Rally Armor Mud Flaps
So let me ask you guys this.
What all do I need for installation and approximately how long will it take with the Aero Kit? I am picking my evo up not this weekend but the next, and have to drive it about 14 hours back. I don't want any rock chips. Will I be able to install these on the road after leaving the dealer lot?
Thanks.
What all do I need for installation and approximately how long will it take with the Aero Kit? I am picking my evo up not this weekend but the next, and have to drive it about 14 hours back. I don't want any rock chips. Will I be able to install these on the road after leaving the dealer lot?
Thanks.
So let me ask you guys this.
What all do I need for installation and approximately how long will it take with the Aero Kit? I am picking my evo up not this weekend but the next, and have to drive it about 14 hours back. I don't want any rock chips. Will I be able to install these on the road after leaving the dealer lot?
Thanks.
What all do I need for installation and approximately how long will it take with the Aero Kit? I am picking my evo up not this weekend but the next, and have to drive it about 14 hours back. I don't want any rock chips. Will I be able to install these on the road after leaving the dealer lot?
Thanks.
I would think it would take about an hour if you took the wheels off? Took me longer than that.
Offset screwdriver is the only tool i can think of off the top of my head that you would need tho.
Do yourself a favor and take the back wheels off. If you dont, you will have to jack the car up and use an offset screwdriver. Thats what I did. It was quite a pain. The first one took a long time but then after I understood how it went, the 2nd one went fairly quickly. The instructions are pretty good.
I would think it would take about an hour if you took the wheels off? Took me longer than that.
Offset screwdriver is the only tool i can think of off the top of my head that you would need tho.
I would think it would take about an hour if you took the wheels off? Took me longer than that.
Offset screwdriver is the only tool i can think of off the top of my head that you would need tho.
I agree with doing just the front flaps. All you need to do it turn the wheels so you can get behind them. The rear flaps need the wheels removed. Its a straight foward install and should take like 20min for both front flaps to go on. Just bring a screw driver and some kind of pick to get the factory pegs off.
It was an hour drive from picking up my car and i got a nice little rock chip in the side skirt on the way home. You can see the black plastic peeled back and white underneath.
It was an hour drive from picking up my car and i got a nice little rock chip in the side skirt on the way home. You can see the black plastic peeled back and white underneath.
I agree with doing just the front flaps. All you need to do it turn the wheels so you can get behind them. The rear flaps need the wheels removed. Its a straight foward install and should take like 20min for both front flaps to go on. Just bring a screw driver and some kind of pick to get the factory pegs off.
It was an hour drive from picking up my car and i got a nice little rock chip in the side skirt on the way home. You can see the black plastic peeled back and white underneath.
It was an hour drive from picking up my car and i got a nice little rock chip in the side skirt on the way home. You can see the black plastic peeled back and white underneath.
You could hit all the important parts in less than a roll. You don't need to do the entire doors, dings are constrained to a few strategic spots.
Get the flare-out on the rear door up to about 12-18" from the bottom of the door, and at a 45degree angle down to about the same distance from the rear of the door.
Get the lower rocker panel to about 2-3' from the rear wheel back.
Get the thin panel behind the rear door up to a point that matches where you stopped on the door itself, making sure to get tape into the doorjamb itself. Many have chips where the panel turns 90degrees into the doorjamb.
Finally, do the rocker panel from the front wheel back about 2', making sure you do the bottom of the panel as this is where it chips.
I also do the forward 6" of the hood, but the bumper is remarkably resilient so I leave it alone.
If you do those, you'll be fine. That's my taping routine for track days. If you get a thick 1.5" or 2" roll you won't even need the entire thing.
This gives you an idea of what I do for minimal coverage:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/28546494@N06/2751323241/
Unfortunately I don't have a pic of the car with the coverage I described above. The important part is that little triangle on and behind the rear door.
Get the flare-out on the rear door up to about 12-18" from the bottom of the door, and at a 45degree angle down to about the same distance from the rear of the door.
Get the lower rocker panel to about 2-3' from the rear wheel back.
Get the thin panel behind the rear door up to a point that matches where you stopped on the door itself, making sure to get tape into the doorjamb itself. Many have chips where the panel turns 90degrees into the doorjamb.
Finally, do the rocker panel from the front wheel back about 2', making sure you do the bottom of the panel as this is where it chips.
I also do the forward 6" of the hood, but the bumper is remarkably resilient so I leave it alone.
If you do those, you'll be fine. That's my taping routine for track days. If you get a thick 1.5" or 2" roll you won't even need the entire thing.
This gives you an idea of what I do for minimal coverage:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/28546494@N06/2751323241/
Unfortunately I don't have a pic of the car with the coverage I described above. The important part is that little triangle on and behind the rear door.
Last edited by gizmotoy; Nov 26, 2008 at 12:41 PM.
I just finished the install.
These definitely will help with saving the paint.
It seems as if the polygon clips don't really help with protecting the paint though. After I tried the first one I realized it would be a better idea to pre-thread each polygon clip myself and then do the install. I still noticed that it had scratched some of the paint off on the initial threading. I'm just hoping their won't be any problems with rust in my future.
These definitely will help with saving the paint.
It seems as if the polygon clips don't really help with protecting the paint though. After I tried the first one I realized it would be a better idea to pre-thread each polygon clip myself and then do the install. I still noticed that it had scratched some of the paint off on the initial threading. I'm just hoping their won't be any problems with rust in my future.
Last edited by aftershock141; Dec 27, 2008 at 01:47 PM.
It was covered in dust from sitting in my garage for two weeks...and we recently had real humid weather so it was all wet and spotted. It doesn't show too much though.
Thanks man...read above haha.
I will be come spring haha.
I will be come spring haha.







wish i got black screws
