Here are the logs of a couple of 3rd gears pulls I did. I'm not sure if my spool is too lean or I just need to pull back timing a degree or two. When you make adjustments how many spaces would you update? I have attached a spreadsheet with two pulls. The car really did not have any knock until the temps dropped. I have been adjusting the WGDC's to get the boost to hit 24 psi or so and maintain it. I also have rescaled the WGDC table and I'm pretty happy with the results. The boost used to hit too hard and would slump a little after the initial ramp up. I have the boost pretty smooth when there is no knock. I have been tweaking it with the boost error disabled for now. I want to turn that back on once I think I have the boost/timing/fuel all set perfect. I think the temps now would be worse case.

Let me know what you all think.

Thanks in advance.

 

First of all your timing map looks like poop... way too low. If you don't run enough advance you will knock. Your LTFT's are super high... means your injectors are not scaled correctly. Your fuel map looks generic... you log way too much useless crap that is not needed...

Your car needs some serious tuning help...

 

Everyone has to start somewhere.

Timing map is quite blocky, try to smooth everything out and see if that helps with the knock. I would then try adding a touch of fuel in the problem places, if that doesn't help, try pulling a degree of timing and see if that helps. Make sure your boost is also smooth. If it is fluctuating alot, that can cause knock as it jumps around load cells. Your boost may very well be to high also. The smoother you can make everything, the happier your car will be.

Chris

 

It's pretty difficult to tell much from the log you provided, you need to log less items as Clipse3GT stated. One line of data every 100 RPM should be a nice target.

What kinda fuel are you running and is the mod list in your signature current? The ign timing does look low for a stock turbo running 22psi or so. Also your ign timing is practically the same from 200-300 load, you really should lower the timing as the load gets higher.

You may also want to post your Mivec maps since it can also play a big part in causing knock.

 

step 1:

log less, all you need is:

rpm, timingadv, knocksum, boost, afr, load

I also log TPS to make finding WOT runs easier in a 2mb log file

I also log IPW, but thats more to make sure the car isn't doing anything dumb

Try logging minimal then post up a 3rd or 4th WOT pull

 

Pretty much everyone else already chimed in with the answers:

Log less items to get better data rates

I see a wideband data line in the graph but it's hard to determine where you are at.

When you say temps have dropped are you saying 30-40* F versus 70* F is leaning you out or something? The ECU should accomodate that change for the most part, possibly turning the boost down 1-2 psi would be the most you would (or should) have to do.

Get your Cruise LTFT's dialed in better so that it's not adding so much fuel in at WOT, you want them to hover around +-2 of zero.

22-24 psi should be easy to tune for knock free on the stock turbo.

Use either stock MIVEC for now or maps that are proven to work decently (such as my Hiboost maps).

Only adjust one element at a time, basically don't try and correct 20 different factors in one flash unless you know the changes made aren't going to give you unpredictable results. Usually changing timing more than 2* or AFR more than .3 AFR is a bad idea without testing if the direction you are going is not going to cause problems.

Assuming that your AFR's are in the safe 11.0-11.5 range, try timing that is around 6-8* at peak torque and then slowly ramps up to 16-18* at 8000 as a better bet. Basically by keeping timing that retarded you are sensitizing the car for knock events and then trying to increase it 2* per 500 rpm's in the 5000+ range sets it off. This would be for the 200-220 load cells, a good bet is to reduce the entire curve 1* lower for each 20 load higher on the table beyond that. Typically the stock turbo will hit 240-260 load at torque peak so 6* would work well there and then taper to 200-220 load at redline.

Keep in mind these are all general statements and if you have doubts you should consider getting the car professionally tuned if you don't want to risk problems.

 

nothing much for me say .. LOL all the guru's are here already ! yeah i strongly agree, log only critical items as stated and do or solve 1 thing/issue at a time. too many cooks will spoil the soup.

slowly but surely don't take too much risk and do not make too BIG changes for more power. it will come naturally.

there are alot of guidelines here in the forums. as you as not too far into your tuning, i would suggest you flash your stock rom in and start from scratch by adjusting timing and eliminating knocks (if u have any) then adjust your AFR/Boost or any other settings that you may want to adjust and do it progressively.

just my 2 cents.

it might be a good idea to recalibrate your WB02 before you start a fresh tune and disconnect your batt. for a couple of mins. to reset your fuel trims. make sure you have fresh fuel in your tanks and it's full, you don't to run outta fuel during tuning.

happy tuning ah ha, Evoscan V2.7 final release is awesome, it works fine and much easier now to tune our evox's . . .

 

My LORD that some low *** timing on the lowed part. where your 3* is at mine about 8-9*. I don't think you need pull timing. Your not even hit full boost till 6000rpm but your not laying into at 2500rpm your doing 3800rpm. Like everyone else said Log less and do 3rd or 4th gear WOT pull from 2500rpm. Your maps need a lot of help man.

 

Great feedback everyone! In a couple of hours I'm going to do some more logging with the bare minimum. I keep EvoScan running all the time to feed my gauge setup, pic attached (BTW, I added Boost and Converted Batt to SST Temp in that Gauge Template). The other day on the way home from work, I was a little lazy and just enabled "logging to a file" and did not disable the other stuff for tuning. I thought the other night that I would just do a couple of pulls.

And yes, the signature should reflect everything that is on the car right now. In case that changes in the future, I'll post it here so I don't confuse people in the future that reference this thread.

Buschur Crossflow Catback
UR HFC Metal Substrate
AEM Intake
Nisei 1pc UICP
GrimmSpeed EBCS
OpenPort 2.0
LC-1 Wideband
EvoScan 2.7 beta (Thanks EvoScan Team)

Right now, I believe the Timing and Fuel are stock. I originally had the car tuned when I first put on the GrimmSpeed EBCS, but my tuner had a difficult time dialing in the boost and it took WAY too long for a dyno day. When I left, the WGDC was still off. However, the whole time the AFR were good. This was last fall while temps were in the 70*F range. I since decided to finish the tune myself. I focused a lot learning about tuning the WGDC while making sure there was no knock and good AFRs. I was happy with my new WGDC curve I tuned. I started to retune the WGDC from scratch myself and meanwhile reading the boards like crazy. Since then the temps have dropped in my area, 30*F-40*F, and I have stared to get some knock. So now, that I'm feeling pretty good about my boost curve, I'm focusing on Timing and Fuel. I was also very interested in getting my LTFTs back to zero.

I should have some more logs up soon.

 

Well no way your timing and fuel maps are stock. Afr's are to lean for stock and I have not seen MR but GSR stock looks like these.

 

Hmmm...my tuner must have made some adjustments at the very beginning of the tune and never spoke about it. It really was a struggle with the WGDCs during the tune. I'll go back and compare my stock ROM to confirm.

 

smanders, how did u hook it up to your dash ? which player are u using ? it's coolllll ... mind sharing your gauge template ? thx in advance

 

If you don't mind mentioning, who did your tune? That way the gurus here have an idea of where this tune came from and what else may/may not be wrong with it.

Cool gauge set up!

 

Here are 4 runs I did with a better logging setup. The knock this time was very minimal. The temps are a little warmer than the other runs the other day. I know the ECU takes temp into account but you can still tell its not exactly consistent.

Thanks for all your help!

 

PM'ed