Car only came with one key/fob fast key when I bought it. I finally bought a new one and dropped it and the car to get programed. It was not the only thing that got reprogramed. Didn't notice anything was different because I was nursing a new clutch. Went to the track this weekend and ran 1 sec slower in the 1/4 then with the stock clutch. Back to stock 13.5 times again.

I am just gonna buy a Cobb AP I guess. Perrin catback, aftermarket down pipe (don't remember the brand) with stock cat, and an ETS intake are the only bolt ons. Will the Cobb take care of my needs? Easy to use for a noob?

 

We don't know your needs....

Are you looking to not get flashed over? You could have just saved your rom and flashed back. Alternatively, I've always wondered if changing the version number to something higher than they have keeps their flasher from overwriting due to versioning.

 

Maybe you just had an off night? Are you sure they flashed the ecu? I just can't see any dealership doing something that wasnt requested, its hard enough getting them to do that.

It has been cold out, really cold out lately.

 

What I meant by my needs was, can the cobb maximize my bolt ons.


I have had an off night but bad was 13.1ish. It was in the 60's here not cold.

One other thought, when I first installed a boost guage about 4 months ago the car was boosting at 26psi which I thought was high. It seems these days it's around 30psi which I know is not right. Leak? Should I investigate this first?

 

ive worked in dealerships, and maybe just the ones ive worked at. but as soon as we bring the car in, were supposed to check it and see if it has any service bulletins. if it does we had to do it AFTER the work requested was done.

so i can understand them doing that

 

You overboost when the weather is cold unless you tune for it. Do you have a wideband? If you did, you could easily tell if you had a stock flash. You would be in the 9s (depending on your intake) around redline at WOT. Even if you had a intake, you would still be running very rich. Also your boost would not be 26 psi on a stock tune and def. would not hit 30 psi.

The AP can not "maximize" your bolt-ons only a custom tune can do this. An AP can make your car run better but it will not "maximize" all your bolt-ons

 

Good answers

 

Thanks those are the answers I was looking for.

Brand new Wideband sitting in the box. I have been reading it is a job to get the down pipe out and I have not set the time for that job yet. I will soon though.


I have a prosport boost gauge, don't bash it was all I could get at the time. I have been reading some folks have high boost numbers with this brand?

I have noticed two things different about the car also. My rpm's do not hang ever so slightly like they used to. Off the gas and they drop right away. The other is that dang check light a ding when the wheels slip. It seems to go off over bumps, in curves, and I know the wheels are not braking loose. I had to be driving very aggressive for this to happen in the past.

 

Its not that bad to take off the downpipe to install the wideband. It took like a half an hour to take the downpipe off once the car is in the air. All you need is some extensions and a knuckle. Oh ya another person is very helpful so they can guide the short socket onto the bolt. You dont have to take off the "mouth" that is connected to the turbo.

A wideband is an evo's best friend

 

Yeah, downpipe is easy its the O2 housing thats a pain. Install the wideband for sure.

I run a prosport... I don't really care that much about the boost gauge, because its just a quick glance and I'm not tuning based off of it. When you are tuning use the factory map sensor that goes >33psi and is super accurate and in-line with the rest of your log.