Hey,

Last week I had a Mitsubishi dealer replace my oem clutch with a Clutch Masters FX400 6 puck sprung clutch and I had the stock flywheel resurfaced.

Since then, the tarmac light occasionally flashes while I am driving and the ACD/AYC screen blanks out indicating that the pump is no longer functioning. Whenever this occurs, the screen will usually reset itself and the pump will begin working again in about 30 seconds. It also resets if I turn the car off and then on again. Note: the car is only 1.5 years old so I doubt the pump is already corroded.

I was wondering if this can be correlated to shifting as it usually happens whenever there is some drivetrain shock (not always though). I'm still getting used to the six puck so occasionally the engagement can be harsh (rear diff makes a thud noise and/or car bucks - especially when starting from a stop). Is this possible, or is more likely that the dealer didn't bleed the acd pump lines correctly and there are air bubbles in the lines as a result of the clutch repair?

Note: Nothing I have read indicates that the acd pump failure can be caused by the clutch/shifting, but I want to make sure that's the case.

Thanks!


Note: UPDATE POSTED BELOW.

 

Sounds to me like the did a bad job bleeding the lines or maybe they didnt connect something correctly! Time to go back to the dealer..

 

Thanks - sounds like that's the issue.

I spoke to the dealer and they said that it wasn't normal practice to bleed the acd lines after disconnecting them from the t case. Furthermore, the fluid is below the minimum line in the reservoir. Anyone know if this is hard on the pump (i.e. air bubbles causing the pump to burnout before it shuts off) - and if I should not be driving my car? No warranty since I imported from the USA, so i'd like to be on the safe side....

 

Try bleeding the lines yourself. There is a bleeder screw on the center diff. Lift car up while running in neutral, open bleeder screw, and spin wheels by hand. Close screw when all air is out.

 

top the fluid off to see if that fixes it. if not, have them bleed the lines or do it yourself.
you should be back on the road in no time.

 

The above makes me want to ask: When you were in the lobby of said dealership, did you happen to see all of the awards that their techs have won at Special Olympics?

Yes, yes, I know. Inappropriate. By still apt.

ps. yes, if one or more of the lines have air in them, the reservoir will move to low, as the air is compressed

 

LOL

Thanks for the help everyone - they're going to bleed the lines for me in 2 weeks, and hopefully that will solve the problems I'm having. Unfortunately, I don't have a lift to do it myself.

 

bs. dealership probably isnt experienced with evos. I had the same problem. Theres two methods which they could have done. Either way the t case has to come off, either fully disconnected or unbolted and have it sit aside with all ayc acd lines connected. By disconnecting the transfer case, there will be fluid loss and air will be introduced. Have them bleed it, check the reservior yourself in the trunk (right side there is a panel). after driving the line should be around min, let it sit for an hour or 2 and the fluid level will rise up to max. If this isnt maxed, fill up sp3 fluid yourself. If air is introduced, it'll try to bleed itself while driving but at the same time it might shoot out some fluid as well if theres alot of air so keep an eye on it.

First hand expierence except ive had it much worse. guy who did my clutch forgot to top off tcase oil and didnt bleed. -.-

And if your awc light is always flashing, dont worry bout it, pump isnt activated cause computer knows something is wrong therefore shutting down the pump completely thus you have the flashing light. sorry for grammar quite drunk

 

UPDATE

Thanks for responses.

I just went to the dealer today and they pulled the codes (161E and 161F). They said that this indicates that the pump has failed due to corrosion therefore they would not bleed the lines for me since there was no 161C code (low pressure). My pump is only 1.5 years old with around 5000 winter miles so it seems unlikely that it is already corroded to me.

I asked them to top of the fluid anyways, and I used the gas pedal self bleeding method myself (not as effective). Since then, the tarmac light only flashed once for 30 seconds after an hour long drive and 10 minutes of hard turns/donuts in a parking lot to engage the ACD pump. Went back to tell them but they attributed it to chance and said it's failing anyways...

Anyone ever resolve a similar experience to this? I'm wondering if I should just pay to get the lines bled or if the pump likely failed...

 

I bled my own and it worked fine.

I remember having to bleed it a certain way but I forget the details. I bled it and topped it off. But the fluid was still dropping down during use. I can't remember how I had to do it.

I think I bled it, closed the valve, then hit the gas pedal to fill the pump completely, then top it off one last time.
Without using the gas pedal AFTER closing the valve, the fluid level was dropping during use and setting off the ACD lights.

 

Was this the method you used? (I have also seen people saying you can do this without loosening the bleed bolt... seems wrong but not sure)

Originally Posted by n03lsevo
I know this has been talked about before, but if you can't find it here's the fast way of bleeding the ACD without going to the dealer:

Tools:
10mm wrench or socket
vacum hose
ACD fluid

how to:

this is a 2 man job, someone to turn the key to the on position and step on the gas pedal until the pump comes on and anther to loosen the 10mm bleed bolt on the TCase(bottom).

1. have a guy under the car ready on the bleed bolt with vacum hose on it diverting to a cup or bottle for excess acd fluid.
2. turn the key to on position, without starting, as soon as you turn the key, press on the gas peddle to the ground and notify your buddy under the car that its on.
3. the acd pump will come on and open the bleeder right away to let out air or fluid. Close bleeder when pump stops pumping usually after 3-5 seconds.
4. repeat 5-6 times.

 

yep. that's how i did it. didn't take very long.

like i said, i still got the lights all coming on until i realized i needed to hit the gas pedal one last time after closing the valve. after i did that, i noticed the fluid had dropped quite a bit. i filled it back up and never had an issue after.
this is why i prefer a mechanical diff LOL

 

You REALLY should consider going elsewhere.

The pressure-sensor codes are C1611 and C1612.

A C161C is a malfunction of the ACD prop valve.

These people that you are dealing with are clueless.