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Good morning EvoM!
I've been searching the far corners of the internet on forums for the answer to this question.. Now, I know it's been done before, but there's no write ups on HOW TO take out your diff, even though it's a fairly easy task for anyone new to working on their own car. I'm definitely writing up a good post after I've got this ix diff in my X. Now, I've figured out how to take out my rear diff, with the help of friends and one very old step by step here on EvoM. Now; What do I need to change my rear differential on my X to an ix?!
I'm asking if anyone has done it and can give me an idea of parts I need aside from axles, the diff itself, and a mythical mount made my Mitsu themselves for this swap..
Like I said, I know it's been done, I just need your help!
Vacancy.
The beast.
Crack #1 ft. Possible JB weld.
Crack #2
9.5" Konig Milligrams on 265-35/18 Michelin Pilot Super Sports semi stickies. Fantastic ride quality btw.
Last edited by Sinker3000; Jul 7, 2015 at 06:54 AM.
Reason: Pretty pictures
I've briefly looked into replacing my rear diff with a diff from an Evo ix that my buddy had a valuable. Only because of a recent issue where my pinion shattered, and finances have been crushing me. It seemed like a whole lot of unnecessary work for the swap. What are you looking to gain out of using a diff from an ix? And have you looked into a rebuild for the LSD on your current X?
the ralliart for the CZ4A works. that is what i have. SO as the ralliart rear diff plate to connect your rear sub-frame.
$150 at the dealer.
You dont need a new drive shaft .
Rob, have you ever used the 12 plate wier kit for the evo 8/9/x ralliart diff? I'm on the hunt for a ralliart diff/axles now and am unsure if the 12 plate weir upgrade would suit me better vs a ralliart supertraction or a cusco 1.5 way.
nope, i never used it. i am using the almost locked rear stock evo diffs. its a bit things changed around inside, but everything is oem inside and out.
there is some used car larts dealer on the internet where i got mines. They said it back then, they have tons of evo parts oem. I'll try to find them for you. but i am at a bachelor party this weekend, so has to wait until next monday.
Last edited by Robevo RS; Jul 31, 2015 at 07:10 PM.
shop secret. sorry, You need to contact with my mechanics to get they version of it. I dont actually recommend that for DD or street use. Just way to tight.
In this video you will see how hard to move the car and if you really watch it you will see how tight is when i am turning. Just watch it carefully.
It looks like the diff is "welded". The "almost locked" comment is what threw me off.
I like your exhuast routing, very clever. That bar that you added to the rear subframe... i assume you just welded it in above where the camber arms attatch?? Is this to protect the exhaust/diff? Or was it done to add rigidity to the subframe? There are also some other mods it seems to the subframe, can you speak to them?
It looks like the diff is "welded". The "almost locked" comment is what threw me off.
I like your exhuast routing, very clever. That bar that you added to the rear subframe... i assume you just welded it in above where the camber arms attatch?? Is this to protect the exhaust/diff? Or was it done to add rigidity to the subframe? There are also some other mods it seems to the subframe, can you speak to them?
i mean i would but i am not sure i would give you a 100% right answers. So i wont . Sorry
The add on bar is for rigidity and protection. Works perfect.
The diff is almost welded, and feels like those But its not welded , so this way it wont brake anything like the welded diff would. It has some play but very very tight.
Very tricky on tarmac , great on slippery surface.
It is a pain to drive that car slow and make no sense. But as faster you start going with it everything suddenly make sense and falls in place. Its a weird feeling actually.
When you drive it on street , I wonder like after a minute or two, why i do actually took it out there... lol
Last edited by Robevo RS; Aug 6, 2015 at 03:59 PM.
