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best order to mod?

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Old May 12, 2008 | 06:00 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by dcasandman
I thought with the Eccutek tune you dont need a mbc since it can control the boost with the ECU. Plus the maps Ive seen with ECU controlled boost look really smooth.
anyone care to elaborate oon this?
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Old May 12, 2008 | 06:42 AM
  #17  
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From: Franklin, TN
Originally Posted by thfc1799
anyone care to elaborate oon this?
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=341559

Intercooler does NOT heat soak. Back to back runs on the dyno, its straight needle consistent.

Get the car tuned. If you want a little more bang for your buck, get an exhaust first then get it tuned. Its not like the same car anymore at all. If accelerates and sounds like an Evo now.
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Old May 12, 2008 | 06:49 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Noize
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=341559

Intercooler does NOT heat soak. Back to back runs on the dyno, its straight needle consistent.

Get the car tuned. If you want a little more bang for your buck, get an exhaust first then get it tuned. Its not like the same car anymore at all. If accelerates and sounds like an Evo now.
I ment elaborate on wether or not you need an MBC if you have a tune. But good info either way.
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Old May 12, 2008 | 06:55 AM
  #19  
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n/m. I found what i needed on that link ^^^ I guess I'm not gonna buy an MBC then, I'll put the money I would've spent on that into something else.
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Old May 12, 2008 | 07:00 AM
  #20  
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From: Oklahoma City
Originally Posted by thfc1799
I ment elaborate on wether or not you need an MBC if you have a tune. But good info either way.
I talked to Adam Perrin through several email messages cause i was about to buy an MBC. He said that is not the way to go with the X. He basically said what I wrote in the previous thread that boost could be controlled by ECU and the Dyno curves look better. I can forward the email if you want I still think I have it not sure though..
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Old May 12, 2008 | 07:08 AM
  #21  
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thanks man, I'd appreciate it. Always trying to learn more
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Old May 12, 2008 | 07:14 AM
  #22  
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From: Oklahoma City
Originally Posted by thfc1799
thanks man, I'd appreciate it. Always trying to learn more
Im new at this also. Ive spent the last 2months trying to figure all the dam terminology out. Hell they need a sticky thread just so noobs know what all the acronyms are. I moded my last car, but there was a limited amout of stuff I could do with it. this EVO community can be pretty overwhelming with all the companies and peoples strong opinions about each. The one constant is see im every threaf though is Sean Ivey is the man lol. To bad his shop is 1000 miles from Oklahoma.
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Old May 12, 2008 | 07:30 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by dcasandman
Im new at this also. Ive spent the last 2months trying to figure all the dam terminology out. Hell they need a sticky thread just so noobs know what all the acronyms are. I moded my last car, but there was a limited amout of stuff I could do with it. this EVO community can be pretty overwhelming with all the companies and peoples strong opinions about each. The one constant is see im every threaf though is Sean Ivey is the man lol. To bad his shop is 1000 miles from Oklahoma.
lol... so true.
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Old May 12, 2008 | 10:41 AM
  #24  
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From: Minneapolis
Originally Posted by Noize

Intercooler does NOT heat soak. Back to back runs on the dyno, its straight needle consistent.
Interesting you say that.......
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
Today we installed the FMIC kit. The results were very shocking. We put the new BR FMIC on the car and loaded the car on the

We made 3 runs back to back with each intercooler. We used no fan on the dyno as we were measuring surface temps and did not want the fan to mess with our measurements. I will list this with air temps and HP/Torque.

BR FMIC

1st run, 295 whp/256 torque
Start inlet temp 49 degrees Starting outlet temp 48 degrees
Inlet after pull 52 degrees Outlet after pull 48.5 degrees

2nd run, 294 whp/256 torque
Start inlet temp 52.5 degrees Starting outlet temp 48 degrees
Inlet after pull 54 degrees Outlet after pull 49 degrees

3rd run, 284 whp/246 torque
Start inlet temp 54 degrees Starting outlet temp 49 degrees
Inlet after pull 57 degrees Outlet after pull 50 degrees

So you can see from the above that the power/torque was consistent and the intercooler stayed cool. In three back to back pulls the inlet tank went from 49 degrees to 57 degrees and the outlet tank went from 48 degrees to 50 degrees.

We then took the BR FMIC off the car and put the stock FMIC back on the car. We made the change on the dyno with no other changes.

1st run, 274 whp/240 torque
Start inlet temp 54 degrees Starting outlet temp 52 degrees
Inlet after pull 82 degrees Outlet after pull 64 degrees

2nd run, 271 whp/231 torque
Start inlet temp 79.5 degrees Starting outlet temp 59 degrees
Inlet after pull 93 degrees Outlet after pull 77 degrees

3rd run, 264 whp/230 torque
Start inlet temp 85 degrees Starting outlet temp 63 degrees
Inlet after pull 100.5 degrees Outlet after pull 84 degrees

Very shocking to see the stock FMIC inlet continue to raise temps. I had the peak boost set at 24 psi with our FMIC kit. When we put the stock intercooler back on the boost dropped about 1.5 psi. So our FMIC has 1.5 less pressure drop than the stock core does.
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Old May 12, 2008 | 01:04 PM
  #25  
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learning the car limits and getting know the car on track. for the first mods.
Many will be surprise how much potential actually the car is hiding.


The 50-100 hp gain, is really easy to over come with some skills.
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