What oil to use on an X
ALL Synthetics are not alike... Not even close... Saying that oil is the same as who botled it is like saying a Champion Labs Filter is the same as XYZ Filter because it comes out of the same factory...
That oil is a low grade Hydro-Cracked oil only allowed to call itself synthetic by law.
Just as Castrol SynTec, Rotella, Valvoline and the rest are...
Maybe I am in one of my Moods because I haven't slept all night, but I just get Burned Up inside when I see people blindly following some generic term.
You have a Nice car, and it is not a cheap car... It is Inexpensive to buy the Best Oil and Filters you can when you start thinking about the cost of Turbo's, Cam's, Heads and even complete engines...
Same thing with your fuel.. Cost of Injector's, lower fuel mileage and HP, carbon buildup...
My Van has only seen AMSOIL in 320,000 of the 345,000 miles it has on it. Rarely has it seen any off brand gas.. I usually stay with Conoco (Phillips), BP and Mobil/EXXON.. Rare occassion when I go to an off brand... there is a reason besides price..
I have done 1/10 the oil changes in those 345 K than other vehicles with that mileage and I use AMSOIL PI In the fuel..
In that 345K, There has Never been any Internal work done nor have I ever had to replace an injector..
My MotorCycle's, My Lancer and my 2 Trucks along with all my lawn equipment, Only get AMSOIL and AMSOIL Filters...
I buy good stuff and like to keep it that way with proper maintenance. I have spent over 35 years of my life working on equipment. When I had my first shop as a teenager, I realized something Real Quick.... Oil, is the LifeBlood of your Engine, the Filter is the Kidney that keeps that blood clean...
Come February, 25 years will be with the best oil money can buy, AMSOIL. If I find a Better Product and a Better Company, I will sell that.. Hasn't happened yet and trust me, I am always looking.
OK.. Off my SoapBox... Going to try and get some sleep...The Sun is up and the birds chirping...
Doc
I was wondering how many posts would go by before Doc chimed in. I've been running the SS0 0W-30 and the MTG (in the transmission of course
) for about 2k miles now and am very happy with both products.
Last edited by stokEd; Nov 29, 2008 at 07:49 AM. Reason: Proof reading deficient.
I am hoping the word you skipped is Happy or Satisfied at the least... LOL
As far as chiming in.... I am an AMSOIL Dealer.... "I may Doze, but I never Close" LOL
Doc
What I use on my car is the Castrol Syntec 0W30 European Formula Full Syntethic ( Made in Germany one ) - I usually get them for 25$ for 5 quarts at the local autozone when they run their syntec sales.
I use Amsoil MTG on the Tranny, and SVG on the rear diff. ACD is Mitsu LSD Gear Fluid though.
Can't justify paying big bucks for Amsoil Oil in the engine when I'm just going to replace it within 5K miles.
I use Amsoil MTG on the Tranny, and SVG on the rear diff. ACD is Mitsu LSD Gear Fluid though.
Can't justify paying big bucks for Amsoil Oil in the engine when I'm just going to replace it within 5K miles.
What I use on my car is the Castrol Syntec 0W30 European Formula Full Syntethic ( Made in Germany one ) - I usually get them for 25$ for 5 quarts at the local autozone when they run their syntec sales.
I use Amsoil MTG on the Tranny, and SVG on the rear diff. ACD is Mitsu LSD Gear Fluid though.
Can't justify paying big bucks for Amsoil Oil in the engine when I'm just going to replace it within 5K miles.
I use Amsoil MTG on the Tranny, and SVG on the rear diff. ACD is Mitsu LSD Gear Fluid though.
Can't justify paying big bucks for Amsoil Oil in the engine when I'm just going to replace it within 5K miles.
That is still a Hydro-Cracked oil only allowed to call itself synthetic by law...
Glad you use what AMSOIL Products you do, but would like you to try some oil analysis.
Doc
The Recommended Viscosity on an EVO is a 30 wgt at Operating Temps (right hand number). Running a higher viscosity oil such as a 40 or 50 wgt is not necessary, provides no better protection and in fact will drag off HP, Fuel mileage and may slowly cause internal parts to wear prematurly due to oil starvation.
The cold starting viscosity, number on the left followed by a "W", is measured at 32 Degrees F.. So, the lower the number on the left, when followed by a "W", means your engine will start easier in cold temps.
Doc
As far as Mobil 1 in OEM Cars.... It is a good oil no doubt. Not the best and as the OEM's get it below cost and Mobil 1 Pays partially for the printing of the Owners Manuals and the manufacture of the oil caps with Mobil 1 on them, it is no surprise that the OEM's use it in their High Perf Cars...
Doc
Doc
I still use it because it's easy to find, but I always make sure I change the oil immediately before a track day.
This has been brought up many times...
The Recommended Viscosity on an EVO is a 30 wgt at Operating Temps (right hand number). Running a higher viscosity oil such as a 40 or 50 wgt is not necessary, provides no better protection and in fact will drag off HP, Fuel mileage and may slowly cause internal parts to wear prematurly due to oil starvation.
The cold starting viscosity, number on the left followed by a "W", is measured at 32 Degrees F.. So, the lower the number on the left, when followed by a "W", means your engine will start easier in cold temps.
Doc
The Recommended Viscosity on an EVO is a 30 wgt at Operating Temps (right hand number). Running a higher viscosity oil such as a 40 or 50 wgt is not necessary, provides no better protection and in fact will drag off HP, Fuel mileage and may slowly cause internal parts to wear prematurly due to oil starvation.
The cold starting viscosity, number on the left followed by a "W", is measured at 32 Degrees F.. So, the lower the number on the left, when followed by a "W", means your engine will start easier in cold temps.
Doc