I recently had an ETS DP installed. 1 bolt snapped during removal of the stock o2 housing. The shop had to drill out the bolt while the turbo was still on the car. It was kind of messy because they needed to tap the thread on the turbo since it was marred from drilling out the bolt. Im assuming that there could have been an issue tightening down the dp after all that. During my most recent dyno session, my car couldnt hold boost. The tuner set boost at 26psi and it would drop to 16psi at redline. (note: the psi drop would start at 4000rpm)

Im trying to narrow down the causes of this major drop in boost. Im wondering if a DP to turbo leak could cause the boost to drop..

 

Make sure that all your vacuum lines are hooked back up.

 

Have you had this car on a dyno prior to this? That kind of drop is normal on a stock turbo.

 

How is the turbo spoolup?

While the stock turbo does normally taper from 24-26 psi down to 18 psi past redline it usually doesn't drop much until it hits 5500 rpm's. I would check your internal wastegate actuator to see how much preload there is, possibly just going in a few more turns will hold the boost a bit better as they all seem to be set slightly different from the factory.

There is very little that could go wrong with an O2 DP install besides it blocking off the exhaust flow, even a leak post turbo woudln't restrict turbo boost. If the WG was cracked open slightly off boost and opening a bit early that could explain the loss though.

 

Thanks for the help guys. Im going to check the WG actuator. Would you tighten it more or loosen it up?

 

Don't tighten it down without a retune or if you know what your doing check/log your car with Evoscan.

 

Im supposed to get a retune in a few weeks for a 3port solenoid. Should I wait to mess around with the WG actuator then?

 

Yea, you can do the tightening on the dyno even...all you really need is an air hose.

 

don't even need an airhose...

Why didn't they just pull the hotside? Has to be easier than drilling/tapping ON the car (trust me I tried).

 

No you don't but i have done it both ways, and it is way way easier with an air hose rather than trying to pull the actuator yourself.

 

I dont understand what you guys are talking about. I thought I just had to adjust a nut on the arm of the wastegate. Am I missing something here?

 

What you end up doing is actually loosening the nut and then you screw in the arm itself and the arm becomes shorter...then you butt the nut up against the arm again.

Then it is shorter so you actually have to fight the spring pressure to get the arm back onto the turbo which can be done with brute force, but a little psi on the port makes it a whole lot easier.

 

Ok. Im kind of a retard when it comes to installs. Can you please make it in list form? (Like step 1, 2, 3, etc) I would really appreciate it..

1.
2.
3.
4.
etc...

 

There is a DIY for this either on this site or evoxforums, just check that out

 

Found it!

1. remove the strut tower brace... (14mm)

2. remove the heat shield on the turbo (10mm)

3. wiggle it out of the engine compartment

4. there is a rod going to the hot side of the turbo with a clip on it. loosen the 12mm nut on it

5. take the clip off

6. pop the rod off of the pin

7. tighten it a turn (clockwise toward the wastegate actuator)

8. put back together