What are you running? Do you have any other mods?

 

My advice: don't let the car idle for warm it up.
1) Idling is the worst rpm condition for lubrication.
2) Idling needs more time to warm up the engine.
3) Supposing you can warm the engine up at idle, when you move the car I don't see the point of having the engine warm and the gearbox, diffs and all the other moving parts cold.

Start the car, wait some seconds (10-15-30) and drive it. Stay out of boost and don't beat it hard for 5-8 miles.

 

Care to explain why the manual states to let it warm up to one bar before moving ?

I never let my car warm up to 180 coolant temp by keeping but I also try not to drive until I'm at 1 bar even then I take it easy till the coolant is at temp (oil temp will lag though)

 

This is why I drive it softly to let the other moving parts warm up too.
AFAIK, idling is fine, it's the INITIAL start period (15 seconds or so) that are the worst since there is no oil moving.

Care to cite sources?

 

For the same reason it doesn't say that you have a launch control = someone will use it endless and because there are a lot of people that from a cold start push to redline gear after gear to warm the engine as soon as possible.

So, point 1) is true and warming up the whole car with care is for me the best thing to do.

 

Still don't see how idling is the worst thing for lubrication.

Agreed that idling needs way more time to warm up the engine compared to light load.

 

Start ups and shut downs are the worse part where most of the wear and tear occurs in most machines so I think he might be referring to. That applies to pumps, turbines,
compressors and I'm sure engines are no different.

On another note, here in Canada warming up the car for like 10 minutes in the winter is almost a must if you park your car outside, besides your AYC pump will die in no time.

 

Oil pressure. This is the reason you immediately bring a new engine to 3k RPM upon initial start-up, and also after new camshaft installation.

 

Okay, so you have high oil pressure on initial startup, that's a given. But how is actually moving the car vs leaving sitting there to thin out the oil some more a better option? The former will warm up the car faster, granted, but since you'll have load on your motor, wouldn't that cause more wear and tear (since you don't have full, well lubrication)

 

More components besides just the engine need to be warmed up. The most effective and efficient way to warm up the car (engine, transmission, drivetrain) is gentle low-load driving. My house is located 1.5 miles off the highway I take to work which gives my car ample time to come up to full operating temperature.

 

Agreed, and I follow that as well. Warm up for a few minutes at idle and then low-load driving until I get to the highway and then it's boost time (as long as oil pressure is good, ofc)

 

I just follow the owners manual, wait until one bar is showing on the coolant temp graph, and then head out. Drive conservatively for 5-10 minutes, staying out of boost, then good to go!

FYI: Coolant temp is usually 126-128 degrees F when temps begin to register on the display.

 

Exactly - so if you drive off right away in the summer you are getting magical wear also if you are in that boat.


One thing I'd like to point out is that oil temp != coolant temp. Just because your car has reached the settling point on the coolant temp gauge does not mean the oil has done the same. Boosting to the moon when just-warm can be bad where your car allows full boost (if the ecu is still controlling boost) because the coolant is up to temp but it doesn't know the oil temp. If nothing else your WGA spring hasn't warmed up yet and you probably spike each time you spool. This is especially noticeable if you have an MBC or a aftermarket EBC that has poor feedback response. Usually I wait until fully warm (coolant) for any boost, then keep boost low for another 5-10 minutes of actual driving while everything else warms up too.

 

I do the exact same.

 

I'm not sure I would call what the Mr has launch control ... More like a two step ... Just because we find a use for it in other ways doesn't mean it was expressly made for that reason ...

I'm not saying to wait till your motor is warm and then beat the **** out of all the cold drive line parts ... Hell I can barely shift till the tranny is warmed up when its 10 degrees outside