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Evo ECM Vs Ralliart ECM? Need advice

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Old Aug 8, 2020 | 04:37 PM
  #16  
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So bench flash complete, issue still persists. Any idea what else might be causing the issue? If the pinout for the ECUs are the same, I have no idea what else could be causing the issues.

Edit: I tested injector #4 pin and it's stuck on 5v from when the car is on (obviously not right). I'm completely lost, I can't imagine why the ECU wouldn't be able to communicate with the right harness model. There's nothing between the engine harness and the rest of the engine bay, so what would need rewiring?

Last edited by Cole Crouter; Aug 8, 2020 at 05:36 PM.
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Old Aug 8, 2020 | 07:20 PM
  #17  
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You can follow the diagnosis routine for each code from the service manual. Perhaps the ECU is damaged? Was it working properly before the transmission swap?

Regarding the injector connector, one pin should be around 12v and the other one around 2.5v.
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Old Aug 8, 2020 | 08:02 PM
  #18  
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You're right, I'll have to check the manual.

Tested an injector: ignition, one side is 12v, other side has nothing.

The ECU did work before, but it's entirely possible that I fried it at some point. I'll have a better look tomorrow and see if I can diagnose specific codes.
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Old Aug 9, 2020 | 12:13 PM
  #19  
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Check if this can help:




Injector
Pin #1 -> 12V
Pin #2 -> 2.55V

Ignition coil
Pin #1 -> Not wired
Pin #2 -> 4.9V
Pin #3 -> Ground
Pin #4 -> 12V

MAF sensor
Pin #1 -> 4.6V
Pin #2 -> 12V
Pin #3 -> 0V
Pin #4 -> Ground

Throttle body
Pin #1 -> 0V
Pin #2 -> 0V
Pin #3 -> Ground
Pin #4 -> 4.8V
Pin #5 -> 4.9V
Pin #6 -> 0V

I noticed one curious thing: if I turn ACC on with MAF and throttle body plugs disconnected, I get the same codes as yours (P0113, P0123, P0222).
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Old Aug 9, 2020 | 02:51 PM
  #20  
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All readings line up with what you posted, which I guess is a good sign. I had the MAF unplugged (waiting on new intake), and that gets rid of the IAT warning. But the throttle error

I tried the old harness out, readings are the same, so I can't imagine what difference there might be. All the pins on the throttle are ok, is it possible that the thing is just fried? I might have to make a call to the dealership later this week and ask a couple questions.

How likely is it that the throttle itself needs to be required? Since the sensor and motor share the same connector, if my throttle is expecting power on one pin, but power is going into the motor pins, that would explain the horrible noise coming from it.

I'll keep looking around and see if I can piece something together. I also noticed there is no fuel pressure. I've unplugged the line, and when I jump the starter, nothing comes out.

Edit: throttle is no longer making that horrible noise, not sure if that's a good thing, or the throttle is fried. EvoScan reads 13% throttle even when the sensor isn't plugged in.

Last edited by Cole Crouter; Aug 9, 2020 at 03:04 PM.
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Old Aug 9, 2020 | 03:12 PM
  #21  
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If you move the throttle plate using your hand, is there any change in Evoscan reading?

Regarding the fuel issue, have you sorted the P0183 error? It may be related (or not).
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Old Aug 9, 2020 | 04:07 PM
  #22  
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When I move the throttle plate, the reading stays the same. Makes me think that "13%" might be some random number, or that it's just storing it's last known value (13% sounds right for idle)?

Fuel issue isn't resolved. Took a look at the fuel wiring, it sounds like the gas level and temperature sensor might be part of the same unit? I couldn't find any wiring for temp sensor, and apparently it's like that on the 8 and 9. If that's the case, gas level is working, so it might be something else.

Also, looks like a lot of people run normally with this code (common with a new fuel pump) so I no longer think that's the culprit. Weird.
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 03:34 AM
  #23  
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The fuel unit connector has 5 wires, two of them are used for fuel pump power and the other three are used for fuel level and temperature (they share the same ground). Some cars don't have a fuel temperature sensor, it's a market thing.

Out of curiosity, which values did you change in ETACS?
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 11:28 AM
  #24  
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So I may not have a fuel temp sensor at all? That's good to know. My main concern is just that I didn't plug the fuel system back in at all. It looked like the harness plugs in near the hood latch in the driver seat from the manual. The guy before me hacked in command start, so I don't know what's original and what's not, so there's a few things still unplugged.

​​​​​You wouldn't happen to know which plug/where it connects, would you? If it was just unplugged, that would fix the biggest of my problems.

As for ETACS, I only changed the transmission type. I might have turned TPMS off, but I don't think I did in the end. Do note, I did modify the tune in the ECU to disable the immobilizer and clutch switch just in case.

Edit: I took a closer look, I'm guessing it's gonna be one of these? I think those are the 4 connectors between the floor harness and the front harness.


Last edited by Cole Crouter; Aug 10, 2020 at 01:37 PM.
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 03:08 PM
  #25  
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The wiring harnesses have changed through the years, so perhaps the service manual isn't 100% accurate for newer cars. Try to change ETACS settings "TCM" and "Shift lever" to "Not present". I don't think it will solve your problems, but we never know...

Regarding the fuel level/temperature wires, I have a spare harness where they are split in two different plugs, one on driver's side (temperature) and the another one on the passenger's side (level). It doesn't match the 2008 service manual, where both connectors are located on driver's side (C-41 / C-47). My car's harness is also different .







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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 03:55 PM
  #26  
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I'll give the ETACs a shot, hopefully that helps out. I still have one of the SST linkages hanging out of my dash, so maybe there's some SST settings stoping me from starting.

As for the plugs, that's actually really good to know. I think there were a couple plugs on the passenger side that were marked as "unused", that I'm not sure if they got plugged back in. I'll take another look.

I found the throttle code in the manual, and some troubleshooting steps. I'll bring a couple multimeters out next time and I'll try to test the throttle itself. I couldn't find a part number for the sensor, so it looks like you have to buy the whole throttle assembly. I'll phone the dealer and see what they say about that too.

Thanks again for the help, I'm on my knees at this point.

Last edited by Cole Crouter; Aug 12, 2020 at 12:17 PM.
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 07:34 PM
  #27  
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Alright, so I noticed one of the connectors between the floor and front harness was unplugged, but there was none on the new harness. I found a plug in the fusebox that I plugged in before, with the same colored wires, plus some more.


The plug on the new harness was not on the old one. I tried splicing it together, but it still doesn't work. I could not find anywhere else to plug this floor harness connector into.

I took some readings off of it. I got 12v, 0.01v, 0.5v. Could you do me a favour: try unplugging this same connector (driver side fusebox) and see if that stops your fuel pump.




​​​​​​Other than that, I can't find anywhere else it might connector. The connector on the old harness fits just fine, so this should be the right wires. All floor harness connectors are connected AFAIK.

Edit: disregard, it looks like that plug was for the roof harness.

Last edited by Cole Crouter; Aug 14, 2020 at 07:43 PM.
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Old Aug 15, 2020 | 02:48 PM
  #28  
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Roof harness patched up. I took off the back seat and traced the fuel pump power wire to the front harness, and it's plugged in. I noticed when I try to fire up the pump with EvoScan, there's a click in the driver side fusebox. However, I took a closer look at the plug for the FP harness, and both poles are 12v???




That doesn't sound right to me. Is it supposed to be like that? At this point, I might just have to handwrite the pump.

Another thing I noticed is relays click in the cabin when I turn the key to ignition. Maybe it isn't an ECU setting that's stopping the car? Starting to sound like maybe harness or ECU.

I tried your suggested changes in ETACS, but no dice.
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Old Aug 15, 2020 | 03:16 PM
  #29  
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How exactly do you try to start the fuel pump using Evoscan?
Regarding the poles voltage, it was supposed to exist some offset, because of the fuel pump resistor, but it shouldn't be a problem at this time. If both pins have 12v, it's actually a good signal. Check if the blue wire in Etacs' C-314 connector is receiving power when you try do start the car. There is a relay inside ETACS that will connect C-314 blue wire to those wires that you have verified.
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Old Aug 15, 2020 | 05:48 PM
  #30  
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C-314 reads 0.2v all the time, with and without starting.

I'm starting to think the ECU is fried. Is it possible that something from the ECM is stoping power from reaching the ETACS unit?
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