Sooo I'm getting ready to go built head

I'm just not sure on the cams
here's the current list

-Ferrea Dual Valve Spring Kit
16 - Dual Springs (S10018)
16 - Titanium Retainers (E11089)
16 - Seat Locators (SL1096)
16 - Valve Locks (K10091)
-Ferrea 6000 Series Stock Size Competition Valves intake/exhaust
-Ferrea Manganese Bronze Standard Size Intake Valve Guides
-Ferrea Standard Size Exhaust Valve Guides
- Aluminum valve cover
-ARP head bolts/studs
-ARP 4 bolt turbo main bolt kit

I was looking at either the Kelford 278/272
Or the GSC S2 Cams any recommendations would be appreciated.

 

I have used GSC s2 cams and I loved them. I now have Kelford 288s and I really like them. I would suggest is what you really want out of the car. Kelfords are going to loap a little more then the GSCs. They will give you about the same performance but I will say the GSC will have better matters on the street. Kelfords will give you more raw power via drag cams really best way I can put it into words. Personally I think the dual valve springs are overkill being Kelfords have 11.5 and 11 lift on them and the GSC have 11.2. You could have gotten away with lighter Kiggly beehives with about 85 to 100 lbs of seat pressure. All in all I think you will be happy with either cam you decide out of the 2.

 

Yeah I knew a head of time that the dual valve springs would be a little over kill and I did look at the beehives and I could honestly still change my mind on them. The springs and cams are the only things I haven't actually purchased yet. Because I cant make up my mind lol. But I'm not just building the head I just want more power than I originally intended so head was the next thing I thought about . I'm going with a gen2 GTX3576R** FBO E85 flex fuel setup. 650-750whp is my end goal. I'm just worried about the cam lift and spring coil bind being an issue. I just don't want to make a mistake and be pushing it with 272s. With some of this being out of my comfort zone as far as building engines go I figured I'd get a second opinion. Lol.

 

I wont lie its a good setup with whichever you go with. I make valve springs for a living the reason I had mentioned it. Honestly your better with the less pressure of the beehives being it will put less wear on the cams as well. I think if you can get a set of Kigglys and have them set around 100 lbs seat pressure you will be fine with whatever cams you go with and the cams will thank you for it lol.

 

Well I definitely appreciate the insight that's for sure, I think I'll be going with the beehives and the kelford 272. Lol. I'm just trying to take my time do my research and get it right the first time I definitely would hate to destroy the engine with over $14,000 worth of parts invested on the first pull 😂

 

Been there done that its not fun nor cheap good luck with the build

 

You should do away with the Ferrea duals and go with the GSC beehives or the conicals based how high you're going to rev the engine, and then choose S2 or S3 cams based on your power goal.

 

I already ordered the beehives so. Might go with the s2 for the time being. I'm slowly buying parts there just so much I want to do. I'm less concerned about the aesthetics more about the perfomance I want to get out of my X. Then when I do but "visual" parts I'm only buying small things to enhance the stock look a little. Lip, sidskirt extensions, headlights, front air vents, and then probably some different break vents. Maybe a new hood idk yet we'll see. Lol. But I definitely appreciate all the advice as this is my first evo.

 

The GSC S2's won't be a limiting factor until you're trying to make more than 800whp or so. They're a great camshaft.

 

Well my acd/ayc pump took a dumb on me so. It's going to be postponed a little. My evo is my daily currently but I know have to *** out $2,300 for a new pump. Then I'm buying a daily and turning the evo into a garage queen. So instead of building a mild hp evo I'm just going to rebuild the car from the ground up. The body needs to be treated for rust because the car came from a northern state which, the salt from the road conditions during the winter is what caused the seal on the ayc pump to corrode and loose pressure and fail. Just took 100k miles for it to happen.

So I'm buying a new pump relocating it to the trunk and pulling the motor and drivetrain. Then going to see what the cost of having the body treated for rust is going to be and go from there.