Was curious if anyone has installed these in their Evos. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong and could definitely use some assistance.
So it goes from the Gauge to the Wideband Controller. Two other cables come out of the controller one is the power harness and the other is the sensor harness (not connected yet).
So the power harness has 4 wires:
Black: Ground
Red- 12v Constant Power (Fused(
White- Ignition Switch (accessory)
Orange - Dimmer 12v
I've used one of those pen checker thing to make sure the fuses were good.
Yet no matter what I do I can't even get the gauge to power on.
I plugged the Red into the Power Door Locks since those are always on.
I grounded the black.
I mean theoretically with just these two alone shouldn't that atleast power it on?
Cause I can't even get it to turn on.
Some car electronics need both 12v sources to operate. Try plugging in both the red and the white wires to see if it will power on. Where are you grounding the back wire?
Probably a DOA product. You can check again by using the battery directly but it sounds like it's RMA time.
Definitely was hoping for anything but that >_< how do I go about testing with the battery direct. It's not just literally run a wire from the positive terminal to the red and the black to the negative is it?
Unfortunately none of them worked. Been talking with Tanabe, attempted to get an RMA started but they keep blaming the wiring since all three gauges don't work. (Which is understandable). I used my multimeter to check that standalone 12v battery, and just used that as a direct shot as you suggested and even that doesn't power them up. Emailed them about that but still haven't received a response since Friday.
Like I said it's understandable considering all three are down, but I didn't even attempt to wire the other 2 just the AFR first and the direct to battery was the first attempt of "wiring" up the other two.
Edit: Just got off the phone with them and they said I can start the RMA process though I'd have to rip everything out to return everything couldn't just return the gauges, which kinda sucks since I already cut my vacuum line as well as ran all the lines. They did suggest though that I still have a shop take a look at the wiring (I had made an appointment on Friday, for this coming Thursday, earliest I could get). I mean if the standalone battery didn't power them up, I couldn't have possibly have f'ed this up? I dont know, I mean logically the issue seems isolated. I think the fact that all three of them are not working just blows my mind -.- and makes me doubt myself here.
Well apparantly I did **** up somewhere, and I'm not afraid to admit it. I was putting the red wire on the positive and the blackwire on the negative on the standalone battery, completely forgetting about the both the red and the white need to be on the positive. I went ahead and did that and what do you know, both the Boost and the Oil Pressure came on... couldn't test the AFR since it connects into a controller first.
Guess I gotta rehit up some of the spots with the multimeter again and find out what the **** is going on. In my defense like I said I didn't even attempt the Boost/Oil PRessure since I couldn't get the AFR, but it definitely gave me some more hope that it was just me after all..
There is a serial connection labeled on the wideband controller and it comes with a connection that ends in a couple of wires so I'm gonna go out on a limb and say yes. I haven't looked into it myself cause my laptop only has 1 usb port and no serial connection so the one I have is already in use by the tactrix cable so don't even know how I would do both.
