Damn that's a lot of power. I know this sucks but I thank you for testing the limits of the motor. Seems like about the 500 is the limit of the stock 4b11 rods. What are you planning next 2.2L?

 

That is one thought, it is pricey as hell and im not rich and not sponsored so doubtful...but we shall see. It is very tempting, but as i said in another post, the 2.2L basically cries out t3 turbo kit too, so then that is another 4-5 grand, lol.

 

They were basing their advice on the limits for the Evo 8/9, which are very well known since there has been time for plenty of those motors to fail. Nobody can guarantee how strong *your* motor is going to be but I personally wouldn't be worried about a Red on pump. On the dyno that I use that'd be 380whp at the very most. If you're crossing 400whp on a low-reading dyno (Mustang/Dyno Dynamics) then you probably should be nervous.

I was planning for 600 flywheel and knew that I would be crossing the line (a Red on E85, for example). That's why I have Manley I-beams and JE pistons...

 

Id be nervous too

 

^So you just blew your motor? Damn that sucks, I'm sorry man. So since you had your foot in your mouth... do you retract your advice? What should I do?

Is it the tune or the power or both? I'm guessing it's definitely both, but i'm trying to differentiate between minor bolt on power mods vs. Heavy duty power mods. Will bolt-ons and a bad tune cause internals to go bad or will massive power upgrades and a bad tune cause it?

I'm only asking because as I mentioned, when I decided to upgrade my turbo and what not, I can afford to do internals, so should I just go ahead and upgrade the rods and pistons and do the entire head as well?

Last ? ...would it be ok to swap out the internals w/o any power mods or bolt-ons? Example: Replace internals and build the head, but leave stock exhaust, turbo, etc...

 

^Building the motor is never a bad idea...but it isn't necessary until you go to a bigger turbo in my opinion.

I would say my failure was simply 33psi and too much torque for the stock rods to handle. I didn't even raise my rev limiter.

 

Wow, yeah 33psi seems like a lot for a red on stock internals. My plan was to go with a green at 27psi on 93... maybe, I'll rethink that now.

Sorry for your loss Murlo!

 

Give the guy a break man, he's looking at 5k easy...

 

5k would be fine...that is just parts at a minimum. It's looking closer to 10k for everything.

 

ouch.. that suxs dude.

i hope you work it out quickly and cheaply

be interested to see a followup when you do the pull down...

did you get a log of the incident?

 

Oh i'm not giving him a hard time at all. I didn't mean it like "oh you just went out and blew your motor?" I meant it like "the motor just recently blew". I was just rephrasing what he said in an earlier post, I just didn't use his exact terminology. So you were boosting a lot which the rods couldnt handle causing your engine to blow... damn man, again, sorry to hear.

So my next question because i'm curious to know, is how do you increase your rev limiter? isn't that accomplished by changing your cams and strengthening the head?

 

Well, I was talking about the X, wasn't I?
So you're saying that the Red on pump is not capable of 500 flywheel HP?
Actually I am not going to try to achieve that figure, I am going to get about 450 flywheel HP.

So Turbotuffs are overkill here?

 

a green can do 380 whp on pump

red should be able to do about 420 whp on pump

which is about 520 fhp...

more with cams, more with E85

 

I will install BC 272, UICP, ETS 3.5" IC, 800ccm DW, inlet, full 3" TBE w/divorced DP.
That should do, right?

I have a methanol too but I do not now if I want to install it.

 

You increase it during tuning. The springs shall be changed when doing that.