My 2011 evo x has been randomly not starting after being parked over night. First thought was bad battery so I had it tested at autozone and sure enough after charging and testing it failed. I proceeded by ordering a replacement battery online and since I was replacing anyways decided to go the mini battery route and ordered a Deka etx20l. Install was a breeze, I was able to use factory tie down with modified bolts and all was well in the world, the car started up great and ran fine that day voltage while running read 13.85-14v. The next morning my car was dead again! Now I should have done this the first time my battery died but I charged the battery up and used my Multimeter to measure current draw with everything off and got a reading of 1.02 amps, not good! I pulled fuses one at a time under the hood with no change. I then moved under the dash and proceeded to pull fuses one at a time. Finally when I pulled Fuse 9 current draw dropped down to 0.03 amps which from what I understand in OK.

Cliff: Dead battery. 1.02 Amps of parasitic drain measured. Tracked down to Fuse 9 under dash. Need help tracking down culprit from the following list of possibilities

From the circuit diagram Fuse 9 (15A) powers the following:

ABS, ASC, ACD, AYC AND S-AWC
·ACCESSORY SOCKET AND
CIGARETTE LIGHTER
·AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM
·AUDIO SYSTEM
·CRUISE CONTROL SYSTEM
·DOME LIGHT, LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT LIGHT
AND IGNITION KEY HOLE ILLUMINATION LIGHT
·HANDS-FREE CELLULAR PHONE SYSTEM
·HEADLIGHT LEVELING SYSTEM
·HEATED SEAT
·HEATER <VEHICLES WITHOUT AIR
CONDITIONING SYSTEM>
·MITSUBISHI MULTI-COMMUNICATION SYSTEM
(MMCS)
·SPARE CONNECTOR (FOR AUDIO)
·THEFT-ALARM SYSTEM
·TURN-SIGNAL LIGHT
AND HAZARD WARNING LIGHT
·TWIN CLUTCH-SPORTRONIC SHIFT
TRANSMISSION (TC-SST)


My question now is how do I go about testing all of these systems?! I was feeling optimistic when I located the correct fuse seeing that list has my hopes of finding it quite discouraged. Any advise or help in tracking down the culprit is greatly appreciated.

 

Here is a link to the page on the diagram I am looking at

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3M...ew?usp=sharing

 

Start easy - work to hard...
1. Check voltage at cig lighter w/ key off
2. Remove those light bulbs
3. Pull relay for the turn signal
4. Pull relay for the a/c
5. Pull center console and disconnect the seat heater switch
6. Aftermarket audio or stock? Disconnect radio.

Still?! Bang head against wall.

 

Yea, this reminds me of something; check the cig lighter if there's anything metalic fallen into it.. lol.

 

I had this w/ factory audio amp slowly draining the battery.

I tracked by listening to a low buzzing sound w/ ignition off... on my VIII.

 

Thanks for the input

I fixed part of the problem, now there is 0.50 Amps of current going through fuse 8. That powers the following:

ACCESSORY SOCKET AND CIGARETTE LIGHTER
·AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM
·AUDIO SYSTEM
·BRAKE WARNING LIGHT, FUEL WARNING LIGHT
AND OIL PRESSURE WARNING LIGHT
·CENTRAL DOOR LOCKING SYSTEM
·DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHT (DRL)
·DOME LIGHT, LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT LIGHT
AND IGNITION KEY HOLE ILLUMINATION LIGHT
·FOG LIGHT
·HEADLIGHT
·HEATED SEAT
·HEATER <VEHICLES WITHOUT AIR
CONDITIONING SYSTEM>
·IGNITION KEY REMINDER TONE ALARM
·IMMOBILIZER SYSTEM
·KEYLESS OPERATING SYSTEM (KOS)
·METER AND GAUGE
·MITSUBISHI MULTI-COMMUNICATION SYSTEM (MMCS)
·POWER WINDOWS
·SPARE CONNECTOR (FOR AUDIO)
·TAILLIGHT, POSITION LIGHT, REAR SIDE MARKER
LIGHT, LICENSE PLATE LIGHT AND LIGHTING
MONITOR TONE ALARM
·THEFT-ALARM SYSTEM
·TIRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM (TPMS)
·TRUNK LID OPENER
·TURN-SIGNAL LIGHT AND HAZARD WARNING LIGHT
·WINDSHIELD WIPER AND WASHER


Anyone have any input on how to test the BOLD items? I'm about to give up and take the car in to the dealer but.

 

Not to keen on the X's but does the vehicle have keyless entry? If you move your key out of range say in the house or as far as possible with all doors locked and alarm armed does the amperage drop? I would wait a few minutes and see it it drops to around .1 amp. Usually vehicles with keyless entry or extensive security systems take longer to go into sleep mode.

 

I had a Mazda do this...only to find out after 45 minutes the Smart junction box would go to sleep and the draw would drop. Not sure if this helps but I chased a non existent draw because of it .