Do I need anything else?
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: KSA
^ The car is an MR but it's 5 speed manual transmission.
and BTW does anyone know what these two things pictured below are? or where I can buy them?
Firstly the engine hood scoop
secondly have they done anything to the lights? it looks like an LED conversion
:
and BTW does anyone know what these two things pictured below are? or where I can buy them?
Firstly the engine hood scoop
secondly have they done anything to the lights? it looks like an LED conversion
:
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: KSA
^ Humm ok thanks for the info, but does it make a difference?
Ok a little update on today, Radiator is on, exhaust cat-back is on, but we're having trouble getting one nut out of the Downpipe and we need some help:
Now here's where we're having the problem, how the hell does anyone access this bolt from the bottom? it's near impossible from the top, and we could just about reach it with extensions but it's at an angel and with the extensions we cannot get it to sit flush with the screw to pull it out. We've managed to get one side out but not the other. Any help would be appreciated
Ok a little update on today, Radiator is on, exhaust cat-back is on, but we're having trouble getting one nut out of the Downpipe and we need some help:
Now here's where we're having the problem, how the hell does anyone access this bolt from the bottom? it's near impossible from the top, and we could just about reach it with extensions but it's at an angel and with the extensions we cannot get it to sit flush with the screw to pull it out. We've managed to get one side out but not the other. Any help would be appreciated
Humm, sleeved motor? what's that?
By Coss valve springs you mean the cosworth valve springs? If so why would you advice them? and would it be ok to just fit the Cams without the upgraded valve springs?
I think the fpr is already included in the fueling kit, I'll double check, and if you see duplicates of any parts it's because they're for my friend.
What are the head studs? and do I really need to change them to get a new head gasket in there?
I was looking into that option, but figured I'd have more fun building it up and enjoying the car with all the different parts I fit.
On a side note sorry if I'm not very knowledgeable in upgrading turbos especially for the X then bare with me. I just need a few helpful hints to get things moving, thanks.
By Coss valve springs you mean the cosworth valve springs? If so why would you advice them? and would it be ok to just fit the Cams without the upgraded valve springs?
I think the fpr is already included in the fueling kit, I'll double check, and if you see duplicates of any parts it's because they're for my friend.
What are the head studs? and do I really need to change them to get a new head gasket in there?
I was looking into that option, but figured I'd have more fun building it up and enjoying the car with all the different parts I fit.
On a side note sorry if I'm not very knowledgeable in upgrading turbos especially for the X then bare with me. I just need a few helpful hints to get things moving, thanks.
*edit* shakes head... nevermind, have fun with putting everything on lol
Last edited by Methodical4u; Sep 15, 2009 at 06:59 AM.
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From: KSA
Thanks for the insight, umm yeah I'm not sure what the head studs are referring to, and please bare in mind I'm not the only one fitting the parts, also I'm not planning on installing all the parts myself, only the easy plug and play items. Buying all the stuff in the list in the first page wasn't only down to my decision but a group one so You can't really purely hold me for blame.
Little update on yesterday, we managed to get the down-pipe out and now in the process of installing the exhaust bits. I won't have pic updates for a week because I'm travelling but I'll update you guys once I'm back
Little update on yesterday, we managed to get the down-pipe out and now in the process of installing the exhaust bits. I won't have pic updates for a week because I'm travelling but I'll update you guys once I'm back
Considering it's hard for the larger driver socket to sit face flush on that (the sockets w/ 1/2" drive, or 3/8" drive had longer u-joints), I ended up using a size 14mm socket w/ a 1/4" drive u-joint..
For some reason, the smaller length u-joint made it easier for the socket to sit flushed in. Additionally, you can stick your hand on the left side and support / guide the socket flush in place when cranking (so it doesn't fly off).
Make sure you clean the threads and add anti-sieze before putting it back all together.
Last edited by funks; Sep 16, 2009 at 01:20 AM.
That bolt is by far not very hard compared to the Drivers Side nut and 2 on the heatshield for the 02 pipe.
I used a ratchetting breaker and an extension for that. I also used a mac or snap-on swivel socket. They don't swivel in every direction like some, but that allow you to get more force or leverage on the bolt in a small area.
Wait till you get to the o2 pipe heatshield. If you do a search in the HOW-TO section for "Step by Step Downpipe removal" that should help you out a bit. I was stuck on the o2 pipe heatshield for longer then anything. And the turbo side nut on the stud from the 02 housing was a real pain too.
I used a ratchetting breaker and an extension for that. I also used a mac or snap-on swivel socket. They don't swivel in every direction like some, but that allow you to get more force or leverage on the bolt in a small area.
Wait till you get to the o2 pipe heatshield. If you do a search in the HOW-TO section for "Step by Step Downpipe removal" that should help you out a bit. I was stuck on the o2 pipe heatshield for longer then anything. And the turbo side nut on the stud from the 02 housing was a real pain too.
Last edited by solipsism; Sep 18, 2009 at 10:14 AM.
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: KSA
Hi guys, sorry haven’t updated you guys lately, been out of the country. Ok so we’re back in action, listed below is what has been fitted to the car:
Mishimoto Evo X Radiator
AMS Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X Radiator Hose Kit
HKS Intercooler Kit R-type CZ4A Evo X
AMS EVO X Twin Tip Turbo Back Exhaust With Test Pipes
Blitz Boost Control SBC -ID III - Black Spec R
FP RED Turbocharger
HKS M45XL Spark Plugs
Plasma Direct Series Ignition System (Coil-Pack)
The problem I’m having now is that the guy who I was going to use to re-map the ECU has told me he doesn’t know how, and he has suggested just fitting the F-con computer system. We’ve currently got one F-Con unit which is being used in the other Evo (the GSR) and I don’t want to buy another F-con unit if I can re-map the stock ECU to run well with the FP Red turbo.
We’ve done 2 dyno runs; the first showed us 210hp I think @ 10psi, second run gave us 280hp @ 18psi. The max I’ve got the car running now is 20psi but there are problems. Please see below:
The boost doesn’t kick in until after 5k. If the car is pushed hard (i.e. red lining it then throws up the traction control sign and the dash display turns yellow with the traction control warning light, which stays on until you restart the computer.)
When the car goes to safe mode all boost is lost and the engine sounds bad at idle. The rpm needle keeps on jumping between 1-2k and the exhaust keeps spluttering as if I was on the gas revving it to 2k and then back to idle.
So any ideas what I could do to get the stock ECU remapped? Or have we fitted something wrong since the turbo only kicks in at 5k? My tuner told me it could be the turbo actuator and suggested I change it to an HKS one.
The car is personal and it's a little hobby we have: anyway update on what's happened:
Hi guys, sorry haven’t updated you guys lately, been out of the country. Ok so we’re back in action, listed below is what has been fitted to the car:
Mishimoto Evo X Radiator
AMS Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X Radiator Hose Kit
HKS Intercooler Kit R-type CZ4A Evo X
AMS EVO X Twin Tip Turbo Back Exhaust With Test Pipes
Blitz Boost Control SBC -ID III - Black Spec R
FP RED Turbocharger
HKS M45XL Spark Plugs
Plasma Direct Series Ignition System (Coil-Pack)
The problem I’m having now is that the guy who I was going to use to re-map the ECU has told me he doesn’t know how, and he has suggested just fitting the F-con computer system. We’ve currently got one F-Con unit which is being used in the other Evo (the GSR) and I don’t want to buy another F-con unit if I can re-map the stock ECU to run well with the FP Red turbo.
We’ve done 2 dyno runs; the first showed us 210hp I think @ 10psi, second run gave us 280hp @ 18psi. The max I’ve got the car running now is 20psi but there are problems. Please see below:
The boost doesn’t kick in until after 5k. If the car is pushed hard (i.e. red lining it then throws up the traction control sign and the dash display turns yellow with the traction control warning light, which stays on until you restart the computer.)
When the car goes to safe mode all boost is lost and the engine sounds bad at idle. The rpm needle keeps on jumping between 1-2k and the exhaust keeps spluttering as if I was on the gas revving it to 2k and then back to idle.
So any ideas what I could do to get the stock ECU remapped? Or have we fitted something wrong since the turbo only kicks in at 5k? My tuner told me it could be the turbo actuator and suggested I change it to an HKS one.
Hi guys, sorry haven’t updated you guys lately, been out of the country. Ok so we’re back in action, listed below is what has been fitted to the car:
Mishimoto Evo X Radiator
AMS Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X Radiator Hose Kit
HKS Intercooler Kit R-type CZ4A Evo X
AMS EVO X Twin Tip Turbo Back Exhaust With Test Pipes
Blitz Boost Control SBC -ID III - Black Spec R
FP RED Turbocharger
HKS M45XL Spark Plugs
Plasma Direct Series Ignition System (Coil-Pack)
The problem I’m having now is that the guy who I was going to use to re-map the ECU has told me he doesn’t know how, and he has suggested just fitting the F-con computer system. We’ve currently got one F-Con unit which is being used in the other Evo (the GSR) and I don’t want to buy another F-con unit if I can re-map the stock ECU to run well with the FP Red turbo.
We’ve done 2 dyno runs; the first showed us 210hp I think @ 10psi, second run gave us 280hp @ 18psi. The max I’ve got the car running now is 20psi but there are problems. Please see below:
The boost doesn’t kick in until after 5k. If the car is pushed hard (i.e. red lining it then throws up the traction control sign and the dash display turns yellow with the traction control warning light, which stays on until you restart the computer.)
When the car goes to safe mode all boost is lost and the engine sounds bad at idle. The rpm needle keeps on jumping between 1-2k and the exhaust keeps spluttering as if I was on the gas revving it to 2k and then back to idle.
So any ideas what I could do to get the stock ECU remapped? Or have we fitted something wrong since the turbo only kicks in at 5k? My tuner told me it could be the turbo actuator and suggested I change it to an HKS one.
Contact Cobb, might be able to help you, not a true tune, but they may be able to send you a map as well as an accessport that will work with the vehicle and its current setup.
Last edited by HR2L; Sep 25, 2009 at 01:27 PM.