EVO X break in period?
Your gonna end up driving it hard one day or another. Take it up to 5k a few times, if you bought it with more then 0 miles on it, a salesman probably already took it to 7k.
Come to think of it. I have never heard of a case where a car had major damage because of a improper break in. Ever when it comes to recent cars. My car had around 300-500 miles when I took it from the dealer. I got extra cash off though, don't care really as long as there is nothing wrong. At first I thought that there might be but I came here and found out that they run like poo up top thanks to being rich and taper off boost like crazy.
Last edited by love9sick; Mar 28, 2008 at 02:08 AM.
I personally would follow the owners manual. And when you hit the 5k mark, change your oil to REGULAR and drive for maybe 1k (just to be cautious). After that, change your oil again to Synthetic.
The reason behind that is because Regular oil is closer to the oil that they put into the car for the break in. So that way, you're not putting too much stress onto the engine, tranny, ACD, etc. Then, after everything get's use to the regular oil, changing it to Synthetic will be fine because Synthetic is closer to Regular.
If that was confusing, just think about it for a little bit and then it will start to make sense. My friend works for Honda and that's what he recommends. But of course, that's just a recommendation.
The reason behind that is because Regular oil is closer to the oil that they put into the car for the break in. So that way, you're not putting too much stress onto the engine, tranny, ACD, etc. Then, after everything get's use to the regular oil, changing it to Synthetic will be fine because Synthetic is closer to Regular.
If that was confusing, just think about it for a little bit and then it will start to make sense. My friend works for Honda and that's what he recommends. But of course, that's just a recommendation.
^Well, that's a great theory except for the fact that the EVO comes from the factory with mobil 1 synthetic, NOT conventional oil. If people did what you have suggested they would destroy the engine, as it even specifically states in the manual to NEVER run any oil that is not 100% synthetic. Conventional oils are only used in the break in process of older engines and new engines that are not performance oriented. Racing engines like that in the EVO will fall apart with conventional oil.
What we understand as the 'break in' or sealing of the piston rings etc. that the engine undergoes is done within a couple hundred miles on normal engines. The few exceptions are like the s2000 with it's FRM cylinder walls that require longer break in. As much as we'd like to think otherwise, unless you got your car with 0 miles, someone else probably already did you the favor.
Racing engines are broken in on dyno, and raced before they have 200 miles on them.
That being said, the differentials, transmission, etc. do often require a longer break-in process. So I'd definitely take it easy on the transmission [includes clutch] and the connecting drivetrain components. The I'd wait until at least 5k to replace the transmission and differential case fluids unless you plan on racing it in which synthetic products are probably better for long term durability.
So if you take a few trips to redline don't worry about it too much, but avoid launching the car or extremely aggressive shifting. I'd suggest checking out evo break in which will link you to various auto forum threads about break in procedures.
Racing engines are broken in on dyno, and raced before they have 200 miles on them.
That being said, the differentials, transmission, etc. do often require a longer break-in process. So I'd definitely take it easy on the transmission [includes clutch] and the connecting drivetrain components. The I'd wait until at least 5k to replace the transmission and differential case fluids unless you plan on racing it in which synthetic products are probably better for long term durability.
So if you take a few trips to redline don't worry about it too much, but avoid launching the car or extremely aggressive shifting. I'd suggest checking out evo break in which will link you to various auto forum threads about break in procedures.
yes i agree, but the racing engine,part. Those engines are changed or partial changed very often. No need for long engine life. The longest is the La mans 24 hr but that is extreme and also they pull out many times to change parts etc.
So i would say if you dont have a crew in your drive way , i would follow the mitsubishi break in instructions. Better safe then sorry.
also every car makers have different standards for break in the car. So if something work for the Honda or the Z06 not necessary will work on the Evo.
I would highly recommend the Evo manual suggested break in period.
You should read the manual anyway
bealive it or not, you might get some good stuff out of it.
I would highly recommend the Evo manual suggested break in period.
You should read the manual anyway
bealive it or not, you might get some good stuff out of it.
^Well, that's a great theory except for the fact that the EVO comes from the factory with mobil 1 synthetic, NOT conventional oil. If people did what you have suggested they would destroy the engine, as it even specifically states in the manual to NEVER run any oil that is not 100% synthetic. Conventional oils are only used in the break in process of older engines and new engines that are not performance oriented. Racing engines like that in the EVO will fall apart with conventional oil.
Thanks, I'm gonna let my friend know that. It's good that the EVO comes from the factory with Mobil 1 synthetic, that way I don't have to switch out the oil anytime soon!!!
WRONG
^Well, that's a great theory except for the fact that the EVO comes from the factory with mobil 1 synthetic, NOT conventional oil. If people did what you have suggested they would destroy the engine, as it even specifically states in the manual to NEVER run any oil that is not 100% synthetic. Conventional oils are only used in the break in process of older engines and new engines that are not performance oriented. Racing engines like that in the EVO will fall apart with conventional oil.
let's assume that mobile 1 is indeed a group 3 base stock motor oil. then your assumption that conventional oil will destroy the "racing engines like that in the evo will fall apart with conventional oil" may need reexamination.
either that or research oils that are certifiably group 4 or 5, and use that instead. think of it like a modification. mitsubishi recommends that owners replace all parts with OEM components; i think we all know this is hardly the case. replacing your motor's oil with mobil 1 just because the oil cap says so is an oddly un-EVO way of doing things, don't you think?
So what did you all do? When did you change *your* oil? I'm pushing about 700 miles on mine, and I've got an appointment to do the factory reflash on saturday, and I'm thinking to see if I should ask them to change it or not. I've taken it easy so far, not really going above 4k rpm, a bit more on occasion. I really want to get up on it, but maybe it's okay to just change the oil at 5k mi?
I was told by the dealer, South Coast Mitsu (asked several guys). No more than 5k for the first 1000 miles. and do an oil change at 1000. But some of them said the 1k oil change is optional only...
anyways, some of you said change ALL of the fluids.. so what's ALL? Engine fluid, Tranny Fluid, anything else?
anyways, some of you said change ALL of the fluids.. so what's ALL? Engine fluid, Tranny Fluid, anything else?
Evolving Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 166
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From: Standing at the edge of the gene pool with a flamethrower...
Old thread I know but...
The manual for evo x states:
1)Avoid reving the engine. Do not exceed 5,000 RPM for the first 600 miles.
2)Avoid rough driving such as fast starts, prolonged highspeed driving and rough shifting for the first 300 miles.
With that in mind..... I like the idea if scientifically breaking in the rings in the first 20 miles by controlled pulls and decelerations.
But that unless you got your new car with zero miles on it that just isnt happening. I drove my Evo X off the lot with 47 miles on it. Im going to assume that some of those miles were somewhat hard but I have no idea.
So now that I have 130 miles, will it even do any good to go out to some country road to do some hard accelerations followed by deccelerations?
Currently Im just driving the car "briskly", not going above 5,000 RPM, and accelerating and decelrating on the freeway. Im not keeping a constant speed on the freeway though the manual doesnt say anything about constant speeds on the freeway but rather "Prolonged highspeed driving". I would would not consider driving 80 MPH on the freeway even for a few hours highspeed driving but Im not sure.
Any comments?
Any machinists or engine builders on here with thoughts?
Thanks
1)Avoid reving the engine. Do not exceed 5,000 RPM for the first 600 miles.
2)Avoid rough driving such as fast starts, prolonged highspeed driving and rough shifting for the first 300 miles.
With that in mind..... I like the idea if scientifically breaking in the rings in the first 20 miles by controlled pulls and decelerations.
But that unless you got your new car with zero miles on it that just isnt happening. I drove my Evo X off the lot with 47 miles on it. Im going to assume that some of those miles were somewhat hard but I have no idea.
So now that I have 130 miles, will it even do any good to go out to some country road to do some hard accelerations followed by deccelerations?
Currently Im just driving the car "briskly", not going above 5,000 RPM, and accelerating and decelrating on the freeway. Im not keeping a constant speed on the freeway though the manual doesnt say anything about constant speeds on the freeway but rather "Prolonged highspeed driving". I would would not consider driving 80 MPH on the freeway even for a few hours highspeed driving but Im not sure.
Any comments?
Any machinists or engine builders on here with thoughts?
Thanks
Evolving Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
From: Standing at the edge of the gene pool with a flamethrower...
Well...
I called a service dept at a mitsubish dealer close to me and they state that the engines are broken in at the factory before the car is even assembled. They went on to say its not like a motorcycle engine or newly rebuilt engine that needs to go through a break-in cycle to seat the rings properly. They recommend 3700 miles for engine oil replacement and 30,000 for drivetrain lube replacement.
Then I called South Coast Mitsubishi and spoke to their service dept and they stated the cars are "Ready to go when they reach the dealer, no break-in necessary"and that the recommended break-in cycle in the onwers manual is "...a dislamier from mitsubishi". They recommend 3500 miles for engine oil replacement and 15,000 miles for drivetrain lube replacement.
Both places told me to drive like I want to.
So, with that in mind I think Ill keep the RPM below 5000 until the 600 mile mark, and Ill change the drivetrain lube at 1500 miles with synthetic.
Then engine Im not yet sure still have some investigation to do there-
I called a service dept at a mitsubish dealer close to me and they state that the engines are broken in at the factory before the car is even assembled. They went on to say its not like a motorcycle engine or newly rebuilt engine that needs to go through a break-in cycle to seat the rings properly. They recommend 3700 miles for engine oil replacement and 30,000 for drivetrain lube replacement.
Then I called South Coast Mitsubishi and spoke to their service dept and they stated the cars are "Ready to go when they reach the dealer, no break-in necessary"and that the recommended break-in cycle in the onwers manual is "...a dislamier from mitsubishi". They recommend 3500 miles for engine oil replacement and 15,000 miles for drivetrain lube replacement.
Both places told me to drive like I want to.
So, with that in mind I think Ill keep the RPM below 5000 until the 600 mile mark, and Ill change the drivetrain lube at 1500 miles with synthetic.
Then engine Im not yet sure still have some investigation to do there-










