Is this normal A/F
Is this normal A/F
Ok first im sorry if this has been answered already but i did search.
Well my wideband (AEM UEGO) at idle is very jumpy. it always has been but i have noticed my friends are usually alot more stable. Under throttle its still slightly jumpy at wot its a lot more stable.
what could cause this maybe a dirty sensor?
Video
Driving in 4th gear...a lil boost at the end
Idle w/ drive off
Well my wideband (AEM UEGO) at idle is very jumpy. it always has been but i have noticed my friends are usually alot more stable. Under throttle its still slightly jumpy at wot its a lot more stable.
what could cause this maybe a dirty sensor?
Video
Driving in 4th gear...a lil boost at the end
Idle w/ drive off
It's going to bounce around. I haven't put mine in the evo yet, but the one I had in ITR used to do the same thing. As long as it was reading right at idle and especially at WOT, I was satisfied.
Taken from http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ter/index.html
We mentioned the stoichiometric air-fuel ratio (14.7:1) that is the ideal ratio for lowest emissions, but this isn't the best ratio for power. It used to be that 12.5:1 was considered the best power ratio, but with improved combustion chambers and hotter ignition systems, the ideal now is around 12.8:1 to 13.2:1. This is roughly 13 parts of air to one part fuel. It's what combustion engineers call an excess fuel ratio and is intended to ensure that all the air is used to support the combustion process. This is because air is the oxidizer in combustion. Too many enthusiasts think that adding additional fuel beyond the ideal to create a richer mixture will make more power. This doesn't work because you can only burn the fuel when you have enough air to support combustion. That's why engines make more power when you add a supercharger or nitrous--you're shoving more air in the cylinder so that you can burn more fuel. Regardless of the amount of air in the cylinder, it still requires a given ratio of fuel to burn. Add too much extra fuel, and power will decrease.
It is impossible for a car to calculate a perfect 14.7 during acceleration all the time. And when you let off the throttle your bov is opening creating a richer mixture. It might come close on long highway trips as the fuel trims help calculate/predict the next mixture.
It is impossible for a car to calculate a perfect 14.7 during acceleration all the time. And when you let off the throttle your bov is opening creating a richer mixture. It might come close on long highway trips as the fuel trims help calculate/predict the next mixture.
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Not sure about the AEM gauge but is there a way to lower the sampling rate? I can sample anywhere from 5hz to 2000hz. Not sure what the sensor is capable of and 2000hz would be useless. But maybe you are sampling at 20hz or higher. I am sampling a 10hz and my A/F's move around as well. Not to worry.
Have the same gauge. I was told it runs a little .3-.5 richer via gauge results instead of hovering exactly at 14.7. Jumpiness is always there. When the tuner did his thing, he said it was reading spot on according to logs.
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