It's definitely possible. How about ETACS C-307 pin #1? It should be at the same voltage as the pins that you have checked before (12v). What are your curren error codes? Same as before?
You can also check ECU's pint #96. It should be grounded in order to activate the ETACS fuel pump relay. So it won't be grounded when only ACC is on, but when the fuel pump is supposed to prime.
Sorry, I think I have something wrong here:
I was measuring the C-307 wire, not C-314 pins. Both set of pins measure 0v at all times. As for ECU #96, no continuity 0v when ACC, but 0.2v when key is out.
It wouldn't be the end of the world to wire up the fuel pump manually, and put in an ignition switch for now. With the fuel pump hotwired and jumping the starter, I was actually able to run the engine for a few seconds.
I'm gonna put it all back together and tow it home next weekend. Hate to stoop this low, but I might bring it to the dealer, and pay them a couple hundred to figure out what the problem is.
eBay ECU is lost at customs for now, so I'll have to see when/if it shows up.
C-307 looks good. The correct C-314 connector may have only one blue wire or a blue wire and something else. The blue wire is much thinner than the wires from the current connector. The connector housing itself is identical.
Edit: this is the correct location for the white plug with thick wires:
You're a genius!! I hear the fuel pump fire when I turn the key.
Mind if I fire my last few missing connectors by you?
This one goes up way back into the driver-side wheel well.
These two come out from behind the dash, but they look like they come from the head unit/radio, not the front harness. This would make sense because my head unit is current dead.
Knowing the key starts the fuel pump, we know that the key works. I checked the harness line, and sure enough the "ignition-st" pin is working. On the fusebox, it looks like the pin for the relay is going 12v when the key is turned.
I'll double check the starter relay. Fingers crossed that's all it takes to get the key working.
Well I'll be damned; she runs!!!!! Huge downpipe leak (very loud), no speedometer, but she works. The throttle stills acts up when it's off, but seems to work fine will running.
I don't have a yaw sensor, so that's fine, and the front 02 spit errors once I started, so I'll keep an eye out. On that note, do you happen to know where the speed sensor is? Hahaha.
if I ever meet you out in the world, I'm buying you a beer.
Great news! Did you change the C-316 connector? I'm curious about the correct place of the plug that you have connected before. If you can track it, I'll try to locate the position in my car.
Regarding the yaw sensor, are you sure? The parts catalog shows some part number for Canadian Ralliarts:
The speed is actually calculated by the reading of all 4 ABS sensors (one for each wheel), I guess.
Edit: do you have anything connected to this plug? Passenger's side
I connected C-316 back and re-soldered the wires. The roof lights still don't work, so I'm not entirely sure haha.
ABS isn't connecting, so that answers that question.
I'll have to double check, but I think that I don't have anything plugged in there, taped up just like yours. I didn't spend too much time up there, so I could be wrong.
I took the car for a ride home (~1 hour). It was awesome, the car was so ******* fast. About 1/3 through, I got a boost leak and limped home. Car died as I pulled into the driveway (hopefully just overheating/fumes). I'll get back on it Wednesday and I'll look into that leak, plus the rest of the wiring.
Ok, I that connector with 6 positions but only 5 wires that was connected to ETACS C-316 is actually C-45, which doesn't exhist in your harness. It carries signal for rear right ABS sensor and rear O2 sensor. That C-45 must be connected to that "empty" plug at passenger's side. Will try to make some instructions tomorrow. The correct C-316 only have three wires. Don't modify anything yet, you may end up damaging something.
Sorry for the late reply. Everything looks accounted for on this side.
One last question: any idea what plugs into the knee airbag? I made the mistake of leaving it until after I put all the trim back together. I don't see any extra plugs laying around, so I lost it somewhere.
I replaced the plugs, now she won't start. I'm not sure how the coil packs work, but shouldn't there be a physical connection to the spark plugs?
I read a "possible misfire" code earlier, so I'm just praying that everything is fine. It also gives "engine service required" and "engine overheating stop safely", but only when I pull the key out. Hoping it's just grumpy.
Starter blew up also, making some scary noises
Not sure if that's operable or not, so I'm going back to the dealer today.
That's odd.
1) Here's a picture of my ETACS plugs, for reference:
2) This one should be the plug for knee air bag:
3) The coil pack positive side is connected to the top of the spark plug. The ground connection is done by the threads of the spark plug when it is attached to the head.
4) Some material of your starter seems to be missing:
5) You must find a way to connect your rear right wheel speed sensor to your ABS/ASC control unit (if you haven't done it yet). Can you verify if any of the wires of the connectors with the yellow circle are connected to ABS/ASC control unit pins 36 and 37? Can you also figure out where your rear right wheel speed sensor wires are connected?