to be 16 and have your first sports car

 

Nitrous is the best bang for the buck period. The key is setting it up correctly to make it safe. A window switch is a good start. If you hit the rev limiter on the juice = BOOM. Is it for everyone? No. Does it work? Hell yeah. IMO the only way to go is with a piggyback or AEM to set it up right and have a seperate map for the nitrous. I run a dry shot with a UTEC and add the extra fuel via the injectors (1000cc) This way you are getting the same fuel distribution that you would with direct port. I always go with the theory that the less parts that you have, the less parts to break. This is why I went with a dry setup and use my UTEC for a window and WOT switch. With only one solenoid, there is a 50% less chance of a failed solenoid. A 75 shot is about as high as you want to go on a stock block. I will be stepping up to a 125 shot, but I also have a built motor. If you are forced to go wet, be sure to use a fuel pressure switch (hobbs switch) so that if you are not getting good fuel pressure, your N20 will not spray. It's all in the details. A purge is also a good idea to clear the lines.

 

I agree with Noize, the Evo already comes with a power adder, in the Case of NA cars you could go either way. supercharge. turbo, NOS. all these add power to your starting point. so he is saying , if you already have a turbo why add NOS. its like saying well lets make the EVO a twin turbo car or add a supercharger to an EVO. just doesnt make sense. you are even making the example your self. you mentioned starting with 50 then going to 150. with the turbo you would just get a bigger one or turn up the boost. NOW if you are just talking about how to add 50 HP to your car the cheapest and quickest then maybe NOS is appealing. but for a few dollars more, add some bolt ons with a tune and you can 100hp with reliability and never have to fill the bottle. if you want more power , just use race fuel, meth spray and run 28 lb boost for another 75 hp. just makes more sense than adding other parts to your car. turn up whats already on your car.

 

Nitrous really isn't less expensive than other upgrades. Compare the costs to install a nitrous system and buy nitrous refills throughout the year, and it's about the same as a turbo upgrade if you use it regularly. And I've never known anyone who installed it, used it a couple times, and never used it again. Once you hit the button and experience the extra power, it becomes a regular use item very quickly.

Also, don't figure you can install one of the entry level $499 kits and that's it. For an FI application you are much better off with a second fuel system so race gas can be run through the nitrous nozzle while regular gas in in the fuel tank. You might be able to get away with running a small wet shot on regular pump fuel, but don't screw up, because pistons and exaust valves end up being alot more expensive than a second fuel system.

 

I personally like NOS, and I think if you set it up correctly, it can be your best friend. But one bad thing is you can't take NOS to the track, where EVO X really shines.

 

I would personally being "new" to the car mod scene be afradi to blow my engine up and have to explain to my insurance it wasnt NOS =)

 

It's an Evo not a F body... the only real time I could see nitrous being a benefit would be if you had a MASSIVE turbo and were trying to help spool it in a drag racing only scenario or if you were spraying it on the intercooler to lower air charge temps. Upgrade your essentials, turbo back, intercooler hard piping, FMIC, turbo.

The other downside is you're having to pay MORE money to refill your bottle which varies depending on how much you spray it. Like most people said already unless you run a highly modified n2o setup, usually you need to upgrade your fuel system substantially as well as internal parts for them to sustain the abuse of the spray. It's way more cost efficient to do the bolt ons or a tune. Like Noize mentioned the tune alone gains the same as a modest shot of nitrous and cost would be about the same also but one is reusable and dependable and one is highly static and unpredictable.

 

I went the nitrous route on my EVO 8 because I wanted to keep the stock turbo for auto x days. With stock airbox and filter, stock intercooler and pipes, stock injectors, stock ECU, and stock boost, stock cams etc. my car ran 119mph traps all day on a 50 shot. Later I installed some Comp 272s, headstuds, and some stiffer valve springs and made 515whp and 505wtq on straight 93 octane with a 175 shot...still on all those stock parts. On race gas the car made well over 600wtq. Stock block...no problem. The car now has 40K miles and still has 180 compression across the board and 5% leakdown.

On the street, lining up with 35R cars pump gas for pump gas was a complete laughing matter. One of my buddies had a RWD car that ran 10.80s @ 124 and I could drag his *** on my pump gas tune no problem.

The only guys that don't like nitrous are those that haven't ever used it

 

Or they have different idea about racing.

You got some real good car there,
with stock engine,
stock intake box with stock filter
stock turbo, /Evo 8/
stock boost / 19 psi/ so stock everything.
only cams 272's,headstuds and valve springs with race gas and nos well over 600 wtq.... and with 93 octane 505 wtq...

whoaaa...if i knew that when i had my 8....

May i ask , are you the same guy who's pedal failed? With no unusual driver input?

 

Now that is a lot of juice. Can you give more details about your setup. I assume this is direct port? To the poster who said to use dual fuel tanks, the same can be achieved with a nitrous only map and putting some c16 in an empty tank. I personaly have 5 maps for different fuels, meth, nitrous, and c16. All can be switched on the fly w/o laptop using the UTEC. I may be the only one who still loves the utec, but I still do not see any other system that offers everything the utec does. Plus it does not hurt that they can be had for about $200 used!

 

Ed it is possible with no mods only 272 cams and head studs valve retainers on the 8 with stock boost those numbers?
I never heard that much gain before, fact not even close...
I might be in mistaken . Since i never used NOS.
from factory and very optimistic 230 wtq to well over 600 wtq, wich is well over 370 wtq. gain with only C16 and NOS. /on dynojet i assume/

 

The car made just a touch over 300whp without the nitrous and picked up over 200 on the 175 shot. On a 50 shot it picked up 90. Also...I was not on C16 when I made over 600wtq. I poured 5 gallons of Sunoco 110 into my tank of 93....maybe 2-3 gallons left in there. Your questioning of the torque figure is expected, but shows how little experience you have with nitrous. Spraying like that at 3500rpm on top of the boost coming in made HUGE power. The lower you spray, the more rediculous of a tq number you will have...but it held over 500 throughout the entire powerband. Thanks for your input and the gas pedal thing is funny. Since I had nitrous on my last car, I must have just ripped the pedal off my X with my erratic nitrous foot

EvoTech - It was a standard Zex wet kit. The solenoids were maxed out otherwise I would have put a 250+ through it on race gas. I never had an issue at all and it really loved the stock timing map. The car picked up 31-33mph on the second half of the track....I'm assuming because it held boost better in 4th gear I wish I had a chance to run it on the big shot. I think middle 10s would have been no issue if I could have hooked it up. Traction was non-existent in 1st and 2nd gear...it would roll all 4 into smoke.

 

Oh also...I saw you asked what kind of dyno. It was a Dyno Com. The numbers on it have been comparable to a dynojet. For reference, my friend's AMS 2.3 stroker with 35R made 435 as I recall on pump gas on that same dyno. I drove his car to an 11.3 @ 121

 

" Since I had nitrous on my last car, I must have just ripped the pedal off my X with my erratic nitrous foot "

 

HAS ANYBODY EVER HEARD OF CRYO 2 KITS. look in to it.. just as much power w/o the damage