I'm installing my FP on saturday and i'm trying to get some info from guys that have installed theirs. Is there any unexpected parts i need to buy ahead of time? like bolts that for sure brake or something like that?

 

Read this: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...tions_RevA.pdf. Everything you will need to know minus the modification of the heat shields and bits. Also, soak all bolts that interface with the cast iron manifold or O2 housing with PB Blaster 12+ hours in advance. And I mean SOAK. People make the mistake of either not using a true penetrating lubricant, or not leaving it to sit... hence broken bolts. I had absolutely no trouble with my O2 housing because I sprayed it well ahead of time.

 

FP what?

 

be careful putting the o-ring'd oil return adapter back in... we have torn them ;(

cb

 

Install is the same for any direct stock-replacement turbo... FP Red, FP Green, doesn't matter

 

any tips on how to do it? or just very very carefully hahaha....

 

little oil on the o-ring and be careful

the garrett has a flexible oil return, stock doesnt, so just be careful.

cb

 

sounds good, i'll be as careful as possible with that.

any other tips anybody?

ps. i'm buying PB blaster tonight and spraying some bolts tomorrow too. oh and I already had that garrett "how to" but thanks.

 

when i installed my red, i reused everything and have any problems...
just be careful and precise and you wont rip or tear anything...

dont over-torque and dont under torque either...
also be careful not to twisted or bend the oil feed line too much...

so far ive installed 2 this way with 0 problems, no leaks...

also if you run a o2 housing with a divorved wastegate setup, do not use the oem gasket as you will be defeating the purpose of the divorced flange and pipe setup...run it straight up, you will not have any leaks

Daniel

 

All good points, the oil feed line can fatique where it connects to the block and spring a leak from vibration over time. Make sure you use the compressor side bracket bolts PLUS the turbo exhaust side and/or O2 DP bracket bolt to anchor the passenger side of the turbo assembly. Turns out the dealership left the turbo exhaust side bolt out and when I installed a UR O2 DP that didn't have a bracket to the block I was only using one anchor point for the turbo for a while which was bad news.

Assume it's going to take 8-12 hrs for your first turbo swap and that future work will be easier once you know what to expect. The PB blaster soaking into the threads makes a huge difference for avoiding snapped nuts and bolts, be sure to use some anti-sieze when assembling again so if you need to service any of those areas it will be easy going. I recently noticed that the silver anti-sieze is 1600F rated while the copper stuff is 2000F and probably better for exhaust components.

 

Definitely PB blaster the crap out of everything! And put anti-seize on everything (well, exhaust stuff) when you put it back together.

Also, do not over torque the bolts going into an aluminum block! Stripping out the threads in the block is bad news.... One that comes to mind is the bolt that attaches the compressor side bracket to the block.

You'll want a magnetic picker-upper thing because you will drop a bolt or washer here and there.

A 14mm wobble joint is PRICELESS! Go get one! It helps for the bolt on the bottom of the turbine housing, and also to get to the nuts for the exhaust manifold.

 

little update: i spent about an hour and a half working on the car this morning just getting everything prepped and i got some other stuff done too haha. i took out the strut bar, intake, heat shields, and disconnected everything from the turbo. then i went ahead and PB blasted every single bolt i could see under the heat shields so it would be easier tomorrow.

I also plan on reusing everything, and since i only have 8k on it i hope nothing is broken or anything. hopefully mine goes as smooth as yours!

so do i have to buy an extra bolt so i can connect it to the exhaust side then? i'm planning on it taking that long, i have all day tomorrow and sunday too if i have to. can i just pick up the anti-seize at my local autozone or what?

PB blaster = great investment! i have a magnetic thingy haha, it came in handy today already. i also have this bad *** light that's magnetic so i can mount it to stuff inside the engine and it works great since its LED's. i saw that bolt that connects the compressor side to the block today and it didn't seem that difficult, i PB blasted that shiz too just incase haha. Do you or anyone else have a link to a wobble joint so i can see what i'm looking for? where do the sell those at? should i get a 10mm too just incase?


Thanks for all the quality responses guys, this is one of the reasons why i love this forum. quality shiz! no moron talk

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/7504999-post34.html

 

where do i get that at?

 

You should have a compressor bracket with 2 bolts, a single bolt leading to the center of the exhaust side of the turbo from below, and another bracket that attaches the O2 housing/O2 DP to the block. The last item may or may not be in place still depending on what you have installed, since many O2 DP's don't bother with this bracket. If that's the case then it's best to make sure you have the bolt installed on the exhaust side of the turbo for proper support of the turbo assembly.