I have done plenty of research on the to properly set up my catch can w/ check valves but have gotten kind of confused on exactly where the check valves need to be placed and weather or not the PCV valve needs to be taken out and ran a different route. I read it should be put directly after the outlet from the catch can so it doesn't pressurize the can.

I have the split DC3 catch can set up from Saikou Michi Company (http://www.saikoumichi.com/SPLIT_DC3_page.htm)

The Boomba Racing Check valves 3/8. http://www.boombaracing.com/images/cv38b.jpg

and i plan on getting some braided hose from jegs.

Any help would be appreciated. I may just be looking into this to much cause im pretty sure I know what needs to be done, but I just wanna make sure I am doing it right the first time.

 

This is an diagram of how they move the pcv to the catch can. I really dont want to have to do this. I dont think i need to either considering that I have check valves.



And this is the site to how the guy explains why this is done.
http://highboostforum.com/forum/show...ERLY-configure.

 

Aren't the PCV's built into the head? That little plastic tube between the head and inlet tube/intake manifold is hollow plastic, no check valve inside of them (I have a dual catch can set-up).

 

Yes ur right about the PCV valve thats why I was unsure about that part of the set-up. Im assuming the guy who wrote this didnt have a X. Can you describe more about how you have cans set up and should i put the check valves on the hose that feeds or returns air?

 

Here is my setup with dual boomba catchcans. Didn't use any check valves.















The front one has about 1/2" of oil in it from about 4K miles, while the back one barely has any. This setup seems to be the best in my opinion.

 

Awesome!!! Thanks for the pictures exaclty what I was looking for. Just need to no now which hose the check valves would splice into. The one going back to the crank case or the one going the intake manifold/intake.

 

Thanks for the pics makes all the difference.

 

Zip tie your fuel pressure regulator vacuum line OZ!

 

There are so many ways to setup a OCC. Not all of which are wrong or bad, but different setups result in different amounts of crankcase pressure and/or blowby in your AFR mixture.

If you are trying to avoid boosting the OCC - Put the CkV between the passenger side OCC and the intake manifold so pressure from boost cannot go into the OCC causing premature PCV failure. This also keeps the majority of the blowby crap out of your PCV valve possibly extending operation of the valve spring/ball setup.

The "Best" option from what I've researched on the EvoX is to just vent both sides, PCV and Fresh Air or Breather inlet, straight to atmosphere while deleting the PCV valve all together. The PCV is restrictive by design. It's flowpath is minimal. A fitting like Kosmic's PCV delete provides a FULL 5/8" flowpath with -10an male fitting on the end. Doing this also allows the crankcase to VENT pressure while in boost. Where keeping it only vents cc pressure during low load/idle while the manifold is in vacuum or small amounts of pressure. So with the PCV delete from Kosmic, you get two sides of pressure relief and NO blowby in the AFR mixture or engine. The only down side to this is at vacuum in the manifold, you lose the suction of the vacuum pressure pulling the air out of the cc. But this is when you least need it IMO. I'd rather have better pressure relief during high boost pressure when blowby is at its greatest and airflow through the system is also many multiples what it is during vacuum.



Here is the OCC that I think is good for a recirculation setup.

 

The venting both sides seem to be the best option. It fixes quite a few issues and doesn't seem to have much downside.