Yeah, you wanna see what happens when I try to start it?

Hahaha

Got the airbag plugged in, I had assumed that plug was another cable tie clip.

Swapped out the plug like you said, I'm getting a rear O2 reading in EvoScan, which sounds better (but it only spits the code when the car is running).

When you say speed sensor, do you mean that the C-45 cable (first circle) needs to connect to the "unused" plug? I'll try to look for the ABS wire tomorrow.

 

Nice, fireworks! lol

No! Well, not exactly. We must first track whatever is going to ABS/ASC control unit pins 36/37 AND where is your RR speed sensor going to, then you will be able to tie them together.

Regarding the rear O2, that's weird, it should be in the same connector as the RR speed sensor, so I quite don't understand what is going on. Tracking the rear o2 wires may be helpful.

 

Maybe EvoScan is just lying to me lol.

I'll look for the speed sensor tomorrow and report back. I'll also check those two pins. I wasn't able to get the ACD ECU to mount so it's just hanging around anyway.

 

Alright! Just one note: the ABS/ASC ECU that I was talking about is the one integrated to ABS pump:



You can also try to track the wires coming from engine's ECU pins 35, 40 and 41 (rear O2 sensor).

 

Sounds good, I should be able to check those all no problem.

Btw do know how many teeth should be on the GSR starter? Online says 8, but I figure I should double check before blowing up another starter.

 

Alright, turns out I left both multimeters at my dad's garage, so he's going to bring them in this weekend. He's also trying to weld back up the exhaust manifold. As well, I found the other half of the starter in the transmission, was able to get it out. Good chance that was stopping it from starting as well.

One thing I noticed a while back was my heat seaters weren't working. However, just now I noticed that when the night lights go on, they light up just like the rest of the buttons in the car. I'm guessing GSRs don't come with heated seats, eh? That should all be ETACS, shouldn't it? I'll look at some wiring diagrams later, but that sounds a little weird. (I also noticed that the front cig lighter isn't working, but I couldn't care less about that one, probably unrelated).

 

Alright, so I didn't test the individual pins, but I was able to trace back the rear wheel sensor, and it looks like it does go into one of the two harness plugs. I used that VIN writing program (it's got a nice little DTC reader), and all the ABS, ASC and 4WD systems (and sound) are timing out (no AYC errors, which is cool). I have a feeling something else is screwing us up, here. I know the ASC ECU is plugged in, and obviously the ABS pump is plugged in.

I looked up on Google about people in Evo X's with a single speed sensor unplugged, and none of em had speedometer issues, which makes sense (why would it stop working because of one tire. ASC I can understand). I had another DTC that listed "impossible speedometer reading" or something like that.

I tried messing around with ETACS settings a little bit, but outside of disabling ABS and ASC, I couldn't get anything to fix (makes sense, none of that should've changed on its own).

I also found the problem with the ignition. The relay socket does read 12v at the right time, but for whatever reason, it won't "click" when in place. When I connect it to the battery, it works fine (amperage maybe? I followed the full section in the service manual except for the clutch switch). For now I've run a wire through the firewall. If I don't figure this one out, I'll just buy a other "ASC Off" button and wire in a hidden ignition.

Edit: here's my new speedometer for the time being:

 

In ETACS settings, ABS should be "not present" and ASC should be "present". That's how it comes from factory. I can track the wires from ASC ECU later and tell you where each pin should be connected, that may help.

Which ignition relay did you test? And how did you do the tests?

Did you ever connect the G/Yaw sensor? It is connected to ASC ECU pins 22 and 29.

Some fuses to check:
Fusible links # 26, 27, 34, 36
ETACS fuses # 2, 5, 8, 9, 12, 17
Engine relay box fuse # 30

Relay A-26X

 

I set it all back to that. Do you think there's anything I'd have to do to disable AYC?

A-28X was the relay I was checking.

I'd have to double check, but I'm pretty sure all fuses and relays are good. The G/Yaw sensor is plugged in, should be working (I don't think I smacked it against anything).

Edit: I got my starter issue fixed, but the car won't start. I checked cylinder 2 injectors and spark (my tester didn't fit into the hole, so I had to test outside the block) and it was fine. Obviously I'll have to go back and check each one, but it doesn't even sound like the car is trying.

It doesn't sound like the compression is entirely gone, but there's absolutely no attempt to start. Is it possible a fouled up cam sensor would do it? I don't know enough about how that system works to make a good guess.

I'll probably have to start another thread with more details.

 

No new developments, but I have some theories. I went to work playing around with the ETACS unit and wiring. Everything seems in good shape. Lots of the issues seem to revolve around C-301, which is plugged in properly. It's always possible that Junction 2 is having problems, but it wasn't touched and out of the way, so I find it unlikely.

In the troubleshooting guide, there's lot of mention of the KOS system being trouble. That could explain the speedometer and key troubles. Later I'll try bench flashing the Ralliart ROM back and see what happens.
I also hacked out an old command start that the previous owner put in, so I guess there's always a chance that's my problem.

I was able to get some new codes to come up too:
Immobilizer:
- B2102
- U1412
- C1901
- U1417

After taking a closer look, it looks like the ACD ECU isn't connecting to anything. It has DTCs for timeouts on basically everything including ETACS (U0141, U0431). Both things should be connected on that end, so that's strange. I might chalk it up a lack of AYC system plugged in, but that still seems unlikely because it doesn't explain not being to connect to anything else.

 

So I've found the cause of the problem. I think there's some sort of short in the instrument harness. That also explains the radio and ABS pump not working. I'm following the service manual, but something very clearly doesn't make sense to me: the connectors C-317 and C-107 do not match with the pictures. See below:



The manual says that the radio and C-317 connect via a red-white wire. I've marked off the actual pins with the red-white wires, but those aren't the ones indicated by the diagram. Not to mention, C-317 is completely flipped haha (8 on one side, 6 on other).

No continuity on either side on any except for ground (black). I checked power draw on the battery and got 2.6 amps with C-317 plugged in, 0.1 without it plugged in, and 0.8 without it plugged in and my phone charging (I might be off by a digit there). No wonder we've gone through so many batteries haha. I should mention that the instrument harness was not touched originally, making this strange

 

That's weird. However, the pinouts in service manual should be the view of the connector from its back side, thus it isn't flipped

 

Ah that makes a little more sense haha

 

I tested the right wires this time (all red-white ) and what I'm seeing is pretty interesting. The two non-MMCS radio connectors ground themselves (without C-317 plugged in), however this is no continuity between the red-white ends of the harness. However, the other plugs (gauge cluster, hazard/airbag thing, etc) are getting power and working fine (I'm guessing they're getting power from different plugs). If all that's affected is the radio, I'll probably just run a line from the fuse and splice it into the radio and call it a day.
As for the short, I found (at least one of them is) at fuse 8. Unfortunately, fuse 8 is hooked up to:
So maybe I'll hold off for now.

As for the ASC stuff, I always assumed my problem was with one of the CAN lines not being connected, but it sounds like the ABS pump connects through the AWC ECU. That being said, it's totally possible that the AWC ECU is just giving me a hard time. I heard on threads where people did turbo swaps on stock Lancers that they had to disable the ASC or whatever in ETACS to stop the ECU from freaking out, but I don't want to disable AWC lol. I checked the wiring and it's get 12v and ground at least.
Do the Evo AWC units have both slots plugged in? I only have the one big connector for it. I never got thrown around hard, but maybe it's just dead.

 

Hi mate. Check your ASC/ABS connector for the following:
Pins #1, #2 and #32 should receive power
Pins #16 and #47 should be grounded
Pin #12 should be connected to ECU's pin #90
Pin #13 should be connected to ECU's pin #91
Pin #18 should be connected to AWC pin #9 AND G/Yaw #2
Pin #19 should be connected to AWC pin #10 AND G/Yaw #3
Pin #22 should be connected to G/Yaw #1
Pin #29 should be connected to G/Yaw #5

The other 8 pins are connected to the wheels speed sensor (1 pair for each wheel).

Only one connector is plugged to the AWC ECU.