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Took the restrictor pill out

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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 03:16 PM
  #31  
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I find the restrictor pill gives a non standard clutch feel.

ie one day it feels good, next day its a bit different.

removing the pill fixed this for me.

my engagement was much lower on day 1, but now its back to what it was..

probably need to rebleed!
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 04:13 AM
  #32  
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bringin back from the dead but i just came across this post i never knew about this .. seems like a good way to improve that pedal feel, now is there any long term bad effects from doing this? And the clutch has to be bled after doing this am i correct? Clarify this plz thanks guys gals
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 04:54 AM
  #33  
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yes you need to bleed the clutch line, which is a two man job and a bit of a pain... (unless u got a machine)

long term, well you will actually lengthen the life of the clutch, since it wont slip as much...

BUT - at the cost of other things in the driveline... however this damage may be bugger all in the scheme of things...
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 05:07 AM
  #34  
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Yes i did a SS line a couple of years ago and opted to leave my pill in because i was worried about it putting more shock on my drive train. The clutch is the fuse you know. Rather blow the fuse (clutch) then the expensive circuitry (T-case, rear diff, tranny). Thats how I was taught anyway.

Although I am not considering taking the pill out as my stock clutch feel does suck compared to basically every other car..
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 05:26 AM
  #35  
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guy, i dont think removing the restricter pill in some cases does the job. its because your still forgetting even though your using the buddy system your leaving out that you need two hands in the engine bay pressing the clutch fork to the right(standing in front of the engine) to let the rest of the air out of the slave cylinder. FYI. i used the buddy system left hand with a wood stick pressing against the clutch fork and my right hand closing the bleeder. at the same time the man in car holding the clutch pedal in. it makes sense, do this way.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 07:46 AM
  #36  
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If you know how to drive a manual correctly then the "shock" is that to when the pill was in. NO I'm not saying slip the heck out of your clutch either, or removing the pill would be pointless.
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 05:40 AM
  #37  
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hmm Im thinking about doin this. Any one in Michigan want to help out?
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 05:47 AM
  #38  
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one of the best mods i did on my 9, and it took about 2 minutes to get out. Actually feels like a true manual now. Best noticed on hills when the clutch used to slowly slip out and cause the car to bog.
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 09:30 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by gizmotoy
There may be advantages to not fully disengaging the clutch when you shift, but the disadvantage is you're going to wear the clutch prematurely. If you like to only slightly push the clutch in when shifting, why not leave it the way it is? It seems like that's exactly what you want.
More likely that you'll prematurely wear the synchros than the clutch.

In any case, you don't *have* to push it all the way to the floor to be fully disengaged. This might just be a matter of semantics, but if you are disengaged you are disengaged, no matter what the pedal position is.

I actually kept the pill on my IX. If I had ever torched the stock clutch (it was getting close) and drag raced at the strip more I would have pulled it. Having it there made it really easy to preload, then side-step at the tree and pull very consistent 1.6s 60' without worrying as much about grenades in my drivetrain.

I also like that during RR you don't unsettle the car as much. I don't want a rubber line to burst, but its another reason I don't mind rubber clutch lines... it is an anolog smoothing to my admittedly very not perfect left foot. (brake lines are a different story...)

I will agree that normal feel is a little better without it though.
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 09:18 AM
  #40  
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Sorry if I missed the post on this, but is this really just as simple as removing the nut and taking out the restrictor then bleeding? A How-to would be awesome.
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 09:23 AM
  #41  
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Very nice info , im gonna go ahead and take out the restrictor pill and see what my clutch feels like.
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 11:42 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by EvilEvo9MR

Couple of pics of the "check valve" or whatever you feel like calling it... lol



So this is exactly what you take out? Spring and all?
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 12:01 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by k20toEVO
So this is exactly what you take out? Spring and all?
Yes.
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 05:27 PM
  #44  
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Yup the spring and the "pill" that is on top of the spring in the picture
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 05:42 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by SiliconTek
Sorry if I missed the post on this, but is this really just as simple as removing the nut and taking out the restrictor then bleeding? A How-to would be awesome.
1. call me
2. I walk over
3. you give me a beer
4. remove stock airbox or intake (depends on intake)
5. put a small dish under the clutchslave cylinder
6. remove lower banjo bolt from slave being careful not to drop the 2 crush washers
7. remove bleeder nipple
8. use a small allen key to poke the pill and spring out
9. wipe crush washers clean and reinstall banjo bolt
10. reinstall bleeder nipple (leave loose)
11. fill fluid reservoir
12. bleed clutch system
13. top off fluid
14. reinstall intake
15. give me another beer
16. tell me to go home

Steps 1, 2, 3, 15, and 16 are optional.


It is an awesome mod, not only does it help your clutch last longer you'll get much more precise and consistent clutch pedal feedback and engagement.
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