i think birds just like to poop on bright cars. i need to post more pics of the bird poop massacre that happened on the hubs red evo. he parked right under those electric posts wire (whatever you call it) and all the birds sat and splattered all over his car. when he got home he was pissed. so funny.

 

I had the same problem. Usually I try to Zaino a new car as soon as I get it, but I was forced to wait a few weeks with mine and sure enough a bird crapped on the spoiler before I could protect it. In the past, I have never had a problem with bird crap. At most, I would have to break out the clay bar. This time, I had to go as far as to get the buffer with the strongest polish and the strongest pad. It took about 15 minutes of buffing to get it out. I've never seen anything like it. I'm not sure if I can blame the Mitsubishi paint or the lack of Zaino for making the difference.

 

Mits paint jobs suck! Thats all you have to say. I have a old jeep and i barely wash it and it collects bird crap all the time. But when i was it you can never tell where the bird crapped at. On the other hand, my X will have bird crap on it for 2 hours and it will stain the paint. I put a nice coat of cleaner wax on then a different kind of wax on with (both with a buffer) and it makes the crap stain alot less noticeable until the wax wears off.

 

Try using something stronger. Like I said, I had to use the strongest polish I had (Menzerna Super Intensive Polish) with the strongest pad (purple wool pad).

 

Interestingly enough, Zaino sealants aren't every good at protecting against bird crap. It's the most common complaint with the product, other than noobs being frightened by the process. Zaino does provide a very slick surface that allows the crap to be removed with greater ease, but a commonly available OTC Carnauba wax offers better protection against bird droppings.

Both of you may want to stop by the detailing forum.

 

I have had very good luck with it blocking contaminents as well as rock chips. The biggest problem I've had with it is with water spots which I know a lot of people complain about. It seems like it allows water to get through and then not escape.

My only problem with wax is the frequency that it needs to be re-applied, especially in the Nevada heat.

 

What would you have recommended? I started with quick detail spray, nothing. Then clay bar. Then scratch remover. Then Menzerna super intensive by hand. Then with an orange pad on a low setting. Then finally with a purple wool pad on a high setting.

 

Don't get me wrong, I love Z2p and use it all the time. I completely understand what you're saying about a 'nuba's lack of durability. There are other sealants, like Duragloss 105, that offer superior durability and protection, coupled with extreme ease of use. FWIW, Zaino will bond to 105, and vice versa. There are other products, too, that fit the bill, but there aren't many that can improve or match Zaino's durability. DG105 is one, as are Finish Kare 1000P, Klasse Sealant Glaze (can be a PITA), and Collinite 476 and 915.

The process makes sense. Folks may want to note how you tried the most gentle approach first. Let me ask you, what size pads are you using? Your buffer is a PC, correct?

 

I bought the Menzerna/Porter Cable Ceramic Bundle from autogeek. All but the wool pad is 5.5", the wool pad is 6.5"

http://www.autogeek.net/pc7424-menze...ramic-kit.html

 

I was asking about the pads, because wool and SIP is a very aggressive combo, especially for our relatively soft paint.

As I'm sure you know, Menzerna polishes need to be broken down. This requires heat and friction. The PC, although a very useful tool, cannot break down the polish easily with a bigger pad. A smaller pad, like a 4", works a lot better with Menzerna and a PC. In essence, the tool isn't working the polish well due to the enlarged surface area of the pad. Menzerna polishes work great with a rotary and a Flex DA with virtually any pad. The PC needs a more specialized approach.

Have you heard of the KBM (Kevin Brown Method)? It involves a PC and Meguiars 105/205 polishes with non-diminishing abrasives. Unlike Menzerna polishes. 105/205 don't need to be broken down. The longer they're worked, the more pressure, the more they cut. In the last couple of years, these products almost revolutionized PC use. It's a very simple and effective process. Run a quick search on Autopia.

Getting back to the bird crap, I imagine it etched itself into the paint, given the need for polish. As a first step, at the risk of stating the obvious, I'd suggest using a LSP that offers better protection. This way, you'll have time to take care of the mess before it damages the finish. If you do need to polish, I'd start with KBM and a white pad with M205. M205 is a fine polish typically use for finishing, swirl removal, and other light tasks. Used per KBM, I bet it would take out the etching. If not, white pad with M105 per KBM. I think you'd be surprised by the effectiveness of the process. To give an idea, polishing with KBM takes 1/4-1/2 the time of a traditional polish with less risk of damage to the paint. Like I said, run a quick search on Autopia or Truthindetailing for examples of the process. Youtube may have some videos, as well.

 

This thread is awesome! This guy speaks the truth, i usually distance myself from other parked vehicles and always wondered why my car got hit with poop showers.. haha

 

Now if only bird crap were the ONLY problem with the Evo paint...

 

scratch x 2.0 did the trick for me...doesn't look like it came back either..pretty good stuff and its cheap

 

I've had 2 professional shops (dealer and a detailer) try to remove a spot left on my RR X. I tried various compounds myself. Nothing. The only change was that the dealer added a nick to the paint that wasn't affected, then denied me when I asked about paint warranty =/

The worst part: I got the bird crap on my car WHILE IT WAS IN MY GARAGE! Dead of winter, a bird gets into my basement and craps on my car. FML