As the title says can it be done and what would need to be completed in order to achieve this setup?

Not sure if i'd have to modify abs/ayc systems? From what i've read i think i have to do an AYC delete correct but can i keep the abs?

I've been researching for a few days and have not come across any MR's with the RS diff swap i've only seen GSR's do it with some minor modifications.

On RalliSpec i saw they do have the SST Models of the RS Evo X diff's which made me interested.

Would it be worth the bang for the buck since they don't sell the RS model here?



Any help/tips is much appreciated!!

 

I know of no differences in the rear diff or AYC between a USDM MR and GSR, so I'll assume that you're talking about the front diff. I don't see any issue here, other than ordering the right part, but have to wonder why you're doing this. If you're setting up for rally, then getting rid of the AYC entirely is the first step. If you're setting up for pavement, then most seem to stay with the helical. So why do you want a 1- or 1.5-way front?

 

I'm setting up for an auto-x/track car I don't plan on taking it off road. Figured it would strip a lot of weight out, handle better, and be more durable compared to the stock electronic difs. I see time attack evo x's with no ayc and 8/9 diffs swtapped out. Haven't seen any MRS which peaked my interest, I wonder how it would feel. But the cost to outcome is what has me wondering if it's worth it.

 

My suggestion, then, is to leave the front diff alone (because a helical is usually better than a 1-way on pavement; just learn to left-foot brake, if you aren't doing this already) and maybe put an RS in the rear. The AYC is really something to keep for road racing. It's why we turn better than many other cars, especially Scoobies. What you really want, IMO, is a good ACD/AYC tuner. The OE programs stink. I especially hate the inverted AYC when you launch into a 90* turn when autocrossing. That must be tuned out. If after a good reflash of the ACD/AYC you still don't like it, then start swapping hard parts.

 

Who is doing AYC/ACD flashing for the 10's?

 

Ah, see, there you got me. No-one that I know of any more (or, at least, no-one that I trust) can reflash the OE ACD/AYC controller. My hope was that, by getting someone else into the same boat as myself, we could row a bit more effectively, maybe even locating such a person.

 

Good advice! i have not tried to left foot brake yet havent really had the chance to open her up in a closed course and get the feel of the cars limits.....i'm coming from a 1997 mustang gt and a 2012 Lancer GTS haha.

Bought the car on September 16th right before winter hit up here so shes only been driving on snow covered highways and drifting in empty parking lots.


So the front hellical dif is better than a 1 way RS or 1.5? cool saves me 1.5k

I see that MoTec has an ACD Controller on there website could this help difficulty with finding a tuner to successfully tune it with no issues?

http://www.motec.com/mdc/mdcoverview/


Don't plan on swapping it unless it's somewhat achievable.
Definitely don't want to buy the dif etc. and not have a way to swap it successfully.

 

ahh just read more about the uses of the controller....unfortunately it will disable AYC.

 

Yep. Most of the good controllers out there meet FIA specs, so they don't include AYC. From what I have learned via surfing and asking, our only serious option is someone who can get inside the OE controller. Then find an expert to do the tuning. Plus, reprogramming the OE controller is less likely to bump you up a class in racing.

As to the front diff, the reason that most folks like helicals on pavement is that they don't lock until some slip occurs, rather than being locked based on total transmitted torque (like a mechanical). The reason that I mentioned left-foot braking is that, if and when you get slip of the inside front at exit, you can apply some braking to get this to stop, all without lifting your right foot from the throttle. Keep in mind that helicals lock to produce a maximum ratio of output torques, which is about 4:1 on the one that we have. So, if the inside front doesn't have enough grip to put down one fifth of the total torque going to the front, a little left-foot braking raises the baseline of the inside front and gets it to re-lock (enough). Of course, you need to have reprogrammed your ACD/AYC controller to not open the center when you lightly left-foot brake (or be in something like Snow mode); if not, then the center snaps open and all gains are lost.

 

Here's another piece of advice that you can take or leave:

When surfing around, look first for a description of how the three modes differ on the OE controller. If it says anything about torque split, leave immediately. If it vaguely mentions locking and unlocking of the center, continue to read, but cautiously. If it says that Tarmac locks the hardest but also opens the fastest and in response to the smallest of inputs, then stay and read carefully, as you've found one of the few sources that knows what it's talking about.

 

Do you happen to have a link to a thread that would have the correct info because i would also be interested in learning a little bit more as well and dont want to learn the wrong stuff!

 

Here's a good one: http://www.full-race.com/store/r14-a...troller-1.html

 

Keep in mind 2012 (?) plus models have throttle closure if you LFB and throttle at same time. You can get it tuned out though. It's one change to one ECU value.

 

Makes sense now .

With the Full Race ACD-Pro it would allow for the AYC pump to work with the system how exactly could i find someone to tune it?

Do you think it would be something STM could do?

What do you think would perform better with the ACD-Pro unit installed a RS 1.5 way or 2 way? only AYC models diffs offered by Cusco
The Transmission is stock right now.

Also will be taking it to the strip besides auto-x/road racing events.

Thanks for all the info!

 

Looks promising