This is my first post here, I live in the Philippines and I love this forum. I own a 2008 Evo X GSR which I have recently replaced the clutch with a twin plate exedy racing clutch. The guys who worked on it finished earlier today. After just a few hundred meters of driving, the Service AWC warning came up on the dash. Then just a few minutes ago, after searching on the forum, I found the answer to my problem. My AWC reservoir at the trunk is empty. Good thing my house is like just 15 kms away from the shop but its currently midnight here and I just noticed the empty or very low level of oil there.

Being a newbie with modifying cars, May I ask the experts here please, if I could use Redline D6 ATF for the AWC tank?

Please I cannot sleep and I want to fill that tank up asap.

 

If you choose to run the REDline ATF you would need to use D4 ATF

 

It's not a proper DEX VI if that's the reason you are choosing it over other fluids.

Regardless, you might want to have get your mechanic (if he/she can) to do some air bleeding of the ACD, if the level is low and I mean below the low line when the motor is running, then I'd be curious as to why the ACD wasn't bled and had the fluid set to the correct levels. Assuming the transfer came out like they normally do of course, unless your mechanic is magical. This makes sense as to why your level is lower than it should be.

My advice, get it checked ASAP.

 

Unfortunately, gravity-bleeding the ACD does not work. Only the AYC circuits can be done this way. If you don't have a MUT, then you need to use the throttle-pump trick (with the car set to ON, but not running) to get the pump running and the ACD solenoid to open. The process is described many places on the web.

But, first, get some ATF in the reservoir now. Then refill it a few times over several hours. The built-in filter slows the movement of new fluid (a lot) and it takes a while for the reservoir to actually fill. Even worse, some people have had problems priming a totally-dry pump. You may have to force some fluid down the inlet and/or pull the hoses off the pump and put some fluid directly into the pump-body. But let's not worry about this yet.

If you aren't going to take care of this soon, pull the fuse that powers the pump. A pump-motor that is spinning wide open, with nothing to pump, is a pump-motor that will soon need replacing.

edit: in this post, I originally wrote "air-bleeding" when I really meant "gravity-bleeding" (which has now been fixed); I am indebted to Kijma for gently pointing this out; after that, things went a tad down-hill, so I deleted what ensued; here's hoping those with a sense of humor saw it before it went bye-byes