Adding exhaust baffle
Oct 23, 2016, 01:33 PM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Adding exhaust baffle
Helpful comments welcomed. I'm looking for the best solution to quiet down my exhaust when I want to.
i just installed a full turbo back Topspeed Pro 1. Very happy with the fitting, quality and sound under WOT. Start up and Idling is brutal, and a definite cop magnet. ive researched electric exhaust valves and am not a fan of blocking the flow. I've decided to go for a vacuum or boost activated exhaust valve and adjust the arm so that it will never close more than 75%. I'll connect it to a switch in the cabin so that I can flick it to fully open when I want, otherwise it will only open automatically under heavy boosting.
Has anyone done this install before? It may sound like lots of people have tried a similar intake but I believe this one is slightly different from most.
- Valve/flap to be installed (slid in) just after testpipe
- Valve/flap to be normally open type (as a failsafe in case the solenoid fails)
- Solenoid connected so that when it receives power signal it closes flap to 75%. When power signal is cut off flap defaults to fully open
- Solenoid activated, valve closes to 75% but when boost is applied then valve also opens.
I dont want to have to 'flick the switch' every time I randomly plant my foot when driving around town thus the valve will need to open under boost as I said.
Thanks guys.
i just installed a full turbo back Topspeed Pro 1. Very happy with the fitting, quality and sound under WOT. Start up and Idling is brutal, and a definite cop magnet. ive researched electric exhaust valves and am not a fan of blocking the flow. I've decided to go for a vacuum or boost activated exhaust valve and adjust the arm so that it will never close more than 75%. I'll connect it to a switch in the cabin so that I can flick it to fully open when I want, otherwise it will only open automatically under heavy boosting.
Has anyone done this install before? It may sound like lots of people have tried a similar intake but I believe this one is slightly different from most.
- Valve/flap to be installed (slid in) just after testpipe
- Valve/flap to be normally open type (as a failsafe in case the solenoid fails)
- Solenoid connected so that when it receives power signal it closes flap to 75%. When power signal is cut off flap defaults to fully open
- Solenoid activated, valve closes to 75% but when boost is applied then valve also opens.
I dont want to have to 'flick the switch' every time I randomly plant my foot when driving around town thus the valve will need to open under boost as I said.
Thanks guys.
Oct 24, 2016, 04:30 PM
#2
everything your wanting points to varex mufflers.
what your idea is is kinda weird.
a boost activated cutout that is never closed is going to be LOUDER than what you have right now.
unless you are thinking in line of the apexi unit which many have disagreed upon. blocking the flow is just asking for trouble.
if u dont want the varex, change the exhaust. topspeed pro isnt remotely quiet.
all ur custom work and headache is going to cost more than a varex unit or a quieter exhaust.
what your idea is is kinda weird.
a boost activated cutout that is never closed is going to be LOUDER than what you have right now.
unless you are thinking in line of the apexi unit which many have disagreed upon. blocking the flow is just asking for trouble.
if u dont want the varex, change the exhaust. topspeed pro isnt remotely quiet.
all ur custom work and headache is going to cost more than a varex unit or a quieter exhaust.
Oct 25, 2016, 09:15 AM
#3
Evolved Member
A simple solution to tame it down is to add one or even two resonators (as long as you can fit) before the rear mufflers. Should take a lot of the noise out at idle and cruising, and still be loud and sound good at WOT, which to me sounds like exactly what you are trying to do. No need to screw around complicating everything for yourself. People often overlook a good resonator in the mid-section.
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