Not even 500 Miles :(
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: West
The act of doing a few donuts, especially in the snow (or similar no/low traction situations), isn't going to be the source of your problem with the power steering, because that would only possibly strain the AWD system, suspension, or transmission. The source of the problem would be if you held the steering wheel all the way hard against the stop at either end of its range of travel for an extended period of time. Regardless if why you did it or what your car was doing at the time, that would be a possible source for power steering system damage.
Anyone who's all "zomg you did some donuts in the snow at 500 miles?!", acting like that's some sort of death sentence for the car, doesn't know what they're talking about.
Anyone who's all "zomg you did some donuts in the snow at 500 miles?!", acting like that's some sort of death sentence for the car, doesn't know what they're talking about.
Really? You dont think? 
I read it in a number of publications, and I can tell you this. I KNOW my car does not burn oil, and is on the very healthy side of stock power output...
To each is their own, but I took those precautions and avoided boost for the first few thousand miles, and have been rewarded because of this.
Heres on such article:
http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...term_road_test
Sorry, I forgot, I went the first 1000 miles, not few thousand. I appologize, its been almost 4 years since that time.
I read it in a number of publications, and I can tell you this. I KNOW my car does not burn oil, and is on the very healthy side of stock power output...
To each is their own, but I took those precautions and avoided boost for the first few thousand miles, and have been rewarded because of this.
Heres on such article:
http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...term_road_test
Sorry, I forgot, I went the first 1000 miles, not few thousand. I appologize, its been almost 4 years since that time.
Its ok bro
I babied mine for 500 miles, boosted a little for the next 250 miles or so, then beat on it to finish the job for a couple hundred miles. I don't burn a drop of oil, even after a full weekend at the track.
Sl0evo, that is pretty common with bikes. A lot of people suggest beating the **** out of the motor from day one, to get it nice and loose so that it makes a little more power. Loose motors tend not to last as long though, from what I have seen of track cars. Bikes it is fine, since they tend to not put on nearly as many miles as cars before selling them.
High performance cars break if abused.
Yes, my Evo leaves the garage. It actually has been to autocrosses and track days too. I have never pulled donuts with it though, for fear of breaking a diff or something else.
I have to ask, was the steering bad before the donuts?
Yes, my Evo leaves the garage. It actually has been to autocrosses and track days too. I have never pulled donuts with it though, for fear of breaking a diff or something else.
I have to ask, was the steering bad before the donuts?
I cant believe people are talking about breaking in the motor. Obviously not alot of you guys know about breaking in a motor, but the break in period should be EXACTLY like the car is going to be driven full time. Meaning if you're going to beat on the car daily, you should beat on it to break it in, and I've got plenty of proof to back this. Also a power steering pump shouldn't go bad in 500miles even if you drift it from the day you got it.
Take it back to Mitsubishi, yeah its a pain in the *** but they will fix it.
Take it back to Mitsubishi, yeah its a pain in the *** but they will fix it.
Where is your proof, out of curiousity. You say its obvious not a lot of us know, I could manage to claim the same about you based on a number of articles stated a motor should be broken in, including the one I gave the link to in this very thread.
yep i jus barely hit 500 miles in my evo X and the power steering is already all messed up, and i didnt even beat on it, The steering wheel is strugglin to turn, It makes so much noise seems to be from the rack, and a bubbling noise which appears to be from behind the steering wheel.. 
i have NO luck with 
damn I love this car but here goes another troublesome one. Back to the dealer 2morrow
i have NO luck with damn I love this car but here goes another troublesome one. Back to the dealer 2morrow
"Musta slipped my mind"
I love it
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: USA
To comment on the break in theory; it's not theory, there's definitive proof of how it should be done and how not to do it. In the cylinder chamber, there are cross hatched honing patterns that are meant to provide a mating surface for the piston rings to rub against during break in. While it is always advised to stay below the rpm that the manufacturer recommends, there is a lot more to it than that, and the manuals never get into it in proper detail.
The most important thing is to vary the load and rpms frequently, using a mix of light, medium, and full throttle with lots of accel/decel variation again, staying below the recommended rpm limit for the break in as stated by the manual. Too gentle of a break in, and the rings don't have enough pressure from the combustion gases to properly force them against the cylinder wall and as a result, the entire circumference of the rings don't maintain uniform contact with the cylinder walls and wear unevenly.
This will lead to an engine having more oil consumption down the road, because oil will get past the more heavily worn spots around the rings and get into the combustion chamber. Fuel will also gets past the rings on the other side and get into the oil supply more easily, causing the oil to break down more quickly. Breaking in an engine too hard has it's consequences too, however. The rings can wear too much during the break in period because the cross hatch pattern on the cylinder walls is still very rough and hasn't been worn down enough for those kind of sustained pressure levels. What can happen from this is scarring of the cylinder walls and ring failure down the road. Compression loss in one or more cylinders can happen as well.
Hopefully by explaining in detail exactly what is occuring during the break in process, it will help everyone understand why there is a right way and a wrong way to break in an engine and that all of these "theories" that some of you seem to have are useless without the proper knowledge. Anyway, back on topic...
The most important thing is to vary the load and rpms frequently, using a mix of light, medium, and full throttle with lots of accel/decel variation again, staying below the recommended rpm limit for the break in as stated by the manual. Too gentle of a break in, and the rings don't have enough pressure from the combustion gases to properly force them against the cylinder wall and as a result, the entire circumference of the rings don't maintain uniform contact with the cylinder walls and wear unevenly.
This will lead to an engine having more oil consumption down the road, because oil will get past the more heavily worn spots around the rings and get into the combustion chamber. Fuel will also gets past the rings on the other side and get into the oil supply more easily, causing the oil to break down more quickly. Breaking in an engine too hard has it's consequences too, however. The rings can wear too much during the break in period because the cross hatch pattern on the cylinder walls is still very rough and hasn't been worn down enough for those kind of sustained pressure levels. What can happen from this is scarring of the cylinder walls and ring failure down the road. Compression loss in one or more cylinders can happen as well.
Hopefully by explaining in detail exactly what is occuring during the break in process, it will help everyone understand why there is a right way and a wrong way to break in an engine and that all of these "theories" that some of you seem to have are useless without the proper knowledge. Anyway, back on topic...
Last edited by STi2EvoX; Dec 23, 2008 at 05:48 PM.
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From: Fall River (S.E.) MA
Well Well well.... Got my car back 2day, and indeed it was some defect, that hes never seen... Some washers somewhere in the powersteering were pinched.... Soooo , twas not me... he he he.
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Dove my car to 2k before I came even close to redline!
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From: Fall River (S.E.) MA
The fact is it was defect, so I will blame that.
When I first went to test drive this car, there was some fluid on the floor and my dad was like hey is that oil, and of course the salesman is like oh no its not.... Who knows maybe that was PS fluid?
When I first went to test drive this car, there was some fluid on the floor and my dad was like hey is that oil, and of course the salesman is like oh no its not.... Who knows maybe that was PS fluid?
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