pioneer fan by any means either. To each their own.
If you wanted to run the 4 speakers from the head unit and eventually replace the amp then that is different.
I do think the former would outweigh the latter in this case.
This thread could have been misleading initially to people that think the system, as is, is satisfactory and only want a NAV to compliment it. They would be best served to wait for a better wiring harness to make use of the system as it stands rather than disabling it and running wires to 4 speakers, losing the amp and sub in the process.
So for those people the negatives would in fact be negatives.
IMHO the shiny black surface of the Pioneer looks cheap. I am not Pioneer fan by any means either. To each their own.
If you wanted to run the 4 speakers from the head unit and eventually replace the amp then that is different.
I do think the former would outweigh the latter in this case.
Thanks Chris for the in depth info of options this unit has.
Ipod cable is $20 bucks and its a real ipod cable,I cant believe Mitsu can
call their $50 cable an Ipod cable, when you can get that same rca wire at walmart for 5 bucks. 1 more thing,the $200 factory rebate is only good until April 30.
For juntion and a few others;
Some of your Negatives shouldn't be a negative at all. I think you and many people is mislead by Mitsu's claim of 650watt system. Maybe its 650 MAX but it's not RMS power for sure, I dear any Mitsu rep to come here and discredit my claim. Who knows what ohm load they are claiming these numbers at. It could be 2 ohm load with a max of 650. I'm not going say im some kind of master when it comes to these thing, but I was a MECP certified Installer for 3 years back in the days, So I can say I do know a little about these things.
If you ever uninstalled the OEM Amp and picked it up, and look at the wires they used, see what components is inside the amp, and what it weight. You can tell this is not a good amp. I would say the OEM amp is 100-150watt rms max. And the way it looks, the OEM amp is split into 7 channel, meaning each channel has very little power,and most is going to the Sub woofer.
Its almost like Sony claiming their Explode line of amp 1200watt and cost only $150 and that amp is only really 200watt rms @ 4 ohm load.
Listen to someone's aftermarket Head unit and hear it for yourself. Keeping you OEM speakers stocks. Just by changing out the head unit with an aftermarket one, using just the speaker output from the aftermarket head unit,(in my case avic-d3 50wattx4 or 22wattx4 RMS) Its sound 2x louder and better sound quality then the OEM Headunit+ OEM AMP, This leads me to believe the Factory speaker is not all that bad. The OEM Amp is just crap.
Ipod cable is $20 bucks and its a real ipod cable,I cant believe Mitsu can
call their $50 cable an Ipod cable, when you can get that same rca wire at walmart for 5 bucks. 1 more thing,the $200 factory rebate is only good until April 30.
For juntion and a few others;
Some of your Negatives shouldn't be a negative at all. I think you and many people is mislead by Mitsu's claim of 650watt system. Maybe its 650 MAX but it's not RMS power for sure, I dear any Mitsu rep to come here and discredit my claim. Who knows what ohm load they are claiming these numbers at. It could be 2 ohm load with a max of 650. I'm not going say im some kind of master when it comes to these thing, but I was a MECP certified Installer for 3 years back in the days, So I can say I do know a little about these things.
If you ever uninstalled the OEM Amp and picked it up, and look at the wires they used, see what components is inside the amp, and what it weight. You can tell this is not a good amp. I would say the OEM amp is 100-150watt rms max. And the way it looks, the OEM amp is split into 7 channel, meaning each channel has very little power,and most is going to the Sub woofer.
Its almost like Sony claiming their Explode line of amp 1200watt and cost only $150 and that amp is only really 200watt rms @ 4 ohm load.
Listen to someone's aftermarket Head unit and hear it for yourself. Keeping you OEM speakers stocks. Just by changing out the head unit with an aftermarket one, using just the speaker output from the aftermarket head unit,(in my case avic-d3 50wattx4 or 22wattx4 RMS) Its sound 2x louder and better sound quality then the OEM Headunit+ OEM AMP, This leads me to believe the Factory speaker is not all that bad. The OEM Amp is just crap.
I guess on my last post I wasn’t being very clear on my statements.
I was just trying imply that, Most Aftermarket Deck will make this system sound better not just the avicd-3, but
You must lose the OEM amp to make this happen. The OEM amp is crap, and just by changing in a new unit, but still using
The factory amp won’t do much help. For those people that find the factory sound good enough for them, then swapping of just
The head unit with an Aftermarket one and using a better wiring harness-system if that ever gets made. I dont see this ever will happen anytime soon,
The OEM Amp Use the car's CANbus system for the amp turn on, So for people who is waiting on a solution might be waiting for a very long time.
But for people who want some better sound quality now. Then swapping out the factory amp would be a start, and for even better sound, you will need to swap
Out the OEM speakers, and power it by using a better aftermarket amp,
I was just trying imply that, Most Aftermarket Deck will make this system sound better not just the avicd-3, but
You must lose the OEM amp to make this happen. The OEM amp is crap, and just by changing in a new unit, but still using
The factory amp won’t do much help. For those people that find the factory sound good enough for them, then swapping of just
The head unit with an Aftermarket one and using a better wiring harness-system if that ever gets made. I dont see this ever will happen anytime soon,
The OEM Amp Use the car's CANbus system for the amp turn on, So for people who is waiting on a solution might be waiting for a very long time.
But for people who want some better sound quality now. Then swapping out the factory amp would be a start, and for even better sound, you will need to swap
Out the OEM speakers, and power it by using a better aftermarket amp,
Last edited by thuan; Apr 7, 2008 at 08:23 PM. Reason: added CANbus details
Its the HID light+ Fast key+ Bigger spoiler
Its a fairly good deal if you ask me,
Did you know that the dealership sells the OEM Subwoofer box for $500 alone.
how much do you think it would cost to have a Dealer install+ OEM HID light cost you?
Evolving Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 138
Likes: 1
From: north bay
Very true!
Thanks Chris for the in depth info of options this unit has.
Ipod cable is $20 bucks and its a real ipod cable,I cant believe Mitsu can
call their $50 cable an Ipod cable, when you can get that same rca wire at walmart for 5 bucks. 1 more thing,the $200 factory rebate is only good until April 30.
For juntion and a few others;
Some of your Negatives shouldn't be a negative at all. I think you and many people is mislead by Mitsu's claim of 650watt system. Maybe its 650 MAX but it's not RMS power for sure, I dear any Mitsu rep to come here and discredit my claim. Who knows what ohm load they are claiming these numbers at. It could be 2 ohm load with a max of 650. I'm not going say im some kind of master when it comes to these thing, but I was a MECP certified Installer for 3 years back in the days, So I can say I do know a little about these things.
If you ever uninstalled the OEM Amp and picked it up, and look at the wires they used, see what components is inside the amp, and what it weight. You can tell this is not a good amp. I would say the OEM amp is 100-150watt rms max. And the way it looks, the OEM amp is split into 7 channel, meaning each channel has very little power,and most is going to the Sub woofer.
Its almost like Sony claiming their Explode line of amp 1200watt and cost only $150 and that amp is only really 200watt rms @ 4 ohm load.
Listen to someone's aftermarket Head unit and hear it for yourself. Keeping you OEM speakers stocks. Just by changing out the head unit with an aftermarket one, using just the speaker output from the aftermarket head unit,(in my case avic-d3 50wattx4 or 22wattx4 RMS) Its sound 2x louder and better sound quality then the OEM Headunit+ OEM AMP, This leads me to believe the Factory speaker is not all that bad. The OEM Amp is just crap.
Ipod cable is $20 bucks and its a real ipod cable,I cant believe Mitsu can
call their $50 cable an Ipod cable, when you can get that same rca wire at walmart for 5 bucks. 1 more thing,the $200 factory rebate is only good until April 30.
For juntion and a few others;
Some of your Negatives shouldn't be a negative at all. I think you and many people is mislead by Mitsu's claim of 650watt system. Maybe its 650 MAX but it's not RMS power for sure, I dear any Mitsu rep to come here and discredit my claim. Who knows what ohm load they are claiming these numbers at. It could be 2 ohm load with a max of 650. I'm not going say im some kind of master when it comes to these thing, but I was a MECP certified Installer for 3 years back in the days, So I can say I do know a little about these things.
If you ever uninstalled the OEM Amp and picked it up, and look at the wires they used, see what components is inside the amp, and what it weight. You can tell this is not a good amp. I would say the OEM amp is 100-150watt rms max. And the way it looks, the OEM amp is split into 7 channel, meaning each channel has very little power,and most is going to the Sub woofer.
Its almost like Sony claiming their Explode line of amp 1200watt and cost only $150 and that amp is only really 200watt rms @ 4 ohm load.
Listen to someone's aftermarket Head unit and hear it for yourself. Keeping you OEM speakers stocks. Just by changing out the head unit with an aftermarket one, using just the speaker output from the aftermarket head unit,(in my case avic-d3 50wattx4 or 22wattx4 RMS) Its sound 2x louder and better sound quality then the OEM Headunit+ OEM AMP, This leads me to believe the Factory speaker is not all that bad. The OEM Amp is just crap.
As for the D3, Its working out great, bluetooth work like a charm,
This is my 1st deck with full Ipod/Iphone control, so i can't really compare it to
any other brand, But I think its has to be the best thing about this deck
I can't say much about the Nav. beside its seem to be super accurate.
And I only drive around town, so the Nav. or any other Nav systems is fairly useless to me.
^^ Thanks for the good words guys. I updated a few photo shots
since the last installed, I have added an PDX 4.100 amp to power the Focal K2 Power
Components. Dynamated Trunk ,floor and door, Custom Fiberglass enclose for a JL 12W6 V2.
Re- ran with all Stinger RCA Tripple shield RCA, and Used Monster cable for Power and distribution blocks and fuse.
The Nav isnt the best but it works. I bump it 3 hours a day Loud! and everything seem to still be working just fine.
since the last installed, I have added an PDX 4.100 amp to power the Focal K2 Power
Components. Dynamated Trunk ,floor and door, Custom Fiberglass enclose for a JL 12W6 V2.
Re- ran with all Stinger RCA Tripple shield RCA, and Used Monster cable for Power and distribution blocks and fuse.
The Nav isnt the best but it works. I bump it 3 hours a day Loud! and everything seem to still be working just fine.
Last edited by thuan; Jun 9, 2008 at 11:33 AM.
I learned my lesson with factory sound systems in both of my mustangs (MACH 1000) and the AAS system in the redline. For what they cost from the factory you can get far superior audio equipment for alot less. Yes it want be stock but it will sound better. The factory sytems are usually the lower end stuff that rockford, alpine, bose, kicker, and pioneer make, but they get to charge more since it is already conviently installed.