I just recently got my car tuned and I am getting a surging noise from the turbo. its a 2012 gsr with only 5k miles. mods are ets single cbe, ets intake, ets ic piping, stock cat, grimmspeed ebcs, turbosmart bov. Car made 330whp 365wtq at 28lbs. Normal driving no issue, WOT no issue spools fine and strong. now lets say I am on the highway in fourth or fifth gear and I try to pass someone at part throttle I get a ch, ch, ch sound like if there was a leak. If I continue to accelerate and pick up speed the sound goes away and starts to spool like normal. I already verified there are no leaks. I was told this was normal at higher boost levels. I took a friend for a ride and he said it seems as if the turbo is spooling too fast and I am putting too much load on the car. I want to get this issued resolved and would like to see if anybody knows what this issue can be?

 

Sounds like recirculation valve or maybe compressor surge.

 

Where is the recirc valve? If its compressor surge why and how can I fix it?

 

Your turbosmart blow off valve isnt tight enough.

does it have an adjustment on the top of it?

 

I've had the same problem right after a tune . Partial thrrottle or wot on 4&5 gear when @5-10 psi. I was serging. Them I fouled a plug. And another one and now my piston rings are shot on cylinder #1. Tuner blamed it on bad spark pugs and fuel.... get it checked out b4 it causes more problems.

 

Do research on "crushing" bypass valve. Bypass valve is same thing as a recirculation valve. Your recirculation valve has been replaced with a turbo smart blow off valve according to your original post. If your bov is truly a blow off valve and venting air to the outside instead of recirculating it can cause compression surge. I am not that knowledgeable about bov on an evo so you'll have to look up the side effects. Also if your bov is not set correctly it will vent before it should and release air hence the ch,ch,ch.

 

I have the bov full recirc. I tightened it some and it kinda helped but the surging is still there. It happens at let's say 50% throttle at low rpm. So let's say I shift first and second at 3k and then in third I try to get on it the turbo spools fine then at 3-4k rpm it surges andthen it spools fine again. At wot it doesn't surge at all. Someone was telling me it might be the mivec settings too aggressive at low rpm.

 

You need to get the red spring for the Turbosmart BOV, since you moved the location of the BOV with the ets intake. The spring that came with Turbosmart BOV was intended for the stock intake and can't handle the increased flow. I have a Turbosmart BOV with an AMS intake and was also getting compressor surge but the red spring solved my issue.

 

I already have the red spring. None of the parts are bad they are all new with less than 1k miles. Like I said early I did tighten the bov with the red spring and now I am also getting compressor surge but when I let off the accelerator. So I loostened it a bit the surge from the bov went away,

There are different types of compressor surge. The compressor surge I am getting is while I am on the accelerator. While the turbo is spooling from about 3-4k rpm its a constant surge till the rpms get high enough and then the turbo makes the normal turbo spool sound.

 

You already purchased the red spring separately? It does not come with Turbosmart BOV. Put the stock DV back on to see if you still get compressor surge.

 

Can you take a In car video of this happening?
maybe with a shot of your boost gauge at the same time if you have one?

I have the Turbosmart, and A ETS intake. Running 28 pounds and I dont have a problem with the spring that came in the BOV. You shoudn't need a new spring.

The Mivec may also be a little aggressive for part throttle lower rpm situations. It is usually tuned to build boost as fast as possible at WOT. Your tuner should easily be able to fix this if it is not simply your BOV not at a correct spring pressure.

 

Hi

It's because the BOV is set too tight you need to lossen it all the way then with the car on only tighten it till the BOV does not open while in idel.
Your getting that sound at light throt because it's set to tight to open when in light boost with it lossened it should open under light boost that should stop the sound and the bucking that most aftermarket BOV cause.

 

The Bov that we have stays closed during idle even set very very loose.
and if he loosens it more it will Flutter at a lower boost, causing more bucking...
If I am incorrect in thinking this explain why with lots of detail please.

 

Yes I purchased the red spring seperatly. I have set the bov full tight and full soft and everything inbetween and I still get srge while on the throttle from 3-4k.

Is there a thread on how to properly set the bov for rfernce though? I am going to try and take video.

 

any ideas?