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AEM Analog Boost Gauge Problem, no Vacuum Reading

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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 06:51 PM
  #16  
mattchan99's Avatar
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From: Chicago, IL
Thanks stokEd, this help me a lot and it finally worked. Sucks that I have to wait till the UEGO gauge is warmed up and the red light disappear before I start the car. It's that extra 10 sec before starting is the boring part haha. OH well nothing to complain about when it works now.
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 06:53 PM
  #17  
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From: Denver, CO
Originally Posted by mattchan99
Thanks stokEd, this help me a lot and it finally worked. Sucks that I have to wait till the UEGO gauge is warmed up and the red light disappear before I start the car. It's that extra 10 sec before starting is the boring part haha. OH well nothing to complain about when it works now.
Sure thing, glad I could help.
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 04:55 AM
  #18  
ZWingerRyRy's Avatar
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From: Minnesota
I used Power Door Locks as Constant v12, Cigg as IGN, Illumination in Hazard Lights. And i get no problems.
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 04:37 PM
  #19  
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From: Denver, CO
Originally Posted by ZWingerRyRy
I used Power Door Locks as Constant v12, Cigg as IGN, Illumination in Hazard Lights. And i get no problems.
You have a Defi gauge, right? Getting switched power from the Cig Lighter fuse won't work for the AEM analog gauge.
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 03:50 PM
  #20  
Fuel53's Avatar
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From: Straight out of Lo Cal!
Hey guys I don't mean to high jack this thread, but I have a question about where you install the T fitting under the hood.

Is it better to install it close to the Intake manifold or the BOV and why? Thanks for the info.
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 03:11 AM
  #21  
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From: Süderbrarup, Germany
I got atm. same problem with my Evo 8 EU-spec and was already going mad with that AEM boost gauge (only difference is that i got a digital one but assume the power problem will be same).
In idle i got +/- 0 (sometimes a very bit less, sometimes a very bit more) and while driving it kicks the needle out of the scale.

Will try the mentioned idea with the power source on next weekend so thanks for this helpful thread!

Best regards
Bodylotion

P.S.: funny thing is that the other digital AEM gauges have no problems and are working correctly. Seems that it's only a problem to the boost gauge.
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 05:11 PM
  #22  
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From: Denver, CO
Originally Posted by Bodylotion
P.S.: funny thing is that the other digital AEM gauges have no problems and are working correctly. Seems that it's only a problem to the boost gauge.
Yes, the digital AEM gauge is not sensitive to the power dropoff, but the analog AEM gauge is.
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 06:35 AM
  #23  
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From: Minneapolis
Originally Posted by stokEd
For my AEM gauges:

Fuse 3 - CONSTANT Power
Fuse 12 - IGNITION Power

This worked for me, thanks VERY much!
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Old Jan 10, 2014 | 04:28 PM
  #24  
badassmotha4000's Avatar
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From: North Dakota
I can attest that fuse 12 works. I had someone install my gauges because I know next to nothing about the electronics in a vehicle (which these days is almost everything) but they had hooked up the ignition to the cigarette lighter. The boost gauge would die right after startup so i took my car back to the mechanic. For starters, don't have multiple gauges grounded to the same location. Also piggyback the "gauge" fuse which is fuse 12. I haven't had the fuse blow up on me yet and I've only had it on for 300+ miles but many others have used this same fuse with great success. Best of luck .
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