Rally Armor Mud Flaps
" quote
It's true, though even in places used less frequently I'm not used to seeing metal screwed into plastic on cars. I'm new to Mitsubishis, but I've had at least a few Hondas completely disassembled and can't say I've ever once seen a metal screw in a plastic fastener.
Now, I'm certain given their reputation that Rally Armor knows what they're doing, it just bothers me a bit. If I can easily switch to metal hardware/black screws (or caps) I will, otherwise I'll probably just order and use as-is. I need something permanent before winter. The $5 special devised here isn't going to cut it "
yes , also the black screws maybe will fade out later, then what?
Will be a huge: i told you they selling crap thread, as a way this thread going.
I dont know why is so negative some guys here. And they dont even used this flaps yet...
weird at least.
This flaps was tested with aggressive wheels and tire set up too. This is shows how they thinking ahead....
So not like most mud flaps it will fit with those set ups, not just OEM or close to oem wheel and tire set ups.
There is more job - research behind these things, that you can imagine.
It's true, though even in places used less frequently I'm not used to seeing metal screwed into plastic on cars. I'm new to Mitsubishis, but I've had at least a few Hondas completely disassembled and can't say I've ever once seen a metal screw in a plastic fastener.
Now, I'm certain given their reputation that Rally Armor knows what they're doing, it just bothers me a bit. If I can easily switch to metal hardware/black screws (or caps) I will, otherwise I'll probably just order and use as-is. I need something permanent before winter. The $5 special devised here isn't going to cut it "
yes , also the black screws maybe will fade out later, then what?
Will be a huge: i told you they selling crap thread, as a way this thread going.
I dont know why is so negative some guys here. And they dont even used this flaps yet...
weird at least.
This flaps was tested with aggressive wheels and tire set up too. This is shows how they thinking ahead....
So not like most mud flaps it will fit with those set ups, not just OEM or close to oem wheel and tire set ups.
There is more job - research behind these things, that you can imagine.
Evolved Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 860
Likes: 1
From: Bay Area
Anodized screws don't fade, but are fairly expensive and you do have to be careful not to wear down the aluminum when installing or the silver will show through. Simple caps don't fade either, and they're cheap. Sharpie will fade, though reapplication is easy, and paint will probably chip given the constant sand-blasting they'll get.
I'm not being entirely negative. I think they look like a great product and I'll be ordering a set for myself shortly, but I still think that at least the screw color is something that should have been addressed, as it looks pretty bad. I could chalk the plastic clips up to me being paranoid.
I'm not being entirely negative. I think they look like a great product and I'll be ordering a set for myself shortly, but I still think that at least the screw color is something that should have been addressed, as it looks pretty bad. I could chalk the plastic clips up to me being paranoid.
Anodized screws don't fade, but are fairly expensive and you do have to be careful not to wear down the aluminum when installing or the silver will show through. Simple caps don't fade either, and they're cheap. Sharpie will fade, though reapplication is easy, and paint will probably chip given the constant sand-blasting they'll get.
I'm not being entirely negative. I think they look like a great product and I'll be ordering a set for myself shortly, but I still think that at least the screw color is something that should have been addressed, as it looks pretty bad. I could chalk the plastic clips up to me being paranoid.
I'm not being entirely negative. I think they look like a great product and I'll be ordering a set for myself shortly, but I still think that at least the screw color is something that should have been addressed, as it looks pretty bad. I could chalk the plastic clips up to me being paranoid.
Since i don't know any manufacturer who made mudflaps with black screws , i don't think you guys got something unexpected or extraordinary with the silver screws. Even when you spend 4 times more on the mudflaps they dont give you those options. Seems to me not so many people concern about being black or silver. Because end of the day these are mudflaps... and not some kinda of jewelry.
But anyway the RA took notice about the comments. I dont know who actually did talk to them on the phone about any problems, they can tell you about they customer service and a way they handle the situations if they exists.
So just call them up and discuss it with them.
Last edited by Robevo RS; Aug 24, 2008 at 04:48 AM.
Evolved Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 860
Likes: 1
From: Bay Area
Yeah, you commonly see caps on license plate holders to cover the screw heads. Something like that. It's not unheard of... for example, the OEM mud flaps:
This is beetle_orange's X with the black/silver OEM flaps.
This is beetle_orange's X with the black/silver OEM flaps.
So, I had plans yesterday and zero intention of installing the flaps. Plans fell through and I was left with a couple of hours with nothing to do. I figure that I have to make 2 small holes in the front fender liners and that's the only damage I would incur, so let's spend some time getting dirty. The instructions are very good and can be a little confusing when just reading: so read them once first, then follow them while installing and it will all make sense. The instructions really are very good and it's nice they even include them. However, I printed them out in colour just because I'm classy like that 
. It IS possible to install the rears without removing the rear wheels, but do yourself a favour and jack the back end up some to give you a little more clearance for the inner most screw. Once you've done one side you can literally do the other side in 10 minutes. Start to finish was a little under 2 hours with constant breaks because I'm fat and sweat a lot.
So, my opinion? Still not happy. I hate the plastic hardware. I thought I was going to strip every single plastic bracket. The mounting for the rear L brackets would probably be better without the washer over the screw, or a smaller washer. Also, at the rear there is no mounting point in the middle but there's a stock fastener right behind the flap. Not sure why they didn't utilise that as it seems it could do with an extra mounting point. I probably spent as much time trying to get the rears level as I did installing them.
My smallest complaint is the silver screws. A Sharpie took care of that problem. Plus, it's easy to touch up should it fade/chip! Not as big a deal as those plastic fasteners....
I'm not sure I like the flaps to be honest. The rears stick out quite a ways and look weird. I might remove the rears and just keep the fronts; no big deal. I'm only trying to prevent the side of my car being stripped of paint anyway, so the rears aren't needed (even though people behind me might disagree). Yes, the fronts also stick out more than the OEM flaps, but that's one of the reasons I went with the Rally Armor flaps as the added protection is important to me.
I guess I should post some pics:
I just realised how ****ty the stock muffler looks. Wow, that's horrible.
. It IS possible to install the rears without removing the rear wheels, but do yourself a favour and jack the back end up some to give you a little more clearance for the inner most screw. Once you've done one side you can literally do the other side in 10 minutes. Start to finish was a little under 2 hours with constant breaks because I'm fat and sweat a lot.So, my opinion? Still not happy. I hate the plastic hardware. I thought I was going to strip every single plastic bracket. The mounting for the rear L brackets would probably be better without the washer over the screw, or a smaller washer. Also, at the rear there is no mounting point in the middle but there's a stock fastener right behind the flap. Not sure why they didn't utilise that as it seems it could do with an extra mounting point. I probably spent as much time trying to get the rears level as I did installing them.
My smallest complaint is the silver screws. A Sharpie took care of that problem. Plus, it's easy to touch up should it fade/chip! Not as big a deal as those plastic fasteners....
I'm not sure I like the flaps to be honest. The rears stick out quite a ways and look weird. I might remove the rears and just keep the fronts; no big deal. I'm only trying to prevent the side of my car being stripped of paint anyway, so the rears aren't needed (even though people behind me might disagree). Yes, the fronts also stick out more than the OEM flaps, but that's one of the reasons I went with the Rally Armor flaps as the added protection is important to me.
I guess I should post some pics:
I just realised how ****ty the stock muffler looks. Wow, that's horrible.
Evolved Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 860
Likes: 1
From: Bay Area
The rears do look a little odd, but mud flaps usually do on cars. We're not buying them for their good looks
Is it just the angle, or is the driver's side rear flap sitting up higher than the passenger side?
Another question. Are the rear flaps different from the fronts? I know the mounting is different, but I can't tell if the UR flaps themselves are different. A buddy and I might split a set and do the fronts only if they're the same.
Is it just the angle, or is the driver's side rear flap sitting up higher than the passenger side?
Another question. Are the rear flaps different from the fronts? I know the mounting is different, but I can't tell if the UR flaps themselves are different. A buddy and I might split a set and do the fronts only if they're the same.
The rears do look a little odd, but mud flaps usually do on cars. We're not buying them for their good looks
Is it just the angle, or is the driver's side rear flap sitting up higher than the passenger side?
Another question. Are the rear flaps different from the fronts? I know the mounting is different, but I can't tell if the UR flaps themselves are different. A buddy and I might split a set and do the fronts only if they're the same.
Is it just the angle, or is the driver's side rear flap sitting up higher than the passenger side?
Another question. Are the rear flaps different from the fronts? I know the mounting is different, but I can't tell if the UR flaps themselves are different. A buddy and I might split a set and do the fronts only if they're the same.
The rears do look a little odd, but mud flaps usually do on cars. We're not buying them for their good looks
Is it just the angle, or is the driver's side rear flap sitting up higher than the passenger side?
Another question. Are the rear flaps different from the fronts? I know the mounting is different, but I can't tell if the UR flaps themselves are different. A buddy and I might split a set and do the fronts only if they're the same.
Is it just the angle, or is the driver's side rear flap sitting up higher than the passenger side?
Another question. Are the rear flaps different from the fronts? I know the mounting is different, but I can't tell if the UR flaps themselves are different. A buddy and I might split a set and do the fronts only if they're the same.
I blacked all the badges; the Lancer and Evolution were a *****. Use some masking tape to mark the original location, then with a hairdryer and some tooth floss remove the badges. Scrub the badges with some Scotch Bright pads, remove the left over sticky stuff, and paint with Krylon black paint & clearcoat. The hardest part is to reapply the sticky stuff. I used the 3M tape that has a red backing to it and a sharp knife. It took hours to do! Be careful if you do the Evolution badge as I broke mine taking it off and had to glue it back together.
Last edited by UFO; Aug 24, 2008 at 06:38 PM.
They are very different so that would be a no go I'm afraid. The grass is obscuring part of the passenger wheel, so it just looks lower: I actually measured the distance and they're the same.
I blacked all the badges; the Lancer and Evolution were a *****. Use some masking tape to mark the original location, then with a hairdryer and some tooth floss remove the badges. Scrub the badges with some Scotch Bright pads, remove the left over sticky stuff, and paint with Krylon black paint & clearcoat. The hardest part is to reapply the sticky stuff. I used the 3M tape that has a red backing to it and a sharp knife. It took hours to do! Be careful if you do the Evolution badge as I broke mine taking it off and had to glue it back together.
I blacked all the badges; the Lancer and Evolution were a *****. Use some masking tape to mark the original location, then with a hairdryer and some tooth floss remove the badges. Scrub the badges with some Scotch Bright pads, remove the left over sticky stuff, and paint with Krylon black paint & clearcoat. The hardest part is to reapply the sticky stuff. I used the 3M tape that has a red backing to it and a sharp knife. It took hours to do! Be careful if you do the Evolution badge as I broke mine taking it off and had to glue it back together.
Thanks for letting me know how you did it tho.
