Cole, I have 4 stock injectors with 30k on them here in Manitoba. I see you ordered some, but if you need them, PM me.

 

Glad someone's looking out for me. At the rate I'm going through injectors, I'll have to keep your offer in mind hahaha

 

Just wanted to point out what Biggie was getting at. If you replaced your OE pump with aftermarket, you need an inline filter in your system. You'll want something <10micron to really prevent injector clogging.
If you can have the car down, sending the injectors out to be cleaned and flow tested might save you a few bucks vs. buying new.

 

New injectors in, car STARTED. Not well at all, and it took a while. She idles but, but the turbo issue is back. Making absolutely no horsepower at all (go figure); the second the clutch stops slipping, she jerks really badly. I've determined that there is no boost leak; I pulled off the lower intercooler hose at the throttle side, and there's tons of air flowing when I rev. My boost gauge only reads vacuum though? It went from about -13 to -18 on rev, which is weird cuz I could've swore that it used to always sit at -18 until boost. Also, there's turbo stutter now. The blowoff valve is attached, and was definitely working before. At least this is still better than before where there was no noise at all when you cut the throttle. Very strange, any ideas?

My only working theory is that making the throttle is a bit stuck. If it was not closing all the way, that would explain the stutter, if the back pressure wasn't strong enough to trigger the valve, but enough to cause compressor surge. With that, if it wasn't opening enough, then maybe it wouldn't be letter enough air in? I know this sounds stupid as hell, but I'm honestly out of ideas haha.

I did get them checked at a diesel shop, see above. I appreciate the info about the pump though. I did know this though, and yesterday my new 320lph pump and inline filter came in the mail.

Edit: turns out the stutter was just the blowoff. I finally found the hex wrench and adjusted the spring. Vents properly now.

I heard people mention a manifold gasket leak. It would have to be a real bad leak I guess. There is coolant leaking, but just the slightest drip, and it looks like it's from the other side of the engine (I did turbo work before, so I assumed it was that).

 

Alright, I took apart and out back together my blowoff valve, and now boost is fine. However, the car won't hold idle for long. It started and held at around 1.2k rpm, them slowly dropped lower and lower to the point where it stalls at idle.

I pulled up EvoScan, and it reports both the front and rear O2 sensors read 0v? Strange? That may have been a problem before that I just didn't seem to matter at highway speeds, but I'm not sure what would cause something like this? Aren't those two sensors are two different harnesses? It looks like the rear O2 connects to the same harness as the heated seats, and I can confirm that the heated seats are working (both sides).

Is it possible I blew up both sensors on the same trip? If anyone has any suggestions on things to check, I would be more than happy to hear them!

Edit: Both LTFT and STFT are stuck to 0.1008% no matter what. That's in "EVOX CAN MUTIII" on EvoScan. On "Golden 2008 USDM v2 EVOX" they're both -18%. I'm not sure what the discrepancy there is, or if that's something to do with my issue?

Edit: after spending an hour messing with the tune, I got STFT to go to about 3% (completely flat) from 0%. I thought STFT was supposed to change fast? Interesting though.