Apologies to anyone who read this on another Evo forum. Lots of views and no replies.

I've been slowly working on my second clutch change in my 2010 and this one has turned out to be far more difficult than the first. Not that the first was easy.

Getting the box back in took at least 4 hours with the aid of an engine hoist. I tried and failed to do it with floor jacks. I could not get it to move the last few millimeters and had to pull it in with a bolt. It went on easy enough with that method. I've checked that the TOB is properly installed and engaged and it all looks good.

I have two issues... one bolt above the transfer case (the more rearward one) did not seem to pick up the threads and indeed stripped about 4 threads from the transmission housing. So... I tried one of the longer bolts from the starter motor and yeah, it went in all the way, and torqued up.

Is this a risky tactic? I have no idea what is on the other side of that bolt hole. I have since asked the staff at Jack's transmissions what is behind that bolt hole and how deep it is. The sales team passed my inquiry onto their tech team and I am awaiting their reply. I figured that if anyone knows it would be them!

Second issue is that the clutch slave cylinder does not want to go back on as the rod is under pressure from the clutch release arm. It may be that the ACT Monoloc engages earlier than the OEM? Is is just a matter of cracking open the bleed valve a little? It gets pretty solid when I try to push the pushrod in.

Thanks for any and all advice.

Oh, and once again I have forgotten where the little silver shield with two 10 mm bolts goes on the O2 housing. Idiot... 😀

 

@nine3shoof

Just thinking outload w/you. Sounds like that longer bolt may have solved the issue? Wonder if rotating the axles just to make sure that bolt is not interfering w/the rotating assembly inside the trans? Be great to hear back from Jacks on the question you posed!

Helicoil or other thread correction method could be done as well if that longer bolt is not the answer. The fact that you got it to torque up (to spec?) sounds OK to me

Cant comment on the slave cylinder issue. Sorry.

And yeah, some threads go w/out reply, at times, even here

Cheers,

 

All of the bell housing and tcase bolts are either blind holes, or go to open air. No concern for interfering with anything. So a longer bolt is fine, or you do a thread repair insert (helicoil or timesert).

 

I chickened out on the last couple of ft lbs TBH But is is damn close to spec. I don't have the axles back in yet but the transfer case is in so can pretty easily test that. And a run through the gears would be a good idea too!

 

Freaking awesome!!! I can actually sleep better knowing this Seriously...

Yes, next time the transmission is out, if there is a next time, I'll check the threads carefully and helicoil if needed. I just can't face pulling all that out and reinstalling it again while the wife is going "why aren't the wheels back on that car yet?" She thinks I am too old to be doing stuff like this

So axles back in tonight. Woo hoo!

Many thanks.

Any idea on my clutch rod no longer fitting?

Jim M.

 

You either have the thowout bearing shoved all the way into the prssure plate (not where it normally sits) so you need to tap/bump it back towards the passenger side of the car. Or you need to push harder to collapse the slave. You can also crack the bleeder to make it easier to compress, you'll just want to bleed the system after doing that.

 

I'll shove harder on the rod as you suggest. I checked the TOB position and it looks good. I know how much force is required to push brake pads into their calipers. Just didn't expect a lot of force on the slave.

 

Well **** it. Leaned hard on the slave and when it went it went suddenly. Lots of room to fit it after that. However, the pedal now travels half way to the floor before doing anything and does not return past the half way point. The clutch fork does move once the resistance begins. I have the Evo 8/9 MC and there is some adjustment but I doubt there is that much. No sign of fluid anywhere.

 

You may need to bleed it.

 

Agreed... worth a try before ordering parts! Fluid has been purchased, and will bleed this evening!

 

And after a quick pressure bleed I now have a functioning pedal!

 

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