F.....g Idle
F.....g Idle
Hi all,
sometimes I see horrible Idle with jumping rpm and even stalling. Some times the engine works fine. It changes during day, it can go fine for an hour and than it breaks. I am running Stage 2 + Cobb maps, but the problems started 2 weeks ago after no change tothe engine.
When it runs fine it looks like pressing brake pedal makes it unstable and depressing makes it better.
Please take a look at the log - I guess 18 degrees idle is too much, isnīt it? According to the map it should be 10. WTF am I missing?
sometimes I see horrible Idle with jumping rpm and even stalling. Some times the engine works fine. It changes during day, it can go fine for an hour and than it breaks. I am running Stage 2 + Cobb maps, but the problems started 2 weeks ago after no change tothe engine.
When it runs fine it looks like pressing brake pedal makes it unstable and depressing makes it better.
Please take a look at the log - I guess 18 degrees idle is too much, isnīt it? According to the map it should be 10. WTF am I missing?
It sounds like you have an issue with your battery or alternator. If idle starts getting rough when you have a voltage drain, and it started happening all of a sudden, I would start looking at the electrical system. The AccessPORT/Mapping dosen't alter this system at all. Do you get similar results if the AC/Defrost or rear window defrost is on?
Travis
COBB Tuning
Travis
COBB Tuning
It sounds like you have an issue with your battery or alternator. If idle starts getting rough when you have a voltage drain, and it started happening all of a sudden, I would start looking at the electrical system. The AccessPORT/Mapping dosen't alter this system at all. Do you get similar results if the AC/Defrost or rear window defrost is on?
Travis
COBB Tuning
Travis
COBB Tuning
I was thinking about bad MAF sensor, could it be that? When I disconnect it, Idle runs at 1k rpm without hesitation.
I know it is not the maps tuning problem, I flashed stock map back and the bad idle remained.
One more thing - what influences the ignition advance? In "Low det map" there I see 10 degrees at idle, I even tried to set the ceiling to 10 degrees but I still saw 16-18 max values on the gauge...
Last edited by xhomm02; Dec 18, 2009 at 02:14 PM.
umm, how many miles on the car ?
maybe just spark plug problems , pull them out and check them measur the gap too,
theres a vacum hose about 4 inchs away from the oil dip stick find it and check that out ...
on the other not im having problems to riht now and i dont know why ..... :S
maybe just spark plug problems , pull them out and check them measur the gap too,
theres a vacum hose about 4 inchs away from the oil dip stick find it and check that out ...
on the other not im having problems to riht now and i dont know why ..... :S
I have 25k miles on it.
I checked the vacuum hoses that can bee accessed without elevating the car - no problems
Pulled out the spark plugs and regapped, seemed to be good
Cleaned air filter (KN drop-in), cleared MAF sensor with MAF cleaner
Checked the crank ventilation hose, tried to disconnect the evaporate recirculation ventil, still the same problems.
The problems are never on cold engine, but in 50% times on warm engine.
I checked the vacuum hoses that can bee accessed without elevating the car - no problems
Pulled out the spark plugs and regapped, seemed to be good
Cleaned air filter (KN drop-in), cleared MAF sensor with MAF cleaner
Checked the crank ventilation hose, tried to disconnect the evaporate recirculation ventil, still the same problems.
The problems are never on cold engine, but in 50% times on warm engine.
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Are you running stock? How was your idle before flash via AP? Most of rough idle issue I've seen/heard and my experience are related with fuel inj/airflow/ecu(electronic). Tracking down rough idle isn't fun...
I have the same problem on all kind of maps - Cobb stage2, Cobb Stage 1, Stock map.
All idle controls are set to the same exact specs as your 2 other friends who came down for the tune. Do you have a laptop and op 2.0 cable? If you pick one up I can adjust your idle and fix you up all the way in Canada!
Hi all,
sometimes I see horrible Idle with jumping rpm and even stalling. Some times the engine works fine. It changes during day, it can go fine for an hour and than it breaks. I am running Stage 2 + Cobb maps, but the problems started 2 weeks ago after no change tothe engine.
When it runs fine it looks like pressing brake pedal makes it unstable and depressing makes it better.
Please take a look at the log - I guess 18 degrees idle is too much, isnīt it? According to the map it should be 10. WTF am I missing?
sometimes I see horrible Idle with jumping rpm and even stalling. Some times the engine works fine. It changes during day, it can go fine for an hour and than it breaks. I am running Stage 2 + Cobb maps, but the problems started 2 weeks ago after no change tothe engine.
When it runs fine it looks like pressing brake pedal makes it unstable and depressing makes it better.
Please take a look at the log - I guess 18 degrees idle is too much, isnīt it? According to the map it should be 10. WTF am I missing?
im getting my intercooler next week some time ,
and mybe a little change in the stock turbo lol.... who know maybe cams ,
im undisided at this time

thanks PETE for answer this thread
at first i had the big bang problem , i figered it was over boosting bc of the temp, out side
but no i started have the idle crazyness like if i would have cams....... the warmer the car gets the bigger the stage cams i have lol... j/k
ohh answer the question Novaspyder isnt getting any problems and pat 031 well i dont really talk to him much so...
i have a check engine light so im ganna pull the codes out tmw as soon as shops open up tmw ...
and no i dont not have the 2.0 cable yet :S
i have a check engine light so im ganna pull the codes out tmw as soon as shops open up tmw ...
and no i dont not have the 2.0 cable yet :S


