Alpine PDX-1.1000 or JL Audio Slash v2 Series 1000/1v2 for a 13w7?
#16
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If you're gonna check out RE (which are highly regarded), you might wanna check out Fi as well (link), since that company was started by one of the owners of RE. I've been using their 12" SSD sub for a couple years, and it's pretty damn good for a $200 sub. Not very pretty, and lacking above 70Hz, but not bad for one of their cheaper subs. I'd definitely recommend them, and lots of power to feed 'em!
#18
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I plan on getting a JL Audio 13w7 in the recommended JL ported enclosure. My question is, money aside, which amp do you think would do a better job pushing the 13w7, the JL Audio Slash v2 Series 1000/1v2 or the Alpine PDX-1.1000? I would also like to avoid a charging system upgrade like a high duty battery, I know I will probably need a capacitor either way. Do you have experience with either of the amps? Also for those who own a 13w7 or 12w7 how do you like it, lessons learned, and what amp/cap are you using?
What would you get? I am having a crisis of conscience. 3 x 10W6v2, 2 x 12W6v2 or a single 13w7. I don't think i can get 2 13s in my trunk. I would like a mixture of SQ and SPL leaning towards SPL. Price wise I want a single 13w7, the bass-head wants 3 10s. Not having heard any of the subs mentioned I actually don't know which of the three choices would be louder. I assume the 3 10s, but like I said I have never heard these subs so maybe the 13w7 is the way to go?
What would you get? I am having a crisis of conscience. 3 x 10W6v2, 2 x 12W6v2 or a single 13w7. I don't think i can get 2 13s in my trunk. I would like a mixture of SQ and SPL leaning towards SPL. Price wise I want a single 13w7, the bass-head wants 3 10s. Not having heard any of the subs mentioned I actually don't know which of the three choices would be louder. I assume the 3 10s, but like I said I have never heard these subs so maybe the 13w7 is the way to go?
Unless you just have no regard at all for weight, I think you are going to be massively surprised by the X MR weight, plus your intended system in the boot. This is especially true if you're coming from an '02 WRX.
Anyways, my recommendation is keep it moderate and on the dl. I have a pdx-4.150 on the doors and a pdx-1.600 on a 10W6v2 in the trunk. I don't have any dynomat or the like but it rattles like a **** when cranked. The enclosed trunk of the X is not so good for bass sq.
#19
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Diamond's are cheap and ugly?? I ran one of their cheaper M6 12D2 subs for 3-years, and it was a decent trade-off of SQ and SPL and sounded great for a $400 sub (which isn't cheap IMO) -- looked pretty damn nice, too. Unfortunately, it blew only a few days after the 3-year warranty ran out, and although they promised to take care of it, they never did - otherwise, I'd still be recommending their products.
If you're gonna check out RE (which are highly regarded), you might wanna check out Fi as well (link), since that company was started by one of the owners of RE. I've been using their 12" SSD sub for a couple years, and it's pretty damn good for a $200 sub. Not very pretty, and lacking above 70Hz, but not bad for one of their cheaper subs. I'd definitely recommend them, and lots of power to feed 'em!
If you're gonna check out RE (which are highly regarded), you might wanna check out Fi as well (link), since that company was started by one of the owners of RE. I've been using their 12" SSD sub for a couple years, and it's pretty damn good for a $200 sub. Not very pretty, and lacking above 70Hz, but not bad for one of their cheaper subs. I'd definitely recommend them, and lots of power to feed 'em!
#22
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I was just turned on to Diamond back in September and have been impressed with what i seen. A local shop owner here has a CRX with like 12 - 12's in it or something. The car has been redone numerous times and holds numerous world records with all Diamond stuff. The thing is CRAZY!
Like I said I used to be a HUGE fan of JL and for the money still love the DVC W3's. I ran them in numerous cars but I can not justify paying what they want for their W7 stuff when there are better subs out there (IMO) for less money.
JL just hasnt really pushed the envelope with bringing new stuff to the table in quite awhile. It would be nice to see what they did if they would re-engineer their stuff and make it better.
Why would you do that?
Ive never once had the same brand sub & amp setup, and I've had some SIIIIICK stereo setups. Actually I dont know one serious car audio person who has done a system that way.
You mix and match in this case to get the best outcome. Same with headunits, components, coaxials, etc...
#24
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If you're getting a JL sub, why would you consider getting an Alpine amp? The JL amp is made for that sub like peanut butter is made for jelly.... or chocolate, lol
#25
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I had two PDX amps in my Porsche and I really like the sound and I like the fact that they are stackable. I have two other threads open in car audio forums, you are the only one to raise this question/concern. As long as the amp delivers clean power, and delivers the wattage it claims what is the problem with running equipment from two different companies?
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Thanks for the conformation. I was getting ready to worry.
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I have decided along with buying an Alpine PDX 1000 for the subs to also buy an Alpine PDX 4.100 for the fronts and rears. I plan on keeping my stock fronts until I save a bit more money and probably will buy some Boston Pros or Focals, something higher end for SQ. My question is, the shop I went to this weekend recommended that I don't buy a JL Audio Cleansweep but buy the uber expensive($499) Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.2 for more control over the system, I guess you can tune these using a Bluetooth enabled device.
What would you recommend? I know JL makes different models and I know nothing about them, CL441dsp, CL-SSI, and the CL-SES, which model would be most appropriate for my situation and what do each do differently? Or would you stick with the RF 3SIXTY?
What would you recommend? I know JL makes different models and I know nothing about them, CL441dsp, CL-SSI, and the CL-SES, which model would be most appropriate for my situation and what do each do differently? Or would you stick with the RF 3SIXTY?
#30
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