On my 07 yamaha R1 they limited throttle opening on 1st-3rd gears below 5500 rpms to limit power to keep the front end down and so the power doesn't hit hard in a corner. Its kind of like a traction control at lower rpm. Squids that like to wheelie 24-7 hate it but if you are a cornercarver like me its nice even tho I am never at that rpm unless its a crazy slow corner hahaha

 

^^Agreed. I have been working with sport bikes for years and in most cases they have a second set of throttle plates that limit the amount of air entering the throttle body no matter how far open you twist the throttle. With an evo being drive by wire they can accomplish the same thing with one throttle valve.

Those of us that supercharge or turbo sport bikes make those "extra butterfly valves" the first thing to remove and allow the driver/rider to be in full control of the throttle. Those of you that can data log should check to see if throttle % increases dependant on gear selection. On the sport bikes gears 1-4 are limited by these valves. We can trick the bike into thinking its in gear 5 or 6 all the time to open the extra valves sooner to allow more power in the lower gears.

 

as far as we've been told, the new Hydra ems will include full dbw control

for now, our hydra is showing the same.

the manufacturers do it as some what of a limiter to "save" the engine for warranty purposes is what we've been told.


HTH

 

Not sure the ECU will know what gear its in on a 5sp, but certainly on the MR.

 

Have you guys also wondered if this could just be a sensor issue??

TPS is a 0-5v deal ..when you power up .. it shows 0.6-0.7v .. which should give you a reading of 12-13% .. any lower and you get a CEL for TPS failure

At WOT .. it should show a voltage of 4.5-4.6v .. which well .. gives you your 88% ..

If you have logged normal cabled throttles .. its exactly the same ..

 

On my mazdaspeed 3, we found out that the throttle position was actually in degrees. Are you sure that it's percent? Just being thorough

 

My logger reads % for now-I think I can switch it to deg as well fro certain load values.
Looking at the logs from the weekend (track day on Monday )-again, I never hit anything above 91% at WOT anywhere (92 non oxy gas). Boost tapers are "normal" as is everything else (for an untooned car with as many mods as I have). I agree with the post on the value and mapping-just the way the ECU reads and calculates.

 

Yea i get .64v from my TPS at idle and i can get up to 5.0v volts if i press the gas in slowly to WOT. Funny thing is if i mash the throttle the voltage reading will frease and not go up to 5.0v You guys might want to check out the plastic stop behind the gas pedal. I think its adjustable too?

If your TPS is not zero'ed your going to have wrong readings at WOT. The TPS if the only thing telling your computer how open your throttle really is.

I dont know just my 2 cents

 

+1 I've zerod the sensors a couple times on the DasDaq (great tool, btw-def recommend to most everyone on here!).
Goofy ECU....just goofy.....

 

In our data logging sessions, we noticed a small bit of play in the throttle body position after you put the accelerator all the way down. At first we were determined to figure a solution for this as well. But after doing a bit of research and measurement we decided against it.

Everytime the engine starts and shuts off the TPS recalibrates; therefore the reading may change each time the car starts. This is most notable after you disconnect/reconnect the battery and read the values [before], then you read the values after you turn the key to the on position for approximately 10 secs and then off for ten secs [after]. While you do this you can actually hear the throttle body run through it's calibration checks.

We're not entirely sure all of Mitsubishi's reasons, but this lead us to believe that they may have done this to leave a consistent operating window within the operating range of the sensor. For example, if the actual reading goes from 0-100% they may have a sliding operating window of 80. So this reading may vary from 10-90% or to 13-93% during different days. So as the TPS recalibrates itself it can keep a consistent linear operating range. If the theory holds true, it may also be done to account for variation in manufacturing and environment.

Now we don't recommend this, but after you put the accelerator all the way down and you read your initial max value, you can actually increase the throttle position further by pressing harder up against it. *only a bit further* At this point we noticed the accelerator lever arm starting to bend, and given that a few people have already snapped their accelerator please don't do this other then to confirm.

I can't confirm or deny if this will work with a Generic ODB tool, but our values were read directly off the ECU and reconfirmed with the Mitsubishi factory MUT-3 tool.

 

hmmm..sounds like a proj for the drive home

 

I wanted to be clear. Most likely, you see only 1-2% more. It's not much.

 

This is why I don't like DBW. Eventually I will have to conform, but for now it's throttle cable FTW.

I hope there is a fix for this.

What happens if the servo on the throttle body fails. Estimated life of throttle servo is what?

 

Would the Blitz Throttle Controller take care of this problem?

 

No .. it changes the amount of pedal depression to get to 87%