HAHA, sweet! I am glad you like the speakers. I definitely agree with you and also think the Fosgate amplifier doesn't have the necessary meat to supply the system.

There's no way I am going to run speaker level power to an amp, so I am going to wait until I get the Metra kit, head, and nice amp and do it all at once.

What I have finally settled on in the interim is setting fader front at 7, bass at 2, mid at 1, treble flat, and sub at 2 or 3 depending on the music. I run the volume at 27-30 when I want it decently loud, and its pretty good. I can't wait to upgrade to a good 4 channel amp, rear Focal coax speakers, Alpine or Eclipse HU, and hear how it should really sound. For now, this is lots better than stock

Mrdecibel, thanks for posting, and I'm very glad you like the speakers! Tell me where I can get a good deal on an amp like that. I've ran JL VR speakers in the past and loved them. Just need a nice amp. Maybe we can get a good Evo stereo upgrade path going for everyone.

 

Mrdecibel,Keep us posted on you next upgrade, I really like to see what others are doing.

For me the only thing I have left to do is install my Focal K2 powers and 4 Channel amp to power them,
Im a JL junkie to, But this time around im going to try out
the New Alpine PDX 4.100 class D< been tested by many Car audio Magazine to out
shine the JL/slash series in SQ in the high and mid range. But lost a few points
to JL on the low side.
I do have a 2 yr.Old JL 450/4 that I have sitting around that I will try out allso,
Its just that amp is to big, and i really want to use the stock OEM Amp location. Its only a 10 min swap after you run all the wires,
I'll keep you posted on what the 2 amp sound like SQ wise.

Last thing I will be doing is Dynamat but haven't decided 100%
on what brand to use yet. B-Quiet Ultimate Vs dynamat extreame.
B-Q is 1/2 the price, and some test i read show the B-Q to be better, But the Dynamat sticks better.

Found the review and test
http://www.caraudiomag.com/0607_cae_...er/index2.html

 

I just made another significant improvement to the system. I have the Fronts on Channel 1 and 2 and the subwoofer on 3 and 4 of the JL 300/4. The sub is now able to keep up with the level of the components. I lost the ability to adjust the sub level from the cockpit, but in time that will be covered with a sub level control once the dedicated sub amp is added.

Noize, in regards to speaker level input for the amp, the JL is designed for that and works better than any line converter. I have had my share of head units and I am not convinced that there is a significant difference in quality between the different units. Each head unit will sound different in regards to their baseline settings, but as far as playing between 20HZ and 20kHZ, they are all close. Signal to noise ratio is a bench stat that doesn't relate to what we hear. It dose show qualit and better tolerances, but ultimately we want good sound for the right price. I wanted to keep the stock head unit to keep the inside "simple" and not knowing what was around the corner as far as aftermarket fitment. I guesss only time will tell if the stock unit stays in.

Thuan - Not familiar with B-Quiet in regards to sound deading, but Dynamat extreme is great. Maybe the be quiet can stick better if heated as I have seen other brands do. Heating most adhesives increases tackiness.

 

I'm with you here, but I want to run RCAs instead. I'll get a price on that amp from my local hifi buys. I had Alpine stuff in the past and want something better.

 

JL audio FTW.

 

sick setup

 

two weeks ago I put in a full system (Jl 500/1, (2)13.5w3v2 and Premier 4channel, boston acoustic z6 in all doors and premier 880prs cd player) I still have not completed the box as I need to carpet it. The box is maxed out for the car and the speakers. No trunk space for me. for anyone plans on doing aftermarket subs the trunk, heat shield above muffler and black plastic cover behind the rear headreast all need soundeading. obviously, the sound is vastly improved over stock, with the exception of the rattling which is almost fixed.

Anyone know how to take that black panel off behind the rear seats yet? Im sure after a few peeps get some subs in there, someone will figure it out. hoping someone already has?

 

Mrdecibel, it looks like the stock setup is a 5-channel amp? Possible to replace with a better aftermarket one?

 

The Alpine PDX 5 appears to be a great 5 channel that will fit in place of the stock amp.

 

Which panel are you referring to? The one in car or in trunk? Both are behind the rear seats. The one in the trunk comes off extremely easy. The one in rear deck of car is unknown to me at the moment.

 

those look like vault drinks to me.

 

The stock setup is a 7 channels amp
front tweeters and front woofer has their own channel.
the cross over unit for the front component is build into the oem Amp.

 

The one that covers the battery is easy, I am refering to the one on the interior of the car below the rear windsheild. I think after a few peeps hear how bad it rattles with some clean bass that they will figure it out. I am going to attempt to remove the whole back seat and a pillars this weekend to see if I can get that thing off, I reall hate breaking stuff on a new car. Bound to happen if your the first( sometimes )

 

Similiar setup to what I'll be putting in next week.

880 PRS
4 Boston PRO60's
1 JLW6 wired 2ohms
RF Power1000 5 ch.
Dynomat doors/trunk

Should sound nice!!

 

See original post for updates.