http://www.maperformance.com/map-cra...acuum-kit.html

 

Don't pay for those overpriced shiny valves. I bought 2 off this plastic company online for a lot less money.

I'll try and find a link....

 

you woulnt not worry about blowing your dipstick out and getting oil all over your engine, hood, paint, and front windshield? I bet my car is cleaner then yours.

 

i have some plastic PCV valves, but the OEM valve is plastic, and it leaked. Maybe a metal valve wont leake.

 

when iget one of these shiney new valves, do i leave the old one in place and just put this one before it?

 

Your question referenced to the increasing amount of oil in your catch can, not the dipstick popping out. As you stated, you already solved that problem for the moment.

 

I have been running crank vents for about a month now. I get a lot less blow by.

I am not so certain that a crank vent is needed on the driver's (breather) side. All a crank vent does on that side is block fresh air from getting into the valve cover. I read somewhere that for the engine to run correctly fresh air actually needs to get into the valve cover.

Anyone have an opinion on this?

 

I would vote for at least 1 cracked piston.

 

well we shall see. im gonna put in a crank vent and do some dyno pulls and see what kind of power shes making.

 

You would be better off using a Snap-On video borescope and looking at the edges of pistons 4 and then 1.

Here is what you will likely find, joining a ever growing group of Evo X owners and members of this site.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/8027492-post203.html

 

what caused this?

 

Hey Meat,

My 4G63 with a 30R did this twice:

1) When I had a cracked piston.

2) When my "catch can" (which was just a tiny autozone venting filter) became clogged and there was no way for oil to pass through it anymore.

For something like this, a leakdown test is so much more thorough than a compression test. You can test leakage per cylinder and see a graphical representation on a gauge. Cylinder leakage test kits are pretty inexpensive, but you need access to compressed air. Hope this helps.


Edit: TTP's advice is really sound. When my VIII piston was cracked, we borescoped it after the leakdown test and saw the hairline crack almost end to end.

 

I will have to see who locally can do the video borescope, to see what we can find. My normal shop does not have one.

 

I say stop venting your catchcan and watch it stop filling fast.

My DSM did have high mileage, but with 170 compression in all cylinders, would fully fill the catchcan in a short time. When I switched to a closed system, the filling went away.

 

yes, that is first on ly list. I need to get a new catch can though, the aerospeed "greddy" knock off does not look air tight.