this is why i always use regular conventional oil 10w30 in all my cars, change it regularly and never had any problems. synthetic and all this fancy oil is for suckers who like throwing money away.

 

In the rear diffs of all your cars...?

 

Hahah, good luck with that man. Buy an evo and run conventional oil and let me know when your motor goes

 

Using a quality conventional with proper change intervals will do no harm to the engine. Synthetic oil isn't magical; it does the exact same job with the benefit of handling extreme temps a bit better with longer change intervals.

 

This has been discussed on various posts and forums. The '09-present Ralliart and '12 Evolution only require conventional 5w30 (this comes directly from Mitsubishi JDM/USA, not the dealerships). They do recommend synthetic for extra protection but it is not required.

I agree that with normal driving (mixed with the occasional spirited jaunt) on a stock car with 3k-4k mile OCI, an API SN rated quality conventional oil will work just fine.

 

Can you support that opinion with anything close to legitimate information as opposed to pure emotion?...For the record?

Having said that, most so called "synthetics" are blends these days because the government allows manufacturers to call blends "synthetic."

As well, most motor oils these days, including organic oils, are so well refined they perform very well in most applications.

But for my money, especially wanting to keep that turbo journal bearing well lubed, I prefer a true synthetic motor oil.

There are only two true synthetics that I am aware of: Amsoil which is an olafin based oil, and Redline which is an ester based oil.

True synthetics are man-made, uniform at the molecular level, and smaller than organic molecules which is why they can go where organic molecules cant, or have difficulty flowing to (like your turbo bearing).

Redline recommends the following for transfer cases and LSDs:
75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil Most popular Red Line gear oil, with thousands of applications for passenger cars, light trucks, and racing vehicles Contains additional friction modifiers for suitability with clutch-type limited slip differentials - for most LSDs, no additional friction modifiers are required
This product is not designed for use in most manual transmissions or transaxles in passenger vehicles, since the extreme slipperiness may cause synchronizer mesh issues that lead to shifting problems
Recommended for API GL-5, GL-6, MT-1, MIL-L-2105E, SAE J2360, and Chrysler spec MS-9763


Amsoil, for the record, has no recommendations for the Evo X Transfer case or LSD:

Engine Oil Grade 1......SM[1]

 

Sounds more like a mechanical issue with your 8 burning oil. My 8 does not have this issue at all, Ive been using RP for 7 years and no problems.

 

+1 this

 

People aren't using Diaqueen ATF in the Torque Transfer mechanism as specified in the manual? The stuff is $8/qt......

 

There are more than just two Group IV, V oils out there ('Full Synthetic'). Motul makes some, Royal Purple has a line and so on. Amsoil is absolutely a top shelf product but for the money, Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra (Group III) protects just as well (UOA on BITOG) and is locally sourced. Regardless, we are now in the relm of splitting hairs. Group III synthetics, or 'blends' if you will, are highly refined base stocks that in no way resemble their crude origins.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2639886

 

Ive been reading that forum for years.

Its where I found out about "synthetic" blends to begin with.

That is where I found out Mobile1 switched from being a true synth to a blend, and why Mobile1 began to disappear from my WRX. I switched to Amsoil and that problem went away.

You can run grp III if you want. Ill stick with true "full synth" oil for my car.

 

x2

 

X10

If you guys are using royal purple, look up the specs and wear characteristics of this oil. Ran it in my car for 2k miles and it came out thinner than water. Would never recommend it to anyone.

 

To each their own. No one is wrong in the discussion of which synthetic works, PP, PU, Amsoil or M1, etc., They all do. Its a question of how much money you want to spend.


(Back to Gear Oil)
As for wear characteristics of RP? Yup, I checked. Has been in my diffs on and off for over 10 years with 0 issue. But again, to each their own. I have also used Valvoline High Performance, Pennzoil GearPlus (conventionals), Synpower, and Mobil1. All 75/90 or 80w90 gear oils and they all worked fine.
Unless you are towing/racing/attempting burnouts/launching, they all work for 15-30k miles.

Right now, using Pennzoil Gear Plus 80w90. If there is such a thing as 'favorite' gear oil, this is probably mine.

Also have used :
Valvoline 75w90 High Performance
Mobil1 75w90

 

...Also where I realized that uoa could be done and as such, that a great grp lll base stock synthetic like PP or Castrol Edge are fantastic oils. One step further being Valvoline Synpower which mixes grp lll with full synthetic grp lV base stocks.