Crappy idle and hitting a brick wall
Crappy idle and hitting a brick wall
Don't take the title literally. Earlier this evening while commuting home I decided to get on the car a bit. While in 4th gear mashed the throttle. Heard a loud pop (almost like a ballon popping) and the car went into limp mode. Car hung up on 2k rpm when I slowed down. Pulled the code using Cobb AP, it showed P1235.
Made it home and decided to get something to eat with my girl. I was explaining to her what happend earlier. I decided to get on the car...it stuttered up top like hitting a brick wall.
Drove the car home and started up the car in the garage. Car idles like crap. Bouncing back and forth never getting above 1k rpm. The car idles so hard it feels like it's about to stall. Decided to pop open the faux engine cover and notice the fuel pressure regulator hose popped off from the intake manifold. So I put the hose back on with a small hose clamp to give it some hold. Started the car back up and let it idle. The idle went back to normal with no sputtering. Also test drove the car around the block getting on the gas with no problems like before.
Now my question is...when it was sputtering up top why didn't it throw a code? Was the P1235 code earlier even related to loose hose issue? I know code P1235 is the MAP plausibility code which throws your car into limp mode. However, driving around the second time to get something to eat...it didn't throw any code but sputter really bad up top like coming to a complete halt. Man, I'm hoping I didn't damage anything in the long run.
Made it home and decided to get something to eat with my girl. I was explaining to her what happend earlier. I decided to get on the car...it stuttered up top like hitting a brick wall.
Drove the car home and started up the car in the garage. Car idles like crap. Bouncing back and forth never getting above 1k rpm. The car idles so hard it feels like it's about to stall. Decided to pop open the faux engine cover and notice the fuel pressure regulator hose popped off from the intake manifold. So I put the hose back on with a small hose clamp to give it some hold. Started the car back up and let it idle. The idle went back to normal with no sputtering. Also test drove the car around the block getting on the gas with no problems like before.
Now my question is...when it was sputtering up top why didn't it throw a code? Was the P1235 code earlier even related to loose hose issue? I know code P1235 is the MAP plausibility code which throws your car into limp mode. However, driving around the second time to get something to eat...it didn't throw any code but sputter really bad up top like coming to a complete halt. Man, I'm hoping I didn't damage anything in the long run.
Don't take the title literally. Earlier this evening while commuting home I decided to get on the car a bit. While in 4th gear mashed the throttle. Heard a loud pop (almost like a ballon popping) and the car went into limp mode. Car hung up on 2k rpm when I slowed down. Pulled the code using Cobb AP, it showed P1235.
Made it home and decided to get something to eat with my girl. I was explaining to her what happend earlier. I decided to get on the car...it stuttered up top like hitting a brick wall.
Drove the car home and started up the car in the garage. Car idles like crap. Bouncing back and forth never getting above 1k rpm. The car idles so hard it feels like it's about to stall. Decided to pop open the faux engine cover and notice the fuel pressure regulator hose popped off from the intake manifold. So I put the hose back on with a small hose clamp to give it some hold. Started the car back up and let it idle. The idle went back to normal with no sputtering. Also test drove the car around the block getting on the gas with no problems like before.
Now my question is...when it was sputtering up top why didn't it throw a code? Was the P1235 code earlier even related to loose hose issue? I know code P1235 is the MAP plausibility code which throws your car into limp mode. However, driving around the second time to get something to eat...it didn't throw any code but sputter really bad up top like coming to a complete halt. Man, I'm hoping I didn't damage anything in the long run.
Made it home and decided to get something to eat with my girl. I was explaining to her what happend earlier. I decided to get on the car...it stuttered up top like hitting a brick wall.
Drove the car home and started up the car in the garage. Car idles like crap. Bouncing back and forth never getting above 1k rpm. The car idles so hard it feels like it's about to stall. Decided to pop open the faux engine cover and notice the fuel pressure regulator hose popped off from the intake manifold. So I put the hose back on with a small hose clamp to give it some hold. Started the car back up and let it idle. The idle went back to normal with no sputtering. Also test drove the car around the block getting on the gas with no problems like before.
Now my question is...when it was sputtering up top why didn't it throw a code? Was the P1235 code earlier even related to loose hose issue? I know code P1235 is the MAP plausibility code which throws your car into limp mode. However, driving around the second time to get something to eat...it didn't throw any code but sputter really bad up top like coming to a complete halt. Man, I'm hoping I didn't damage anything in the long run.
i have been getting that stupid p1235 the dealer replaced the maf sensor once already and it only trips when it's cold outside( eg. -5C and below) but when it's 0 or above it's fine. my car used to sputter a lot up top, it seems better after the maf sensor replacement, but i think that it just needs a tune. These damn evo's run super rich
Same thing happen to me with the fuel pressure regulator hose..
I got a check engine light but our car seems to kill the check engine light, if you start and turn off the car 5 times...
But after putting the hose back on with a zip tie. I never got the check engine light again.
I got a check engine light but our car seems to kill the check engine light, if you start and turn off the car 5 times...
But after putting the hose back on with a zip tie. I never got the check engine light again.
If you search a little, you will find other post about this. If you have AP just call them up and see if they have a map you can download that fixed the Overboost code. Or just get the car tuned by someone who has done any Evo 10 and they should be able to get you going good.
If you search a little, you will find other post about this. If you have AP just call them up and see if they have a map you can download that fixed the Overboost code. Or just get the car tuned by someone who has done any Evo 10 and they should be able to get you going good.
if the fix was as easy as downloading a correction map, wouldn't you think i would've gotten it fixed by now? so far i've thrown 3 codes. p1241, p1235, and u0184. i just now threw the p1235 code again commuting to work. i'm going to drop by cobb tomorrow. hopefully i get these issues taken care of. or i'm throwing this car back to stock and selling the car. tired of dealing with these issues.
After reading this post I cable-tied / clamped just about every rubber engine hose I could find that wasn't fastened already.
I hear you though, I recently installed a Perrin turbo inlet hose and if you don't somehow fasten the vent breather connection it WILL pop off on it's own.
I hear you though, I recently installed a Perrin turbo inlet hose and if you don't somehow fasten the vent breather connection it WILL pop off on it's own.
After reading this post I cable-tied / clamped just about every rubber engine hose I could find that wasn't fastened already.
I hear you though, I recently installed a Perrin turbo inlet hose and if you don't somehow fasten the vent breather connection it WILL pop off on it's own.
I hear you though, I recently installed a Perrin turbo inlet hose and if you don't somehow fasten the vent breather connection it WILL pop off on it's own.
I think I may have gotten a check engine light for this same reason. Went to have the code read, but it disappeared. Could someone please post a pic of what actually happens? Is it possible for the check engine light to go out and not come back on for a while?
Thanks.
Trending Topics
Yeah, I installed the Cobb turbo inlet hose. Practically the same as the Perrin one. I clamped the vent breather as well since it slides in and out so easily. It's amazing the fuel regulator hoses are not clamped down from the factory. Speaking to Calvin at Cobb, that particular hose blows off with enough pressure...which happens more than often.
Yeah I just got P1235 today, my car seems like it's had a boost leak for a week or so now. I notice a "whoosh" sound under the hood on part throttle. I don't know if it is the wastegate dumping or a boost leak. It is absolutely powerless on part throttle in 4/5th gear and the code popped up when I was trying to floor it in 5th gear, I actually saw it come on.
Visually I couldn't see any hose issues or anythign popped off that I could see. Which hoses are notorious on the X's for loosening? Which ones should I check?
I have noticed that just past tip-in at cruising throttle I am in vacuum, shouldn't I be boosting a little bit of I'm on any kind of throttle?
Visually I couldn't see any hose issues or anythign popped off that I could see. Which hoses are notorious on the X's for loosening? Which ones should I check?
I have noticed that just past tip-in at cruising throttle I am in vacuum, shouldn't I be boosting a little bit of I'm on any kind of throttle?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
strang3majik
Evo X Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
2
Aug 6, 2015 08:46 AM
dsm
Evo X Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
11
Feb 3, 2013 10:38 AM
goofygrin
Evo X Engine Management / Tuning Forums
21
May 30, 2009 02:02 PM




