AMS only had some very short instructions for their exhaust system install, but the downpipe install bothered me the most.

I found this link that had a hole list of tools: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...tructions.html

It mentions things like needed a tap, swivel sockets, and hose clamps.

Now, I want to have the right tools to do this job, so I need to buy a couple of these, but I wanted to make sure the above referenced thread was not outdated before getting in to all of this. Can anyone offer some suggestions or other threads that provide more detail and pictures of this install?

I really wish the guys at AMS had put up some instructions

EDIT: Here is the parts list the guy has. I removed the trivial stuff and just left the "why the hell do I need this" stuff.

4” stainless steel hose clamp
9/16” or 14mm swivel socket
8x1.25mm tap
¼” drive swivel ratchet (optional, will make you not hate this job)
16mm or 17mm angle wrench
8x1.25 Helicoil kit
2 ea 8x1.25 bolts, approximately 4-5cm long.

 

I can't think of why you would need the 4" clamp or the 8x1.25mm tap, 2 bolts, and helicoil kit.

 

lol ya me neither ROFL the only thing that i would say is the swivel sockets because of that one little bolt on the bottom is kind of a ***** to get to. only thing you need a tap for is if you strip out something or break a bolt off and have to drill and tap it. the clamp and all that lol i have no clue

 

Hose clamp is for the header wrap. I used Thermo Tec, good stuff.

Also needed is I believe a 12mm and/or 14mm ratchet-swivel head combo (box-end) wrench. I had a ***** of a time on a couple lower heat-shield bolts. Oh, don't forget the long extensions for your sockets.

 

Even then it would be a 10x1.25 tap most likely.

 

@EricJ

Have you guys started shipping the most recent batch of downpipes? I heard parts were supposed to be coming in from the foundry on Weds. and things could start shipping as early as Friday. Any updates?

 

Putting on the AMS DP is actually fairly easy. Removing the old OEM one is what is difficult. No matter what brand of DP, you will have the same issues removing the old one. What makes it tough is accessibility to the bolts and nuts and no amount of instructions are going to make that easier. Common sense and penetrating oil (I used wd40, but apparently PB blaster is better) is what you need.

 

Another question - the original post I referenced above indicates needing a jack capable of lifting the car 24" or higher. Is this true? That is really high. I have an AC jack that can lift to about 20".

Thoughts? Any reason this is a huge necessity? I can go pick up a new jack, but that would kind of suck.

 

Don't even think about doing this and working under your car if you don't have jack stands or ramps. You are going to spend a lot of time under your car and apply force etc. You can probably put the left wheel on a ramp, but one of the bolts is easier to reach with a long extension from the right wheel well, so you must take the wheel off. Make the investment in the the right tools and quality equipment, or get it done at a shop.

 

PB Blaster will be your friend on removing the factory downpipe. It's a tedious removal, once removed it's pretty easy to install and remove an aftermarket downpipe.

Good Luck!

Michael

 

Double Post.

 

I have jack stands, which I have always used. They'll probably get the car up around 16 inches or so.

I can go buy ramps, but honestly these worry me more since driving up on to them on a bare concrete floor seems dangerous.

I am grabbing a ton of PBBlaster today. Can I pre-apply that a few days in a row before even removing anything - will that help/be possible?

 

Block out at least 8, likely 12 hours for the job if you're asking these questions.

I've had the (pleasure?) of pulling and replacing the o2 housing 4 times on my car. It's a beating. The AMS is harder than the UR piece for a couple reasons actually.

1. it's heavier
2. it's flex section actually flexes so it's helpful to have two people to help maneuver it into place
3. they include the tab that mounts to the block, which makes it a touch harder to get into place (especially if you mount the stud before putting it in).

If you have a local shop that has done one before and charges $200-300 to install one, then PAY THE MONEY.

 

$200-300 seems kinda steep to me.. if it was $100 i would be all for it but dang

 

Surprised you didn't link your own video ETS!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfwVDF3V4xU