As you can tell by the title i'm a newby when it comes to turbos and EVO!!!
If somone can kindly help me figure out which BOV to get to get max performance and sound quality...

Since I got a turbo i heard it is always good to have a boost gauge to make sure everything is normal and just to see the daily norm...

I have less than 200m on the car and i don't want to mess up warrenty or make too many holes into the car...

I'm sure there is a thread but I've been trying to search and all i'm getting is brand of BOV not function and how will it hold up with the new EVOX

 

ill save you the trouble here is majority of the responses youll get

1. search
2. put your flame suit on
3. waste of money
4. stick with stock and use the money for a real power mod

comming into these forums as a newb stateing you want a cool sound is deadly lol. Im not being mean but everone is gonna say you're a ricer. This is just a warning.

So far i seen a thread with a HKS ssqv with a good review and sound clips. But like i said most will say stick to the stock bov. Look at hks site they explain the technical side of the ssqv its pretty cool. Get a intake like ams and youll start to hear the bov.

Also because the X is so new not much bov are offered yet my advice is stick with stock for now and by the time you make big numbers where youll need to replace the bov there will be more options.

But welcome I hope you love your X and bosted cars are fun to drive keep up with the maintanence and your evo will live for a long time happy modding

 

by the way not to go off topic but how did you like your s2k??? my friend has a new one with that wing and body kit looks pretty sexy haha

 

LOL. That's a pretty accurate assesment. I won't say 1 or 2, but I will go with 3 and 4 both. The factory bypass valve offers superior function and reliability compared to an aftermarket valve, and an aftermarket valve offers no performance increase. If you want it for the "bling" factor, then whatever, it's your money.

For the gauge, I just bought an Autometer and installed it where the ash tray used to be. I don't smoke. You can run the boost line through one of several pass throughs into the passenger compartment, it's really not hard. The boost gauge line should be installed in a T behind the throttle body. I put mine in the T fitting leading to the bypass valve, right next to the throttle body and plenum. there are lots of other gauge brand options. Take a look in the DIY forum, there's some info in there regarding pass throughs.

 

why is everybody so messed up and assumes that he is going to get flamed, some people find things ricy some people dont, like i know someone who says that bov are ricy but a carbonfiber hood and neon window wipers and painting there interior with spray (lmaoo i had to say it hilberto) can paint is not, to each his own , i think that the hks ssqv is best, but if your just looking for the pshhh sound get a cone filter from autozone and see how you like the stock bov sound.

 

Because he probly is. Look at majority of the bov threads most get flamed. Im just giving a fellow member a heads up thats all.

 

Well... I guess I was miss guided...
I do know a lot of ricey cars... hmmm maybe it's rubbing offf AHHHHHH

S2K... That baby was a dream... The only reason to let it go was the 2 seater and my wife...

Very quick car but of course no high in T...

Did I mention gas!!!!! for a 240+ on my S2K it average about 27-29 MPG on a 11g Tank.... Hmmm...

 

evoX= 4dr= family car= fast grocery getter lol

 

I'm trying to explain that to the wife... FYI she is a STI fan... wasn't too happy on this new car purchase...

 

Honestly, for the stock like driveability I would go with a greddy type rs. As for gauges, go with prosport.

 

I'm in the middle of testing why my boost gauge needle is bouncing all over the place at mid to high RPM's. Since my boost gauge is T'd into the BOV line it seems to be picking every little change of boost, so getting a different BOV isn't always because of the rice factor. LOL

I'm considering the Works BOV and I heard the HKS BOV when "No_way" gave me a test drive last Friday and sounded good seemed driveable. I tried crushing my stock valve slightly, maybe 1/8" but it didn't seem to change much. After shortening the boost line to the BOV, the gauge is picking up even more of the needle bouncing. I may disconnect the signal line to the BOV and see if the behaviour is still there, although it could be from the BOV leaking out the IC side of the connector.

 

My boost gauge jumps around alot during times when I get the high RPM stutter that the second factory reflash was supposed to fix. I don't actually have the second reflash yet though. It will sweep from full boost the vacuum and back to full boost very quickly.

Try referencing the boost gauge off another line and see if it's the same. Or, temorarily disconnect the BOV line and plug it so it doesn't leak, and then try again again and see if the boost gauge jumps around.

 

That is quite funny
The car is yours or you gotta share it?
Cause if the car is yours no need for explanations
Anyway, seems u got the pants in the house

 

I heard to stay away from the HKS on the X-gofast bits stealth, but to agree with almost everyone else, stick with the stocker (it can hold up to 25-26lbs pretty well, its from the IX). As for gauges....well, the more you spend, the more accurate you can get. I say prosport, AEM, or maybe look at an all in one (DashHawk, DashDaq, ect). I have the DashDaq and love it for logging and real time (up to 9 param at a time).
I dont think you'll get flamed too much, I like the sound too....