IRISHEVOX

I would do E85 if there are a lot of pumps in ur area

lithe

iTrader: (3)

I'm considering a map for that fuel, but I've heard mixed results.

There's no question it makes great power, but I've heard in the GT-R forums (not sure if it translates to our motors, etc.) about issues with running E85 long-term.

Can you aware me on the above? I'm clueless on the differences between injector and fuel pump manufacturers. I was of the assumption that the flow rate/size was all that mattered aside from perhaps some personal bias towards one company or another?

chriswolf81

iTrader: (3)

Well walbro 255 lph have been around for a while and are proven, but tend to be noisy (whinebro).

Deatschwerks makes the DW300 series pumps, they use some turbine design which makes less noise and flows a bit more.

They are both identical in size and use the same install kits. They walbro matches well for 1000cc injectors, I picked the DW for my 1100cc injectors. Either pump can/should be hard wired for best results and the fuel return drilled out and inline filter removed. All can be found on this forum. I still have to do this, but have the hard wire kit here.

There is also the DW65 that fits in the stock fuel pump location and requires no install kit I believe. You won't be fully e-85 compatible though and I don't know it's flow rate, but thought it was larger. Either way no need to go bigger than what your injectors can flow.

Make no mistake about it E-85, if consistently of high quality, is the s**t. But I'm not sure on long term effects either. I'm currently installing aquamist hfs-3.

chriswolf81

iTrader: (3)

Oh and on the injectors. I always read that tuners like the scaling of the ID1000 and good reviews on the FIC1100. I went with 1100 for a little extra headroom. Some people like the DW line of injectors too.

lithe

iTrader: (3)

A wealth of info, thanks for your help Chris!

chriswolf81

iTrader: (3)

No problem man.

Just remember this is based 95% on forum reading, so grain of salt time.

Always best to ask your tuner what he likes ...

lithe

iTrader: (3)

Also good advice. I've yet to decide where I want to go. I might have them do some of my installation (turbo, exhaust manifold porting, cams) if I decide it's worth it. I know some friends who have some experience, but a.) I might not want to ask them to do such a big job, and b.) it might be better to have professionals working on such important items.

Deciding among AMS, Boostin', and MAP...all relatively close.

Also, are you happy with the MAP mainfold? I'm just thinking of porting/coating the OEM as I don't want to loose torque. The manifolds look good though-MAP, Toxicfab, and isn't there a Race manifold as well?

I think I've decided to do Cosworth MX-1 cams. They seem to actually boost low-mid-range torque with stock-frame turbos, which is something I'd want. Also, I won't be changing the stock rev limiter, so no springs/retainers needed. They're not as aggressive as GSC or Kelford, so more peace-of-mind for me. I'm hoping to find a place that can do the install without removing the head, as you suggested.

chriswolf81

iTrader: (3)

I think you are talking about the full-race manifold. Cbrd and ets are another 2 options.

I was going to port my stocker, but MAP suggested the short runner manifold instead and they gave me credit for sending in my stocker. Short runner manifold cracked within a year. Chris Carey from MAP said it may have happened from it being coated. He was awesome and replaced it with their in house long runner manifold with me paying the difference. The MAP guys are awesome and have fair prices. AMS is the s**t, but they are more expensive.

In the end you are just doing a basic turbo swap so not a complicated install. If you go the MAP route they can port the manifold in house and save you some time.

In the end the tune is the most important and I think MAP does that in house also. One stop shop for the win.

I think turbo swap with manifold swap should be around $500, that is what I paid at RRE if I remember correctly. They offered cams with install for $1000. They used mx-1 non-head removal for this offer.

lithe

iTrader: (3)

I would think coating a manifold would help prevent cracks, not contribute to them...hmmmm. Interesting to know though. I suppose porting the OEM itself increases the risk of cracking somewhat as well. I have heard that only the full-race manifold is somewhat immune from cracking (as all tubular manifolds are known to do I've heard?). We'll see...hopefully my OEM holds up and I never have to worry about it.

Sounds like MAP has treated you right. It's good to hear, I was sold on one of their turbos until the MHI came along. You're right about shop prices. I might end up going with MAP or Boostin' just since they're more reasonable than AMS. Good to know about the 1K MX-1 cams w/install price. Very reasonable since they're hard to find for <$700. Hopefully places other than RRE will honor that deal. Driving to SoCal isn't an option!

What's the timeline for your engine build?

chriswolf81

iTrader: (3)

Keep in mind that the short runner manifold was not a MAP in house product, but imported. He just said they had only encountered this issue on the coated ones and stopped offering it on those manifolds. Well the coating keeps the heat inside the pipe, therefore making the inside hotter by allowing less heat dissipation. I assume that may result in more stress. my guess. But it is what yo want to do for better performance, def worth it. The stocker is a cast piece, which is less prone to cracking, but porting it may make it a bit riskier, not sure.

Also I just checked the MAP website and realized that the DW65 pump actually flows 265 lph, which puts it just ahead of the Walbro 255 lph and below the DW300 320 lph.

I would love to get my build done for summer, but I am trying to justify it daily. I am thinking to go with Jacks up in Colorado springs, since they can do my tranny and diff pins at the same time and are very reputable. They change to the new timing chain and I trust them to make my car run right. Unfortunately they only build their own motors and will not install an ERL block into my car. Bad experience with 3rd party motors they say. They use Darton sleeves and all the right components, but their 2.2l sleeved short block installed is $6.5K. Plus cams, spring, retainers and valves $1.5K, tranny $1.2K, clutch $900-2K (They tell me if you want to shift past 7.5K you will need to buy a twin). so you really quick get to 10-12K with no tune and other stuff that always adds to the bill. I can go unsleeved, but why pay 5K for something I had to settle for. I now have an EF-4 ported and coated on the way and Aquamist HFS-3 mostly installed, but cant really utilize either until I build everything.
Sorry for venting, but I fight this battle every day. I have 10K sitting in my closet, but that's a down payment on a small house, yikes.

chriswolf81

iTrader: (3)

Just checked and MAP no longer sells the short runner manifold.

IRISHEVOX

I have no problems with my E85 set up except when cold outside May take a min to start. But E 85 is good I run 92 octane mostly bc it burns slower but nothing but E 85 for track days. Gas mileage sucks on E85 ...but I make way more power on it it's like night and day

lithe

iTrader: (3)

I will look into an E85 map from whatever tuner I go with. I'd probably be safe from any long-term damage running 93 the other 6 months of the year-winters are too ferocious to risk it around here.

I guess I'm just telling myself that if my OEM manifold fails I can get a full-race and give tubular-style a shot. Your logic makes sense regarding the ceramic coating...

On your recommendation I've switched my thinking to a DW300 pump and FIC1100 injectors.

Your build plan is ambitious! And I thought I was looking to spend a lot on mods. Now I don't feel so bad. You certainly sound like you've done your homework. Jacks sounds like a quality place-which I think is what most people are looking for, someone that would treat your car like it was their own. I think you're correct in going all the way (sleeved) if you go through with everything. You'd only regret doing it half-assed like you said.

Hey man, vent! That is what these forums/communities are for. Who else could possible understand what you're going through/talking about anyway?!

And I go back and forth a lot (if you couldn't already tell), but as expensive as your build is, it makes sense to me. IMO, no other car beats an Evo until you get into GT-R or maybe forthcoming NSX territory (my 2 dream cars of the future). I tried RWD (2012 Mustang GT) and for me it's just not the same (especially coming from my climate). Even in the M3/S4/C63 segment (heck, even a C6Z-yes the new Z06 is insane!), I'd rather have an Evo since I can access more of it's performance all the time, in any situation. My point is, there aren't many AWD performance platforms out there, the Evo is worth it. Anyway...my little vent/rant.

chriswolf81

iTrader: (3)

I agree with the AWD that's why I got it. I want to drive it all year around and there are not many 400-500whp cars that work well in the snow. Evo just needs snow shoes.

I love the evo, but lots of turboed rwd domestics around here that blow my doors off. Supercharged 700whp c63. My buddy is just finishing his build this week, it's a civic hatch with a PT 5858 that will make 500whp. I have stopped trying to be the fastest, just want to be happy with it.

My dream car is the GTR too, but then you watch street outlaws and the 1500whp GTR can't even beat cars that can't beat farm truck. Puts **** in perspective lol

lithe

iTrader: (3)

I think you've arrived at the same conclusion. It's not all about dragstrip/straight-line speed. I loved the 5.0L from the Mustang, it would've been relatively easy/inexpensive to make big power, but for me & my climate, it's not nearly as fun as an Evo. The cars you mentioned, while no doubt impressive, would be next to useless in WI for almost half the year. That's why a pre-owned GT-R is really the only next step for me.

I do have my eye on the Infiniti Eau Rouge Q50 concept. It's rumored that it'll have a twin-turbo V6 of some kind & AWD (de-tuned GT-R VR38DETT/ATTESA E-TS AWD?) to truly enter the conversation with the C63, M3/4, RS4, IS-F segment. Since I always spend too much on my car, my "fun" car must also be my DD, keeping 4 doors and a more useable back seat would be nice.

Even 700-800 hp out of a GT-R would be my max goal. But you're right, it's crazy how 4 figure hp cars can still be considered "slow" in certain company.