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Clutch slipping after 6,000 miles! (never launched it)

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Old Oct 19, 2010, 11:22 AM
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stock car - stock clutch - no mechanical issues - 6000 mile clutch gone = driver error.
Old Oct 19, 2010, 11:34 AM
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^ That's what I usually say too.

But the main seal leaking has happened before so that is a possibility. I guess you don't have a warranty of any kind because you are in Italy with a USDM (I don't think the warranty applies there, might be wrong tho). I would swap the map back to stock. I'm sure the slippage will still be there and then check to see if you see any leaks. And +1 on the upgraded clutch and CMC. I would definitely go with aftermarket.
Old Oct 19, 2010, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Robevo RS
stock car - stock clutch - no mechanical issues - 6000 mile clutch gone = driver error.
Rob, maybe I'd think the same thing reading a similar story; but I assure you that I know how to drive a M/T AWD car: never had A/T cars (like 90% of people here in Italy), often driven race cars too, and this is the 3rd AWD car: I've never had a problem with a clutch (some problems with a ditch, but that's another story ).


Originally Posted by TK-EvoX
^^ happened to me when I bought mine a couple years back. I was slipping at 2k miles. I never really revved it high enough until then. I smelt burnt clutch and came out every morning to an oily drip underneath the car. Dealer warrantied it and blamed it on the 'robot from the factory'. They overnight a new clutch and I got my car back the next day. So far so good (knocks on wood). I'm at 15k miles now.
Do you remember if it lasted much time between the first slippage and the visible oil drips?

Originally Posted by ugakirk
^ That's what I usually say too.

But the main seal leaking has happened before so that is a possibility. I guess you don't have a warranty of any kind because you are in Italy with a USDM (I don't think the warranty applies there, might be wrong tho). I would swap the map back to stock. I'm sure the slippage will still be there and then check to see if you see any leaks. And +1 on the upgraded clutch and CMC. I would definitely go with aftermarket.
You are right, no warranty here (but this was clear to me since the beginning, and even if now I have to pay the clutch I still save much money in comparison to purchase EDM).
Yes, I will flash the stock ROM and, at this point, I expect that the slippage is still there, since I don't think the problem is the slightly higher torque I can get with my tuned map.

Last edited by therocket; Oct 19, 2010 at 11:59 AM.
Old Oct 19, 2010, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by therocket
Do you remember if it lasted much time between the first slippage and the visible oil drips?
Mine dripped for about a week and a half before I got an appointment to take it in due to getting the time off work and stuff. It could have dripped longer but that was about the time when i first noticed it. The service manager contacted Mitsu and from the way he was explaining it to me, it's an issue Mitsu knows about and yea it was the robot's fault.
Old Oct 19, 2010, 09:52 PM
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We had a X in our shop with 2k on it that we were doing boltons and tune. It started slipping the clutch on the Dyno. When we went to do the clutch the input shaft seal on the trans was installed wrong and leaking on the clutch. So its not always driver 99% of the time its is but not always.
Old Oct 19, 2010, 11:17 PM
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Ok, so about a possible leakage 2 different problems are known:
- engine rear main seal leaking
- tranny input shaft seal leaking

Unfortunately I think it's impossibile to know from the outside what happens exactly, right?

Last edited by therocket; Oct 19, 2010 at 11:37 PM.
Old Oct 20, 2010, 06:03 AM
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i have only heard of one guy to ever get mitsu to cover his clutch and that was because the car was 3 days old and it started to slip the evo x is a great car but mitsu failed in their clutch design honestly...i would never even look at putting another stock one in waste of time and money pm if you need one for a good price
Old Oct 20, 2010, 07:41 AM
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Yes there could be some oil drips or atlest a film around of oil at the bottom of the trans or motor ware they bolt together.
Old Oct 20, 2010, 02:04 PM
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Just flashed the stock rom and with this the clutch SEEMS not to slip; it's strange since there's not so much difference in torque between my custom map and the stock one, but maybe the clutch is border line so it is enough a small increase in torque to make it slip. Normally, the stock clutch can easily hold a simple custom tune without any major bolton, do you agree?

On Saturday I will lift the car to check if I see some oil leakage, I will update you.

About the very high engagement point, it seems that my pedal has not a real free play: ok, the first 10 mm of the stroke is softer but it's not a real free play, you can already feel resistance; but maybe it can be considered normal for a hydraulic clutch.

Last edited by therocket; Oct 20, 2010 at 02:20 PM.
Old Oct 20, 2010, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Lucas English
We had a X in our shop with 2k on it that we were doing boltons and tune. It started slipping the clutch on the Dyno. When we went to do the clutch the input shaft seal on the trans was installed wrong and leaking on the clutch. So its not always driver 99% of the time its is but not always.
well, that is mechanical issue. Too bad they let cars out like that.
Old Oct 23, 2010, 04:31 AM
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Hi guys, problem found: the gearbox input shaft seal is leaking, so the gearbox oil goes on the clutch...

Already from the outside, all the marked area was dirty of oil (sorry I forgot to take a pic before cleaning, since I was swearing hard ; pics quality is low, I had only my mobile with me)



It was not dripping yet, but it was dirty all around the small hole.
Then, from the bigger inspection hole I can clearly see that the oil is coming from the gearbox shaft and goes on the clutch bearing. Obviosuly, the inside of the bell is dirty of oil.





The leakage is small (the gearbox oil level is ok), but it's enough to make the clutch slip.

Now I've also read, maybe from Western_man, that in his case the problem was not the seal only, but the shaft itself that was not correctly machined where the seal goes: do you have any info on this?
If I make the job, I want to be 100% sure to properly solve the problem the first time, the last thing I want is to start pulling apart the gearbox every 6 months...


(guys is there a way to edit the title of the thread?)

Last edited by therocket; Oct 25, 2010 at 01:40 AM.
Old Oct 25, 2010, 07:58 AM
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Oh wow that sucks.
Old Oct 25, 2010, 11:13 AM
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I had this happen at 2k. They replaced clutch and seal at Mitsu. This was 2 years ago.
Now 17k and never had the problem again. My clutch went from great to slipping without warning. If you have Mitsu warranty it, you can upgrade the clutch and use their labor time.
Old Oct 25, 2010, 11:57 AM
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Did you have this same seal leaking (gearbox input shaft) or the other one (engine rear main seal)?
And, did you put again the stock clutch?

Thanks for your help guys.
Old Oct 25, 2010, 03:26 PM
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I'm embarrassed. You are correct sir. It was the rear main seal leaking.

Did not even think about it before posting.


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