Krookedcanvas

I put a turbo on my 2015 lancer
Hey everybody, new to this forum. Been reading lots and need help. I have 2015 lancer that is boosted. Its been running great until we turned up the boost. He wanted to see me at 10psi... But this is a little alarming do to the fact I have a MBC set for 10psi. I also have a turbo smart wastegate set up for 10psi as well. So in theory I should be at 10psi right from the start. Since this I have ran into issue after issue. I believe I have a big boost leak. But cant find it. Ive checked everything twice. No luck. My car just as of a week ago started to bog down with no acceleration. Holding -19 psi of vacuum at idle. Then says 0 when driving around 3k rpm. When I try to go it sound okay till about 3500 rpm then my car makes a weird loud drone sound. Like not enough air going through a big pipe or something. Idels fine just no acceleration at all. Takes me 45 seconds to get to 20 mph.

I've replaced my maf two days ago no change.

I need to do a boost leak test but dont have access to a compressor.

Turbo is a 16g td05 off a evo x
Turbosmart wastegate
Hellmans mbc
Custom hardpiping for lower and upper ic
Modified downpipe to fit stock exhuast with greddy axle back.

If anyone could be of help that would be great

Krookedcanvas

Forgot to mention I am tuned with a evo x ecu. I've had this set up for 2 months and just now acting up. Can a boost leak really effect the acceleration that much? It as slow as a 78 pinto

jakgal04

iTrader: (1)

If I were you, I'd ditch the manual boost controller all together. Not that that is the cause, but you have much more control and reliability with an electronic one.

I think there might be some confusion here, the boost controller basically limits the pressure that the waste-gate sees as a mean of controlling the amount of boost. So for example, if the MBC and the waste-gate spring are set for 10 PSI, the car will spool up to 10 PSI under load. If the MBC is set to 20 PSI, then it's essentially venting some of air, which keeps it from pressurizing the waste-gate spring. So now, instead of the waste-gate opening when the turbo is pushing 10 PSI, it won't open until the turbo pushes 20 PSI. I know those don't reflect your numbers, but use it as a reference.

Also, just because your MBC and waste-gate are set to 10 PSI, it doesn't mean it'll be 10 PSI all the time. At idle you will see a negative number, since the turbo isn't compressing enough air to yield positive aspiration. But once you put the engine under load, and the exhaust gasses start spinning that wheel faster, the compressor will start compressing, giving you the boost you want.

All that being said, a boost leak or a vacuum leak can definitely lead to what you're seeing. Check all of your vacuum lines to make sure they're all connected. Also, if your MBC is opened all the way, it may be causing a massive vacuum leak.

six40

I would ditch the boost controller altogether temporarily until you solve the issue. Get it as simple as possible. Line directly from the WGA to the boost source. Check again for any vacuum leak, check vacuum lines, check plugs... are you throwing a code?

Krookedcanvas

Thanks for the response guys. I'm going to try to eliminate the mbc and see if I have any change. If that doesn't work ill disconnect the wastegate. To see if I can build any boost at all. I did find a hole in my intercooler coupler. Ill be replacing it tonight. Then trying the wastegate and mbc. If all else fails I'm taking it into the shop where I had the work done only 3 months ago. I believe its a combination of bad fab work and installation. But what is really concerning is I have a deeper groan sound when I accelerate from 0 to 30 mph. At 3k rpm the groan sound turns into a plastic bag in the wind sound. I believe its a big boost leak or wastegate stuck open. Does anyone know how to upkaod a video?

jakgal04

iTrader: (1)

The sound you're hearing could be just the leak. I'd fix that first and see if the sound persists. As for uploading a video the best would probably be to upload it to Vimeo and post the link here.

Krookedcanvas

That's what I was thinking. And okay ill give it a shot later today.

six40

I would advise against disconnecting the wastegate. Incase it does boost, if there's no vacuum source to it it will overboost, and quick. Easy way to test the WGA is to take an air compressor, regulate it to 10-15psi and blow said pressure into the vacuum line going to the WGA. You should see the actuator opening and closing the flapper. If this works, the actuator is fine. Make sure it closes and opens all the way.

Krookedcanvas

Hmmm I might be able to try this tonight. So if the arm doesnt move its an indicator the wastegate has something wrong with it correct?

six40

If the arm is frozen in the shut position it means you would be building indefinite boost when you go WOT. That's not the case. But you mentioned ruling out the wastegate actuator. It won't hurt to check it's operation. Unless it somehow froze in the open position, you would build no boost lol

Krookedcanvas

Yes no boost at all. Have -18 at idel. Then when driving around 3500rpm at 0. If I force the gas pedal and rev to 4k rpm I might build 2psi but feels and sounds like something may explode.

Twylyt

+1
Definitely fix the known problem first before chasing your tail looking for others. You have to eliminate as many variables as possible. I'm not sure how big the hole is in your coupler, but it's a leak either way and hopefully is the only issue you have.

Krookedcanvas

I sure hope its the coupler. And its a hood size hole..enough to get a flat head threw. I also just hooked the wastegate up to the turbo eliminating the mbc. And that didnt efdect it. So I know that's not the issue. Will change the coupler out tonight and hopefully that helps.

jakgal04

iTrader: (1)

Any updates on this?

Krookedcanvas

Yesterday I was able to eliminate the mbc with no change to performance. Didnt have time last night to remove bumper to change out the coupler. Will attempt tonight.